Patcon

So yesterday Cody and I started building an exhaust for his car. We're running 2 1/2" stainless. No one really offers an exhaust for a 510 wagon Running V Bands at the end of the header. We got this much of the pipe built. I need to order a muffler now. The muffler is actually up under the back seat. It's not at the back of the car. The plan is to tack up the exhaust and then take it to someone else to TIG it all up

2 minutes!! That's not very long!

If I had a set of early door lights, I guarantee they would be on my car!! 🙂

A picture might help

@SteveJ Care to comment on your production? 😉

The door lights were available new but the few I have seen show up in recent years have been quite expensive. I believe they were more likely to show up in the Japanese domestic market

I was more concerned about the fill levels in all the branch circuits. One piece of 12/2 "fills" a ½" conduit I believe. The NEC isn't my forte'

I am wondering if the distributor is grounding

The way you've got them stacked, it shouldn't matter. Post a picture of the starter connections and where they go. Also the ground at the firewall near the battery

Your 6/3 should be fine. I would run it all the way to the panel. I don't know if that's totally proper but the extra joint just gives a place for higher resistance, corrosion or problems I would run 2 gnd rods. They sell a clamp that attached the ground wire to the rods It's a shame you are so far ahead of me. I really think your going to be overfilled on that conduit size... Will it matter? Probably not. Would it pass? I doubt it

It is not strictly legal to run NM cable in conduit and it doesn't become legal if you strip the jacket. MC cable is a good option if you're gonna run conduit. For your feed. It really needs to be 6/3 plus a ground. I would pull it as THHN in a 2 or 2½ conduit continuous. Because the garage is a subpanel, I'm assuming, it needs a separate neutral and ground. I believe the ground can be derated to something smaller. Needs disconnects on both ends. You could alternatively go with aluminum direct burial cable but you will have to upsize to go to AL. I'm not sure I covered everything. 30A is 10ga 20A is 12ga 15A is 14ga

A wibeband o² sensor might help determine whether it's fuel related

I did a quick check on the quarter glass. They seem like they'll be pretty tight. I'm sure soapy water will help but I'm a good 1/4" or more from lining up

Yes, you found a good thread for that. I also have seen that if the early hinges get seized at all those little blades just fold up when you try to close the door.

Yes, that too. The pedal stop. I also need to do that after the recent thread pointed that out

I would unplug the bulb and test for voltage at the socket. If there's good voltage its probably the bulb. If there's no voltage it's somewhere else.

Some cars have proven to be sensitive to the tach being missing but not necessarily all of them. It's a little bit of a mystery. You also need to understand how the guys on the forum help. We don't like to assume or overlook the obvious. So you need to be very descriptive of your procedures. We will get a solution faster that way. 🙂

Love the helpers! My first was born about 6 weeks ago. I'm looking forward to shop time with him in a few years! You have the early style door hinges. They can be hard to repair and hard to find. You're missing the spring on at least one of them...

So your car started life as an automatic. I had to add that tab when I was doing body work. I will have to look closer at my shifter hole to see what's there

Always test before replacing! That's true here much less in central America where parts aren't as plentiful! Im glad you found it! 😁

I haven't, I figure it just needs to be close to water tight. A little seam sealer will take care of the rest This is my plan. We'll see...

The tab I referred to in my post was also absent on automatic cars. That why I asked. You might want to check that too.

Slow down... No the alternator is not needed for short duration running if the battery is fully charged. Don't throw parts at it. That's expensive and the person before you probably tried the same. Some one will post up a diagram of the early ignition system for you to check off of. Do you two disconnected wires go into the dizzy?

Is there a tab in the tunnel that mounts the body side of the clutch slave cylinder fluid line?

Yes, there is a lot going on right there. One of the main issues is similar at the rockers. To work on the inner pieces properly you have to "peel the onion" and take the overlapping panels out of the way. Increasing the work dramatically! That's alot of spot weld drilling to even get a fairly small panel off.