Patcon

I believe the speedo end is just a square end on the cable. If it pulls through easy, it should go back just as easy. Now when it gets to the top you will have to rotate it to get it into the the speedo drive hole. As long as the inner cable comes out at close to the right angle it all aught to go right back together, Worst case you have to remove the cable from the speedo and then reattach by feel. It's do-able...

The issue could be anywhere in the sheath. Yes I believe you can pull the drive cable all the way out towards the transmission end. Getting it back in and all engaged might be a trick though. IDK

I am sure I will have to do this. This is something I overlooked until your thread came up.

Yes, I figured out the same thing about the firewall pad myself. You did good getting the original vinyl back in. Mine wasn't in good enough shape to consider

I agree! That car's got pretty much all the options I would want. Will be interesting how high it goes...

Pictures?

I guess the wider rubber might help with ultimate traction as far as throwing the car around bur definitely not enough horsepower to break those loose. I have mixed feelings about wheel flairs but I think I would prefer flares to the work they put in to widen the car.

Are you going to list it on BaT? If you do be sure and post up a link. Will be fun to see how it does

Yes, I agree. That was one of my big dislikes. I am also not sure about the rear edge of the door, but I think I do like the door going to the bottom of the rocker panel

That's got some big rubber under it! 2000 hours at a minimum $50 an hour. $150-200k in the car. I like some of the metal work. Some I don't...

Yes, I will look through it

Silvers are notoriously difficult to match. He has a good eye. It looks much better without the molding!

You're killing me! 😉

They sell a product called mold control at home depot. You could spray that area before you cover it up to try to prevent mold growth. Limiting moisture will help a lot too.

The rubber insulators are square pads of rubber glued to the top of the tank to prevent it rubbing against the car body. If you used 2 gallons in just testing then the car is running really rich. Running better with vacuum leaks, which leans the mixture would make sense. EFI is not my forte. Maybe someone can chime in and tell you what areas need Inspection to see what the PO messed with to make it run with all those leaks. Also the connections at the thermostat housing are important. If they get reversed it will be really rich. An AFR gauge would still be really useful

Looks like the same glass I just put in Lily

Thats an interesting collection of names you've got there! 😉

The Fpr is used to modulate fuel pressure using engine vacuum. With the engine off the fpr is basically inoperative. You should get the max pressure of the system, roughly 36, IIRC

Fpr is inoperative when the vehicle is off. I think I would start at the tank. You could rig up a temporary source of fuel instead of the tank. If the fuel pressure comes up, there is a problem in the tank

I'm not totally sure, but I think there are actually a bunch of adjustments available on flat tops which is what makes them hard to get tuned properly.

I've never gotten to where I like those electrical connectors. I still think a wire nut is a better joint. They are fast though. Those paper wasps would have been fun if it had been warm!!

I don't know if the seals I have are like that or not. I did reassemble one window already. I will try to look next time I'm in the shop.

I agree, a complete engine is a totally different price point

Do you have a speed square? Like carpenters use? You could set it against the face of the hub and see if the studs are coming through square to the hub face. Use the speed square to adjust the studs until they're close to square. Checking with the wheel as you go along. See if the shoulders are seated all the way on both sides. Measure the hub thickness both sides. Measure how much stud sticks out on both sides. Then you will be able to calculate if your studs are the same length on both wheels. Don't assume... Another thought, set the speed square across the face of the hub to see if it's flat. Maybe the hub face is bent slightly making the stud point in the wrong direction

I think there are a lot more people out there that would pony up $10,000 for this head than most realize. The cheap seats at the super bowl were $9000!!! It was full of people and this head will last a lot longer than the Super bowl! When you look at the cost to build an L motor up to this power level of $12-14,000 then this head isn't out of line. This head would also make it easier to build that kind of power on your own versus relying on a engine shop to port and polish a P90 head. I guess one of my questions is, would the new head only cost $10,000? Maybe it will be $20,000? They will still sell a good many but it will push it out of reach for many. I hope they make it and I hope it's quasi affordable.