Patcon

I wouldn't want to split the transmission in the car. I would rather have the whole unit on the bench

Have you driven it yet with the new setup?

The $300k BaT car is a good place to look. It's pretty original

There is a spring upgrade, Japanese I believe, for coil overs that allows you to run softer feeling springs than their effective rate. A good solution to prevent harshness. I can't remember the name currently

Yeah, I'd be hot! 😡

I agree, I wouldn't touch it

I would think BaT with a healthy reserve. I wouldn't consider a no reserve auction, too easy to lose it cheap.

Well that's no fun!

I believe they're in North Carolina and Oklahoma. My last header was done in OK

I did this Z Car Depot IncCarburetor Return Spring Bracket Plate Custom 240ZStainless steel plate that mounts under the intake for attaching the carburetor return springs on Datsun 240Z. This plate bolts to the original intake and allows for 2 spring clips but offers mini...I also do not have coated headers. That may end up being an issue but I will deal with later if it is

Probably a lot more info at hybrid Z Zedhead or Grannyknot are probably more familiar with how to find it there

Already $1800. I'm surprised it's that high considering it's been sitting and you really don't know what you've got until you take it apart. Is the compression ratio a turbo level compression ration?

You could look at the RT mount and customize the diff angle

That was nice of him to "comp" you

Early cars have an external spring

That's pretty cool! \What kind of pressure will it hold?

So in the last pic, the part with rivet, lets call it the "hook". It is touching a bar just to the right. We'll call it the "drum catch". When the drum in the center w the spring rotates the "drum catch" locks into the ratchets on the drum. When it does that the "drum catch" moves down slightly. Then the "hook", which is the lock mechanism, can move over to prevent the "drum catch" from unlatching. I would make you some pictures but all my locks are at the platers. I just recently studied this mechanism as I went through mine and was working on refurbishment

The doors will not lock unless the door latch is latched. In other words they won't lock unless the door is shut or you manually rotate the door latch to the locked position

Excellent!! Im hoping I'm only a couple of weeks behind you

I would use Seals all on the inside of the connections. I once used it on a Ford fuel tank that had small perforations in it. Worked great!

That will soften them nicely but it's not a long term solution. Mine solidified again after a month or so... :( Steve Nixon makes replacements

Perfect, thanks Ernest

If I were looking for vibration: Wheels Driveshaft Halfshafts - I would have these balanced Stub axle runout I also agree with Zed about the reason for the diff shift. That would be my first thing to do.

Can somebody provide a photo of this area up under the passenger side of the dash so I can see how this bundle of stuff is supposed to look?

You might have to use some sealant on the inside. I believe "Seal-all" would be my first choice https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380113-Adhesive-2-Ounce/dp/B0015AE0AU/ref=asc_df_B0015AE0AU?mcid=73fbe515071334428dde54fff0cb8519&hvocijid=2708339363523471354-B0015AE0AU-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2708339363523471354&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010452&hvtargid=pla-2281435177578&psc=1