Patcon

That is perfect!

Looks like detonantion damage in the combustion chambers. I wonder if that's what cracked the head. The crack and the detonation damage sort of does the head in. I don't even know if the crack could be fixed. The detonation damage and the coolant passage erosion could be, but would take lots of work. I would say that's done. I don't know if I've ever seen a head in that bad of shape that wasn't off a turbo car

You should look at Rebello's site and Datsun spirit's site for specs. either one will make plenty of power. Rebello is closer to you on the West coast

I may have one. I would have to look

PM me an address. I will send it to you for free.

@240260280 Maybe you could try hoovering a little, if you have time?

The large pits are actually outside the seal. I was working on building up the plate on the plunger and polishing it but then had to redo some of it. So I went with what I had. It is actually much smoother than it was originally. I would still be curious to know if the reman boosters can pass the spec

I guess I would start with the differences 4cyl versus 6? Less HP and torque? Shorter drive shaft, maybe? what others?

So i went back to the shop and did a little more work. There was a small leak in the mighty vac tube and one in the black line. I also found a check valve and clean it up and put it in line with the booster. If I clamp the mighty vac in the vise and work it fast I could get it to 15" of Hg. It would slowly bleed off at a rate about 3 times the FSM spec (.9" in 15 seconds). It would be curious to know if rebuilt boosters from other sources will hold the FSM spec. I suspect the old seal I used and the slight corrosion on the MC plunger are contributing to the bleed off. For now I will consider that a success. This was not the cleanest 7" booster I have. I may take another stab at it later but for now I'm moving on. @Captain Obvious You're up next...

I would also suspect reaction disc or bad/hard pads on the brakes. If you need a reaction disc and can't find one. I have one sitting on the bench right now.

So I messed with the booster some more today. It's only been a bout 6 months. So I reassembled it. It went really well with the new lever. Almost no effort needed. I used a mixture of old seals and new seals. The old seal that goes around the disc shaft on the passenger end of the booster was reused. I was unsure the new seal would go in or work properly. I also reuse the old bellows for that end. I just put enough pressure on it to get the space out between the cases This is locked So pleased with myself until I saw this on the bench So opened it back up and did it again The real "chapper" is it still won't build vacuum, at least not by hand. I blanked out the MC end with some sheet rubber and it wouldn't. so I wrapped a zip lock around the plunger side and it still wouldn't build vacuum. Now the mighty vac will build and hold vacuum it I pinch the vacuum line. So I am kicking around ideas Maybe the seals need to bed in and higher vacuum might help? Leaks around the perimeter of the case? I sort of doubt this because the edges were good and it's pretty compressed to get it to lock close Leaks in my testing setup? Not able to build enough vacuum, quick enough by hand? Leaks at the MC plunger side? Leaks at the passenger plunger side? I wondered if I could tap it into my S-10's vacuum booster with a gauge to see if I could get it to build and hold vacuum?

Off to paint jail On another note, is that flattened section behind the valve cover at the fuse box level supposed to be that way. It is hard to tell if that is a factory condition or not

Hard pedal or excessive pressure to stop the car?

I would still say that is a pretty good deal considering the car doesn't look like many of the "Fred Flinstone" vehicles I see for 2 or 3 times that

How old are the flexible lines?

You did good!

The spindle pin is designed to be tensioned against the bushings to make it all one piece. The serrations on the end of the stock bushings help to accomplish this. I believe the poly bushing have an inner sleeve that tries to duplicate the same thing. I also believe that is why the spindle pin seems t o be so soft and easily damaged by beating on it. As long as the spindle pin doesn't rock in the bore then I would think it should be fine. I worked on mine until I could push them in by hand. I wouldn't want them any tighter than I could tap them in with a rubber mallet. They were snug but not tight and fairly easy to rotate in place.

As the every day public sees more and more articles about the value of Z cars, the odds of finding a really cheap one goes down exponentially. I am afraid those days are pretty much gone. The definition of a really cheap Z car is changing sort of like the value of a "cheap" ferrari

I know!!! Sugar them up and send them home. a little pay back mixed in with the fun is always good

Shouldn't a fuseable link have killed the striped white that melted?

The chassis looks done and painted and that is more than half the battle! I totally understand the large family issues. I have 5 and that is partly why my car is still unfinished after so many years. A lot of this stuff you can learn and you could pass those skills on to your kids. Most of what your car needs is reassembly. If money isn't a problem find someone to put it together and give it back to you. Otherwise consider having some one reassemble the electrical and get it running and you could take it from there.

That looks like fun! My oldest got married last year so this might not be too far away for me! I guess I should hurry up and get the car finished so we have something to clean!

How recent was that?

I totally agree and I appreciate your effort in providing parts like this at Banzai. I also have to balance parts I need versus available cash to purchase them. Also being able to reproduce some of these thngs allows me to make hoses or parts for other projects, not just Z projects, but projects where these parts are not even available. It's a balancing act for me. A limited amount of money needs to be spread over the car. I need bumpers and don't want to try to make them. I also need hoses, but I "might" could make them if I have the raw material. The reproduction hoses actually cost more than the bumpers. When I need a windshield washer bag or a data tag, I would call you because it doesn't make sense to try to make one. Unfortunately these limitations is the world I live in