Patcon

The black plastic hex nut under the front frame rail is just being stored there. It could be move to the top side of the rail like the other two to make the seat slant more. The metal nut on the under side of the seat bracket is what tightens the seat down. the rear seat studs are the same way. The metal nuts in the rear can be difficult to access! they are way up under the cupped seat brackets. Remove the black hex nuts to tighten the metal nuts. then replace them on the studs so they don't get lost!

I used color chips epoxy and clear coat for my shop floor. It is resistant to almost all thinners. I had some gasoline varnish stain it in one area when it sat for several years. I have scratched it in places. Like dragging a transmission. The most important issue is getting the concrete clean, acid etching properly and neutralizing really, really well. Cody has also burned some areas from welding on the floor but if the floor isn't abused, like my floor, I believe it would hold up really well. The color chips epoxy is a high solids epoxy and the clear coat seals the color chips in so the floor is smoother.

What about grinding the punches, so they are narrower?

When I remove data plates, I put them in a ziplock and store them with my car titles in our firebox

Also the Z is as fast or faster 0-60 than all the 308's other than the Quattrovalvole. It's also cheaper to pick up some horsepower than a Ferrari would be. For a little more than a timing belt service you can get a Rebello or Datsun Spirit motor!

The Lotus is too small and I won't fit The Ford GT is too expensive to insure or to leave in a parking lot the Lancia would be expensive to maintain too. I want a car I can actually park somewhere and not feel like it's going to be gone or trashed when I get back. At one point Ferrari 328's were not unreasonable but where can you park it and leave it? You can't... if you go out for a drive you have to bring it home or park it somewhere safe.

The parts are cheaper for sure and no dread about timing belt grenades

What he said

Double check that you have no slippage by trying to accelerate hard in a high gear from a low rpm. It is possible to end up in a situation where the clutch doesn't fully engage (ie get full pressure)

I guess most of my question was just based on the impression that Sean(?) makes some very nice exhaust parts. I don't necessarily consider it a move backwards, but was looking for the impetus

Why did you go back to the stock manifold?

Happy Birthday @Zup

Very few experts still alive for these AFM's. Stick with it and these guys will help you get it sorted. Even some of the refurb'd AFM's run rich. Your problem is solvable. Just need to have confidence in the test results. Confirming your gauge is good is probably a good move.

You could drain some fuel out of the tank and see if it is overly red

I hate to add a cook to the kitchen but is it possible the fuel rail has an internal restriction? I don't remember the vehicle history, but if there were a restriction near the return port that would keep fuel pressure high through all these test. Varnish, rust, contaminant...

It's back https://www.copart.com/lot/30378089 74 in Detroit https://www.copart.com/lot/31371779 78 in Albuquerque https://www.copart.com/lot/32148619 77 in Reno https://www.copart.com/lot/30360899

That looks good. A very hard part to duplicate. Imagine what repops would cost if they were available?

I bet you can feel that!

Yeah, I was going to play along. I suspected you were too low.

You could loosen the bushings bolts on the front control arms and see if it will settle some and then retorque them.

That's a big improvement!! Be sure and update in a year or so on how it's holding up.

Has the car been moved enough to settle the suspension? When you first set them down they tend to sit like this

I might have a used one but would have to look

Zed is correct, only one inlet

I have a NOS 22670-F5101 sitting in front of me if you are interested. I believe it is what you are looking for but confirm that