Patcon

The fit is snug but it will go in. Be mindful there is a front and back side to the bushing. Also the bushings need to be torqued with load on the car! If you do it with the car unloaded the car will sit higher.

Thanks so much! That's exactly what I needed!!

Page 4 Not too far in, page #4...besides there's lot's of interesting info in those pages.

I can't image that the intake track is going to create much more vacuum than that. Disappointing the valve doesn't close under those vacuum conditions. Maybe shoot some PB blaster into it while under vacuum? If you can see the spring try to pry it gently to see if you can get it unstuck? On second look, there is a spring under the valve (the 4 little circles). So the default position is "failed close". Intake vacuum creates low pressure on the under side of the diaphragm pulling it down and opening the valve. So it shouldn't pass air with no vacuum. Use a flashlight and look through the valve and see if you can determine the valve position

Yes, that sounds right. Do you have a way to apply vacuum to the little port?

Does the 70 car have a different antenna switch than this?

I believe they are still available new from Nissan. I'm sure I have the part number in my build thread but no idea what page it's on or how to search just one thread...

They do wear out. Mainly in the center where most of the driving is done. They can be adjusted but the results are unpredictable. It would have to be very worn for me to want to replace it

I know of no way to confirm bad valve seals. They get hard and fail to seal. Difficult to diagnose with them installed. I have never experimented with additives and think that's not a good idea except in emergencies

You will remove the heater controls or the back of the glovebox. Don't worry about tomorrow, today has enough worries of it's own! Deal with it if it happens...

Never mind I found it in your build thread

@inline6 Garrett, I don't remember, did you end up rekeying all your locks? Charles

Normally stack height is determined by which collar you have. There's like 5 options and having the right one makes all the difference. Sometimes people stack a wasker or too under the pivot to help. The pivot threads need to be sealed though. They are exposed to fluid on the backside.

That's good. You came up with a solution. Good for you!

I am getting close to being ready for tires. I have been looking at several options: 1. Kuhmo Ecsta PS31 215/55 R16 about $136 2. Continental Extreme contact DWS06 Plus 215/55 R16 about $151 3. Toyo R1R 225/50 R16 $181 (not available in the 215) As the title says, I am going to be running Rota RB's 16x7 with a +4 offset I am running Eibachs and am planning on an airdam up front. So no stock valence. I was thinking the 215's aught to clear the rear wheel arches. I really like the Toyo's but I am not sure they will clear and I don't want to deal with scrubbing right now. I might roll the fenders eventually but no time for it now. Questions: Is anyone running the 215 on a similar setup? Does it clear? Is the +4 enough to get the 225's to clear in the rear? Any preference for which of these 3 people like and why? Thanks, C I did read some other threads but they were for other wheels and I decided to not muddy up those threads

Yes, they do!

Thanks, the LEDs I have are Amber or Red to match the lens color at that location because I have been told the same thing

So I tore into one of the rear calipers today. They don't look good and I don't know how to get them apart. I'm also concerned if I get them apart I won't be able to get them back together. I'm going to see if O'Reillys can get me a pair. Here is a marker light after I used some silicone to reassemble them. I just left the squeeze out. It scrapes right off with a fingernail after it's dry. Today we worked on putting the ugly engine into Lily I separated the transmission yesterday and made sure the pressure plate wasn't rusted to the flywheel. It was a little crusty but I cleaned it up and Cody helped me get it back on the engine. It has a Centerforce clutch in it from the 90's probably!! The next step is cleaning the Ztherapy SU's that have been sitting for a decade or so.''

Here is the wiper motor cover after some Meguiars So I've been chipping away at front turn signals Here is the factory bulb end Got the terminals out of the connector and cut the ends off. I have Vintage connections pieces to put it back together Here are the new screws I have for the lenses One lens together Here is one pigtail done I found a whole box of LED's in the BrownZ when we pirated it. I bought them from SuperBrightLED's in 2012!!

You did great! I'm not looking forward to doing this. I'm also going back with leather, so I have no reference marks to work from...

I watched some videos on welding urethane bumpers. I may be able to weld it. We'll see... More challenges today that need to be overcome first

Thanks, Zed Head I thought I might of had it backwards. I had just woken up when I posted that...

So in the shop yesterday and today Still working on running lights. Pulling together the best parts. Buffing and washing Finally found the wiper motors. I haven't been able to find them. I knew I had at least 3 but I couldn't find them. So frustrating!! I looked through the shop several times. Shelley helped me today and we were very thorough. We found them right near the work bench almost under my feet. I hate the tunnel vision that comes with age! ;( So here is the wiper motor that came out of Lily It has a hard shell on it instead of a bag like this one The BrownZ also has the hard shell, so I believe that is correct. When Lily got a green repaint they painted the cover. It had a lot of paint on it. Put it in the bead blaster. It came out ok. Better than paint. I treated it with some Meguiars after this... I also worked on the air dam & the frame. I primed the frame the other day Looks like I bought it in 2011 !!! I measured some center marks Then I used some 3m Urethane and glued the frame in. Hopefully it holds. I haven't decided if I'm going to try to correct the wavy area. If it was TPO I would cut it and plastic weld it, but it's Urethane and I'm not sure I can repair the seam if I cut it... I also made up a wiper motor test switch based on SteveJ's instructions. I had to go back 20 pages in the thread to find it!! I didn't know of a good way to just search this thread. Some vintage connections and some scrap wire So of the 3 wiper motors I have, the one out of Lily is the only one that works. The others click but don't turn. The test switch is cool because the park feature and everything works! Thanks Steve! I also got the drivers seat in. At least for now. I'm hoping to bleed the brakes tomorrow Overall a good day in the shop...

If you're trying to deal with an over rich condition why don't you add resistance on the water temp wiring?

I own a number of BMW's and a couple of Fords. The newest is a 2015. Most are 2007 to 2011. I do have a couple of pretty decent scanners though and that helps alot. I also have a pretty big tool assortment and my son is a diesel mechanic and his tools make mine look like toys. When I defer work to the mechanic it is typically because of convenience of the odd time we get stumped. If we had a lift we would defer even less