Patcon

It's unfortunate that internet searches don't bring some of these options up. I assume because it has a ".CO" domain it doesn't come up in my searches. It's not like we can't ship anything worldwide in a few days!!!

I had another quandary and wanted some opinions: Option #1: I currently have Maxima rear brake calipers on the rear with disc rotors (unknown make and year). The calipers need rebuilding and I have the kits. If I were going to keep them, I would have them powder coated first. About $50 -$70 each. I will also need to adjust the parking brake location some for clearance issues. The main concern being that I rebuild them and they still don't operate properly. Which means I spent money to make them pretty but they're useless... Option #2: Go with the 240sx caliper which appears to have a better parking brake geometry and increased availability. But I will at a minimum need pads, brackets, parking brake brackets, possibly an Ebrake cable and possibly rotors. I would also have to cut my maxima adapter plates off the rear hub. The design I have is an older design and requires removing the stub axle for install. That's not happening again! $300-400 with no suprises Option #3: Go with a Wilwood dual caliper rear brake system and eventually upgrade the fronts to Wilwoods. $1400 just for the rears. Which is a tough thing right now with 3 kids in college... Thoughts?

I loosened these up and the cylinder is very neutral. I have a little too much slop in the linkage due to clevis wear, but fine for now. But the just is the linkage isn't causing my no bleed issue

So here is the 90-94 240sx caliper beside the maxima caliper (86-87 I believe) Offset to the rotor is different. Bolt spacing appears to be the same. Parking brake cable comes off at a different angle, which probably works better for fitment and clearnace. Bleed port at a slightly different angle and the back of the Maxima is canted at an angle where the 240sx caliper appears more square

So sorry for that! I had real concerns about that after you installed it without the trim, but I was hoping you would be successful. The last few things I have attempted in the shop have been very frustrating. So I feel your pain. You are making great progress though and it's a beautiful car! Just a little more and you'll be ready for Zcon 2025

When I originally messed with the caliper, I did crack the bleeder but no fluid came out. That's why I pulled it off the car. Yes, a similar style of caliper, very complicated inside! I had a time figuring out how to get it apart. That seal on the end of that part inside the piston can make it difficult to pull out. There are really no Youtube videos about rebuilding this type of integral parking brake caliper available online. So I'm feeling my way along. I do have rebuild kits. I may have the rears powder coated while I'm redoing them. I assume I need to do that while they are all apart.

I'm gonna try to rebuild this caliper first before I try to source replacements. I ordered a brake system pressure gauge from Amazon. It comes with multiple bleed screw adapters. Should be interesting...

I looked at Rockauto and they had strange results. They show Raybestos available for L&R for 86 and 87 with a one day delay. The 1988, they only show a right rear available. If I have to go down this road, I can but I have found many times when I try to place the order they are not actually available. I'll play it by ear. Thanks for your help Steve!

Im going with D A A or B A A

Got the manifold gasket surface cleaned up I don't know what gasket this is Sean sent but I like the way it looks! Nice and thick

It looks like 1988 only?

Yes What year were those for?

I believe it should shift rearward. I think it should be in the track at the rear of the glass by the time it's that far up. The rear felt dragging on it will make it not tilt forward so much.

@SteveJ

The reverse bleeding is interesting

I had read your posts and figured that's what I'd have to do. Thanks for the reminder

That'll be a valuable car when it's done, even in this soft market!

Any ideas on how to check for trapped pressure in the braking system? Clutch master...

There are like five different throw out bearing collars with different stack heights. Lots of variables. Best practice is to dry stack the pressure plate, bearing and collar on the bench and measure the new parts for stack height.

I am using a later master cylinder that I believe is a 280zx unit. So I shouldn't have the check valves then... Still can't get the clutch to bleed. Not manually, not by leaving it open and not with the vacuum bleeder. I guess I will have to pull it out and diagnose it.

Not totally sure. I've had them for a decade at least. Is there a way to tell from the parts? When I searched, I searched based off of the previous swap recommendations for Maxima year

So I looked at the Maxima caliper I torn down a month or so ago. It apparently flash rusted in my shop when my dehumidifier quit at some point. I doubt it is salvageable... So I am looking at options for how I'm going to deal with brakes. But I have a question. I was having trouble with the rear calipers not letting go all the way after being applied. I remember something about a check valve in the rear brake circuit to keep the shoes close to the drums. Is that correct? Where is it located? Is it the brass junction under the left rear of the car where the brake lines tee off? Is that why ZCardepot offers this? https://zcardepot.com/collections/brakes/products/copy-of-metric-inverted-flare-t-fitting-m10-brake-line-connector#

Does anyone know if the 240SX and Maxima rear brake caliper used for rear disc conversion have the same bolt patterns and offsets? I had one of my Maxima rear calipers torn down in the shop. My dehumidifier went out during that time and it's got a good bit of rust in the bore. The Maxima calipers are not available anywhere. So was wondering if the 240SX caliper was a direct replacement?

I think I found SS screws for the body to lens

There is a shop in spartanburg that moght do it. Kimbrells paint and auto. They do mostly American iron but I have seen some European stuff there on occasion. You could also reach out to Diseazed and see if he has someone in Virginia that could help