Patcon

Well I finally came up with something I think will work. It took several test panels to get it where I think it's right. I used Nason FulCryl II single stage mixed 8 : 3/4 hardener 483-11 : 1 1/4 reducer 441-21 when mixed to 6 sprayable oz's add 1 1/2 oz of Limco LF-10 flattener So a couple of weeks ago we scuffed everything down... Hung it all back up in the booth Made it all black this morning The sheen is pretty good. Has some sheen that you can see but not real glossy. If I had to do it over I might use the Eastwood satin but I have seen some issues with people having adhesion problems. The Nason has never been any issue. Sprays well and sticks really well. This is shot over Omni epoxy primer.... Time to order some bushings and get moving on reassembly

Do what Mark suggests he is on the right track ^^^^^

@siteunseen Cliff, After you finish visiting Steve, keep on coming up I-85 and visit us. I have a guest house you can stay in during the visit. Missed seeing you in Memphis. You were too busy bar crawling with Bruce...

Zedyone Do you have a fire extinguisher in your Z? At 18 psi, blowing fuel everywhere above the exhaust, it might be a good idea....

Very pretty! I like the linkage hardware. I have a set like that somewhere on the shelf or I would be in the hunt...

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm

I suspect if Eiji built it, he has records of that. If there is a problem with the engine I would talk to him first. He has a very good reputation and has built engines for several forum members

TMI !!! My eyes! my eyes!!!

Maybe they would make one if you called them. This can't be a super high volume business

Thanks Guy, I have been planning on single stage but we may go BC/CC

Martin makes good tools

looks well packaged

Grannyknot is correct. He is the man to go to and very supportive of our old cars. He is the only source for some NLA parts...

Exactly right! It would take a good setup and an experienced DIYer to get decent results

My sample of 918 doesn't seem to be as orange as yours. I wonder if that's the brand of paint? The sample at the top of the hood is 918, almost mustard color, not really orange. Guy is your paint single stage or BC/CC?

Ryan, That is a slick looking engine bay. Coil packs and triples, love it...

It does seem to be a little brown or something. It is a really classic color but it doesn't have the "pop" the 022 has

Does the gap leak? Can you feel exhaust coming out the exhaust gap with the car idling or hear it? If it didn't leak I wouldn't touch it. "If it ain't broke don't break it." sort of thing...

Even if you do everything right you will still get some blow through. If you run the wire out a little more or trigger very quickly you can bridge the holes. It can be quite the challenge to MIG on very thin sheet metal

It's pretty simple inside but getting them open and closed can be a challenge. We drilled a wooden plate for each side. Clamped the bottom plate in the vise and screwed 2 3' 2x4's to the top one to get enough leverage to get it open. It is spring loaded inside but not crazy tension

Shot a test panel to try to pick a color for Cody's 510 These colors are all "orange" from top to bottom 918 056 022 That's from memory and it's not what it once was. I substituted a hardener so it was curing slow and my paper stuck in the first color. He likes 022 the best... 056 is really not orange, I like it, but it's more like Garnet...

I believe they are soldered into the tank. You are probably just turning it to where the solder joint is thicker and it tightens up. It probably needs to be removed and taken to someone to be boiled out and resoldered. Radiator shop possibly?

I hope it works good for you. This is one of the parts I come across all the time that's needs replacing but the rebuild parts aren't really available. It would be nice if a DIY approach could be developed. You can buy them remanufactured but that is suspect too. The little early booster is sort of unobtainium now, so rebuilding is your only option for a purest...

When you butt weld like that, or pretty much anytime for that matter, you have to do just little spot welds 1/4" or so long at a time. Space them out 6-8". You have to let it cool a lot between welds. If you can touch it, and it feel relatively cool, it's too hot. Sometimes I used compressed air to help it cool, but that may do more harm then good. If you weld too much at a time the panel will warp, especially on our thin Japanese tin

Are they different on each S30 or all the same part? I may have one close at hand if the 280Z is the same