Patcon

You need to see if the booster will hold a vacuum. A vacuum gauge will be needed to accomplish this. Many fuel pressure gauges will also measure vacuum. It would be easiest to measure on an idling car. Then engine acts as the air pump. Plumb the vacuum gauge between the booster (the black thing on the firewall) and the check valve. Run the car, pull vacuum down and cut the car off. See if the vacuum holds or drops slowly. When master cylinders look like this, they have generally already leaked into the booster. The brake fluid destroys the diaphragm in the booster making it tear. Reconditioned boosters are available from vendors.

I like those washer sprayers. They look great. Are they NOS?

When I reworked a 5 speed recently that seal was so hardened we thought it might be metal or plastic. I ordered one and was surprised at supple it was compared to what was there

Depends on the kids. My two oldest have seen us sacrifice for them their whole lives and they get it. The younger ones have had it easier and it is harder to convince them that they have it pretty good. Still trying...

I totally understand that!

@240Znomad Kudos to you!!!

"deleted by author" 9hours later

I went looking there and can't figure out how you post needs and parts? Just in the timeline or somewhere else?

Found this by browsing dpangt on facebook https://dpangt.com/2016/10/10/railroad-z/?fbclid=IwAR2xjN7w5_CepcvUnatPyOJrkFhAnniWDrxd5InSt3hGc40a_4q3VNy7nTM This guys done ok with his car ? @madkaw BTW I hope you got all healed up!

I had to Google that to figure it out!

You mentioned fuel and I don't wan to muddy things up but you might consider a bottle of fuel treatment in case you got some water in the last fill up. With the help you already have, you should be able to get this sorted. Just keep trying what they ask and feed the results back.

Yeah, that can happen. They get rusty and then they self demolish. You could get by on points for a while but the electronic distributor is better and hotter. You would need to add the ballast resistor back in with the right coil if you want the points to last. Congrats on getting it to run!

Excellent

They will probably have one at your local big box parts store too.

I bought the kit from Harmon and did it myself. I don't think I would have an issue with him doing it for me. I think he will be substantially cheaper than White Post

That all makes sense. I have always found it a pain to get the input shaft engaged so I avoid that process if possible.

I might have a spare. I would need to look around some

What drove the choice to mate the engine to the tranny in the car? It is so much easier to do out of the car but a little more challenging to place in the car as one piece

The doors look nice and straight

Oh, here too! Although I'm getting better. I'm slow but not terribly slow any more. It makes a person understand why this kind of work is so expensive in a shop, even with relatively low shop rates.

I thought so. On Hybridz I don't go by Patcon. The access in the door is limited but it can all be done with out too much hassle. You just have to know the proper sequence. Glad you got it fixed!

Which thread? Are you sure it's mine?

Be careful removing the door panel. It is easy to tear the mounts out of the backer panel. A good removal tool or a wide "5 way" helps to not damage the door panel. Wrap metal tools with a little tape to protect the paint. Getting the door latch out with the window frame in place can be difficult. I don't remember if it's possible or not. Someone else may chime in. Many times latches can be cleaned up and rehabbed to make them right. You will know more once it's out. Sometimes it's old hard grease that makes them inoperable.

I've determined, that's half the battle with metal work

That's a pretty good show. Hadn't heard of that before