Patcon

Was a frustrating day in the shop today! Can't work on the heater because I'm waiting on a valve. Can't install the fender because the weather strip I had for fender sealing panel is not thick enough. I also need to touch up the engine bay paint. Can't install the hatch because I am gluing the hatch boots in... on and on So I piddled some I did get the catch down stoppers in. They are available new from Nissan currently I found the bolts for the hatch but two are the wrong finish. So I will need to redo them. I did glue the hinge boots in. I used a black latex caulk. I didn't want to use anything more tenacious in case I need to get them out I pulled the dash out and was going to clean it up. Wow, is it rough!! I guess I will see about getting a new dash. Where is the best place to source the reproduction dashes? I had thought I would try repairing this one but I didn't realize it was totally broken through in a couple of places The real pisser of the day was the windshield!!! We had it most of the way in, up around the passenger top corner and up to the other top corner and I pushed on the lower passenger corner to seat it and broke it... Zcar depot has them but the freight quote was like $400+ I will call my local auto glass company and see if they can get one. I plan on seeing if they will install it too. We'll see what they say. Many times they won't guarantee they won't break it. I obviously can break them on my own... All in all, a wizz poor day in the shop!!

I got back the plating a few months ago and assembled 3 separate wiper transmission today. One is really good, one is ok and one is serviceable but not great. I bought a box of little felts from Amazon that somebody had linked too. I didn't enlarge the ID like what came off. I figured that would happen on it's own if needed. I also bought an assortment of: Metric 15-Sizes Round Wire C-Clips External Retaining Rings Assortment Kit;Round Wire Snap Rings for Shaft(Black 5mm-28mm） I used the 10mm ones on the worst transmission but the factory rings are almost 1mm wire and the replacements are much thinner. I someone needs to source some, I would look for 10mm Dia with a 1mm wire size. Assembly was the reverse of disassembly so I didn't document that. I did grease up the ends pretty well and used new rubber from 240zrubberparts.com

I was suggesting that both methods, features and VIN, might both be effective as a way to recognize the early cars from the later cars. Provided the features changed at #21,001...

I'm not sure they're mutually exclusive unless someone has a car after #21,001 with early car parts or a car before #21,001 without them...

I thought I would add here, for it to be all in one place. https://www.allmagautoparts.com/products/mini-cooper-led-door-courtesy-light-63319313574-f54-f55-f56-f57-f60 I have no idea what vehicle this one is https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fpreviews.123rf.com%2Fimages%2Fwestsib%2Fwestsib1801%2Fwestsib180100544%2F93535296-car-led-side-door-courtesy-lights.jpg&tbnid=msUtRCjSGweFVM&vet=10CGQQMyiUAWoXChMIgIiW-NOphAMVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAM..i&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.123rf.com%2Fphoto_93535296_car-led-side-door-courtesy-lights-.html&docid=eaV3t_OAB0773M&w=1300&h=863&q=led door courtesy light&client=firefox-b-1-d&ved=0CGQQMyiUAWoXChMIgIiW-NOphAMVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAM https://www.amazon.com/Bestview-Courtesy-Compatible-Forester-2010-2022/dp/B0BLWCS4NS https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstore.ijdmtoy.com%2Fcdn%2Fshop%2Fproducts%2Faudi-vw-led-door-lights-05_1000x667.jpg%3Fv%3D1695865358&tbnid=hX3c-Ulneh5r_M&vet=10CIIBEDMoiQJqFwoTCICIlvjTqYQDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE..i&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fstore.ijdmtoy.com%2Fproducts%2Fwhite-error-free-led-door-courtesy-lights-lamps-for-audi-a3-a4-a5-a6-a7-q5-q7-tt&docid=Ge48kISHWBH46M&w=1000&h=667&q=led door courtesy light&client=firefox-b-1-d&ved=0CIIBEDMoiQJqFwoTCICIlvjTqYQDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE Maybe do like @Zup suggested earlier and use the 280zx one but get a clear lens for them. Possibly from the other 280zx interior panels

Well you did better than me! I looked for NOS lights on Yahoo Japan. I looked for images on Google. I think the ones on etrailer are on the big size. Close to 4"s. The rim is also too wide and I want the lens to be translucent. I looked at Datsun dome lights to see if I could find something. Some of those were closer. The ones for the BRZ look curved which I think would be an issue.

If I were in the market, that is what I'd want to buy.

I'm game. I did some looking today but didn't come up with anything.

I would love to have a pair or figure out a kit that matched reasonably well

Id say that's really good money!

I would check with Rockauto or KYB first!

I lied. I made a separate thread...

That is what I did. There are pictures in my build thread. I did take Grannyknot's advise and didn't pull it too tight. He said the windshield gasket will tighten it some more. So I pulled it until it looked nice, smooth and even. If you pull it too tight you will crush the foam and potentially show the seams and flaws of the underlying metal.

Link to the vinyl source?

https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/fixing-vintage-air-conditioner/

https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/how-ac-works-in-your-vintage-car/

Thanks, I do have one of those

I have two ½ impacts, one battery and one corded, even they need the occasional rest when running Lok's. We usually start them with a hammer. Some jobs we'll run 100-200 in the drop sills. Earmuffs are nice...

So best I can tell. The AC evaporator connects like this. There must be a piece of metal here that helps connect these two to the factory mounting point Here are some pics of the stock evaporator BTW this thing is fragile as egg shells! How exactly does this little valve work and will it work with 134a? I was thinking I would run a rotary pump under the hood and use the "stock" AC evaporator. I'm not interested in going vintage air at this point

No reason to do 3 rows. You could probably do 2 rows at 16" O.C. and be fine Here it is; 24" O.C. https://www.diyhomecenter.com/media/pdf/fastenmaster-flatlok.pdf

At one point my jobber told me to start at 1500 grit. I was starting at 1000 or 1200 and couldn't get all the scratches out. That was also when he told me to cut and buff within 3 days of clear

The flatloks will pull it up. Just make sure you have it straight before you gang it up. It won't want to change shape after that

Got it. And your always thinking about cutting through while trying to get rid of them! 😵‍💫

What do you mean by spider webs? Light scratching, sanding marks?

No idea, but the flywheel looks much better!