Patcon

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Yup, brighter is better!

I have one but everyone that I have quoted it to, has balked at the shipping. They are not cheap to package and ship because of the size

@nix240z

Of course you would do better than them! One of the really exceptional people at this has apparently retired several years ago. I know of only 2 companies still offering these services. Don't know on cost yet.

I am not sure that 12mm square is small enough to keep them out. If they can get they're head through then they can get in.

http://www.brakecylinder.com/ Some good links here FAQ's http://www.brakecylinder.com/BrakeFAQ.htm#whysleeve Calling the captain @Captain Obvious How about a side business in your spare time? ?

Don't know on cost http://www.karpspb.com/sleeving.htm

I know many older more rare cars have very limited availability for parts. When they have a bad master cylinder, caliper or wheel cylinder there is no replacement available. So there are specialty restorers who can sleeve these with SS sleeves. Then new rubber seals and you're good to good for a very long time. I have a number of master cylinders that could be refurb'ed. Does anyone know of a source for small diameter SS sleeves?

That starts to make restoring and sleeving the old units I have laying around make sense

These should be the same on all S30 chassis's A donor is the best bet

The knuckles have a milled area that fits up into the bottom of the strut They can be really difficult to separate. There is also a small O-ring that goes in there to keep water out of that joint. If you are just replacing the strut insert, it can be done without removing the strut from the car. If you really want to separate them, then it will have to be driven down with some force, which is going to stress the ball joints or you could try to drive a painters 5-way in between the parts.

Ouch!!!

You are missing some metal there. There are some metal cups that are welded to each side of that mount that the bushings fit into

Good you figured it out.

Can you post up a couple of pictures of what you have and the bolts you have removed

Bayarea Don't get the idea to weld the roof joint up solid. The car needs to flex some and the designers selected this area to flex. If you make it too ridgid you could crack the A pillars or some other area on the car!

I suspect the perches need to be indexed too. Just because it's "Obvious"...

Make sure the chassis ground above the tank is clean and protected

You do have to be careful. I would bang or strike the glass. Firm even pressure and pull the cord. If you use too much pressure the cord can damage the seal. The dangerous areas are getting around the corners. Try to not stress or twist the windshield

Wondering why you want to make certain changes? Fuel cell? Push rod rear suspension? Tubular front end?

I'm glad you feel lighter now! I won't tell anybody

Wow! That's strong

That's too bad

S30 EFI is not my forte. I know enough to be dangerous. I know resistance and corrosion seem to cause 60+% of the issues we see come across the forum. The other portion seems to be component failure and PO's "fixes"