Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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Yes MIG by leaning over into the car. Hard to see but I didn't get all burned up that way. Bought through JDM Car Parts but probably all produced from the same point -
So last weekend and early this week I went to the shop for a little while I stitched up the pocket Then dressed them down After trying the hinges again, I added some clearance at the gutter edge on both sides. After that I brushed on some zinc rich primer. A little seam sealer and it aught to be ready to reassemble. Hopefully I can get the hatch flush now. If not it will have to wait for another day. This was going to be my project this weekend, but I've been sick all week and I haven't gotten over the hump yet... I might make it to the shop for an hour or so tomorrow.
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Best looking Volvo there!
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Good for you! 😉
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Are you using a system like this? https://www.dustlessblasting.com/the-advantage
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If you've done other cars with sheet metal this thin you should be fine. If you been doing American vintage cars, they are a lot thicker
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If the metal gets too hot or overworked, it expands and becomes wavy. Basically ruined
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The front frame rails look really good! Be careful blasting, the metal is thin and easily oil canned
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Nope!!! 😉
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Don't dismantle without the FSM!! Only disassemble one at a time!
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I think he can get the car running if he cleans them up a little bit. If he finds tuning is an issue, he could rebuild them then. He does need to get the floats set properly though. It's my perception that the budget for this project is very limited...
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@siteunseen Where is Rossiz conversion thread?
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Gasoline in it's liquid form isn't flammable. The fumes are! Old gas even less so. One step at a time. Take the advise given and don't frustrate your help or it will dry up.
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The toughest part of doing the water pump is getting the old bolts out without breaking them. Some of them are long and skinny. A little corrosion makes them difficult to get out.
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You're last post sort of hits on this. Many of the things you read about this cars condition are probably not recent. There are many cars I see now that I would try to restore that I would have never considered before. The combination of available reproduction panels and the increased interest and value in these cars makes the old "basket case" a viable project.
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Let's get it to spark, then worry about plug order. Incorrect order won't damage anything.
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I believe my pedal box is from a manual. I rebuilt the booster but don't remember if there is adjustment somewhere else.
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This belongs in your other thread. It's best not to start a new thread for the same problem
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The brake light switch is there but I'm not touching it
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I was measuring the pedal height tonight. The clutch is right at 8"s but the brake is like 6 1/2". How is the brake pedal height established? I don't appear to have any threads left on the booster pushrod to the clevis.
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Lot's of turns there!! It can make you carsick. 😞 It's not real far from me.
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What about an orifice restriction like the factory used. You would need a visible fuel pressure gauge to verify and fine tune in real word conditions
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The car was originally automatic. So it wasn't there. I thought I would use panel bond too or maybe epoxy. It's never going to really get pulled on, so it aught to be fine. For the clutch pedal stop? No I just bead blasted it all and let it ride. It has a fresh coat of satin black on it now.
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I got the clutch master in today. I need to check pedal height... I went down to the parts yard and took a clutch pedal stopper off of "Rust in Pieces" \ There are locating dimples in the floor board to locate this part. You can see them from wheel well side. Short edge is the top My favorite tool for spots welds Bead blast Started welding up the hinge pocket
