Patcon

That distributor looks like a good option " 3.0 ohm coil required with ballast resistor delete"

I agree, although new doesn't always mean good. I would start with the dizzy. I think if the coil was the problem then it would be more even across all the cylinders. Although the lastest fouling could indicate a broader problem.

Post a link to the distributor not a screen shot He has tested leads, caps plugs, pretty much everything. The only thing he hasn't done is remove the pertronix from the system. You could just replace the dizzy and see if that fixes the problem. If not then plug wires and coil last...

No replace the ignition with a totally different setup from the dizzy & coil to the plug wires

You used PayPal but how did you pay PayPal? Debit card? Bank account? Credit card?

Good for him! That was a good price.

Options: You could source another manifold and galley - not too hard to install Replacing the galley is very difficult unless you have an oxy/acetylene setup. They basically weld themselves into the exhaust manifold over time Remove the manifold and cut the galley and seal up the holes. I did this 30 years ago with mixed results Or you could go all bling and order one of Sean's stainless exhaust systems. Header all the way out... You shouldn't damage the motor with the exhaust leak but you can melt stuff from the heat of the leak blowing on things under the hood.

That's probably a good price for NOS door panels

I don't mind the clear lens and it came from a friend. So it will be proudly displayed in the engine bay. 😉

Is the car hard to start when it's cold?? If not, then there's not a problem!! If it's not broken, don't break it!

So I finally got back into the shop this weekend. A while back I was working on reworking some marker lights. Jim Arnett watched me struggle along with that for a while before he said "I have a nice set of running lights all redone if you're interested?" So yes, I'm interested! Jim does nice work and I got them in a week or so ago. I put the rears on yesterday and a engine room light that also came from him. I also got a new shift boot and rubber boot for the end of the transmission I also figured out how to get the maxima calipers apart There is a clip way down inside you need to get out I bought these snap right pliers. They work really good Needs some clean up Rebuild kits come in on Monday

That looks great!

What are doing about the bleed screw?

New cam, I would expect new or reconditioned rocker arms. Wipe pattern will have to be checked and that might require new lash pads...

I have the same alligatoring. I hadn't decided if I was going to try to fix it. This seems like a good solution

If it were mine I would swap out the entire ignition system. Coil and distributor with no pertronix

You still running the pertronix???

I calculated 1.5" exhaust versus 2.5. I'm not sure if the stock exhaust is 1.25 or 1.5"

I think the spacer goes between the hub and the rotor. So it would shift the rotor inboard

So more exhaust work last weekend I can't load all the images I want to. I get an unknown server error -200 @Mike Here are the one's that did load Old next to new We couldn't get the exhaust back under the car once it was tacked up. So we cut it here and will add another Vband. It pretty much all tacked up up. Once we verify that, we will ship off the header for jet coating. The cross section on the new exhaust is 315% bigger then the stock exhaust (1.25" vs 2.5"). It'll probably be rowdy but Cody will like that

Man I hope mines right. I don't want to have to pull it back out!

Steve's website very often shows out of stock but he will make them on order. All of his parts are hand made here in the US

Bearings are usually non ferrous. I agree, debris in the pan at 800 miles isn't a good sign. I would change the oil on a shorter interval for the next couple of changes and cut the oil filter open too to see if the engine continues to make debris. Maybe it was just an anomily

Did you all read all the comments? BaT threatened the seller with a site ban if they don't close the deal. BaT evidently has the right to add the difference if a car gets close to reserve...

You could shorten the port by an 1/8"