Everything posted by Patcon
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MZR
I tried to find current pricing. The sport design was about $97,000 The evolution was starting in the $232,000 range. I suspect those numbers have gone up recently. I'm not a huge fan of the carbon fiber exterior. I have thoughts like bonding strength. Fatigue over time and how does the unit work as a whole. Layup orientation and weave. Ease of repair. Etc. I get there is some weight savings but is seems like a little more horsepower would overcome the excess weight easier than reskinning the car. Cody wants to build a crazy S30 RB powered car. I would think an RB powered MZR would be a good option if you stayed with the all metal car. I know they are working on an RB car. There would be a cost premium but even DIY it wouldn't be a cheap build. The MZR might also retain value better because of the name recognition
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75 280Z - 5 speed swap from 81 280ZX - any catches I should be aware of?
Thanks for the tip. Just ordered some. It's amazing how expensive so many of these items have gotten
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anti backfire valve
Valve adjustment would also be low hanging fruit
- MZR
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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
That's all great progress. The plating looks really good! In almost 40 years I don't think I've ever take the exhaust manifold/down pipe joint loose without breaking at least one of those studs.
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How to remove clutch pedal pin??
Take a picture of what you really have. I have never seen one welded in place
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I don't know. Maybe somebody with a more complete parts database will chime in. It would be nice to know but for now it appears to be an original harness in a car a month earlier than Lily. The brown z was my daily driver 30 years ago, so I should be able to get Lily going with the donations
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Can you bleed clutch without lifting car?
Yes, it can probably be done from the top. Easier with two people though. The clutch isn't as sensitive to air bubbles as the brakes are. Get most of the air out. Make sure you have good clutch lever movement. Make sure it changes gears properly once it's running.
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Fascinating, it looks like it's got a 9/70 manufacture date. The Exx50 makes me wonder if it was a small revision somehow?
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
So I need someone with the factory parts book to check something for me. I looked on car parts manual but they don't show a corresponding number for these dash harnesses. They are close to the early car dash numbers but not exactly the same. 24013-E4650 & 24013-4651
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I think I am going to take the ignition switch and combo switch all together since I know where that ignition key is 🙂 I have a 5 speed that I took out of the brown Z that will go into Lily. Haven't really ever taken the time to ID it
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I saw atleast one of those today. I will look tomorrow and check car parts manual. I was hoping the same thing based on the 140psi gauge. Although the cigarette lighter location makes me wonder. PS my daughter gets married next weekend in Ohio. I hope to have time to come visit shortly after that
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
So later dash in an early car? This is in the "Brown Z" Cody had suggested a great plan. Cannibalize the Brown Z for the dash harness I need and anything else so I can get Lily done for now. They are only a month apart. But I saw the dash and hazard label and then I started wondering what was what?
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
I like the spot weld cutters like this or this I do not like this style A little oil helps. Be careful with the bit corners, they are brittle and easily damaged. Constant pressure helps. The carbide or specialty coated ones last a lot longer. My tool of choice for spot welds is a die grinder with one of these That section of the frame is pretty stout. It's thicker than a lot of other areas of the car
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
I would drill out the spot welds if possible. I would think that would be the best method for the most invisible repair
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Ideally, you would remove the whole tower and replace it. Or you could just move the center mount of the shock tower and patch in the metal around it to make it look right
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
It would be pretty easy to make those shock towers stock again. Provided you know how to MIG. Just make sure you get the front end on level and square. A frame rack would be best for that
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Holes can be welded up...
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My 240z that's been sitting
Just the remember the float bowl hoses are unique. They are not standard fuel line. They are softer and more flexible
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Machine work on SU for roller bearings
So is the throttle shaft a custom part too?
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
I think the upper frame rail at the hood hinges is available as a repop. I don't think the front inner fender area at the radiator support is available but KF vintage might make it if asked
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1986 300zx detonation sensor question (running a 86 ecu on a 280zx turbo engine).
All of that is above my "paygrade" 😉
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73 240z won’t start. Have spark
@Zed Head you've done great. Very patient, very tenacious!
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73 240z won’t start. Have spark
I may be missing something but both cam lobes on #1 don't appear to be up in that picture...