Patcon

Did you check vacuum on the booster after rebuilding it? Many times the leaks is in the fold at the bottom of the booster. It is caused by brake fluid leaking into the booster from the master cylinder and degrading the rubber. Also were the seals around the center pushrods good. I have attempted similar fixes with mixed results. I found reassembly easier if you apply pressure to both halves, like in a vise or press before trying to rotated the upper half

"Big Blue" = Ford

Adhesives will work for some things but not others. You could install a full quarter with adhesive but patches in a floor would be hard to hide because you need a lap joint. No butting panels with adhesives. I have looked at using some of them but I would probably waste a lot of material because the tube would just sit for months between uses. The welding I do will work, is durable, time tested and will last longer than I will...

That was some serious hail. Surprised it wasn't visible from inside the hood too

Congrats Jim

That's not sludge! That's high density lubricant... I agree on the water in the oil suspicion

I understand , a man has to have a hobby. Hopefully not...there are cars to be finished

That's a nice early Z, I would recommend you don't modify the car in a way that is not reversible. The really early cars are some of the most sought after and hence the most valuable. The RB won't be easily reversible. The car should be plenty of fun with the Mikunis, a good cam and proper tuning...have fun

Are you headed back to the "sand box"?

Yes, but they're worth it

CO, Are those powered or could they be? They have a good shape for the car, if only they were the right color...

Wow, Lord help me. I own one, I know I do, I just don't know if I can lay my hands on it. I will try to look around this weekend for it. I sorta know where to start. I believe on the 280zx the interior panel is molded with a bump out to accommodate the wiper motor

Be safe... C

I think that was the question. I believe he is looking to replace the steel portion of the flywheel but needs to ID it first...

Leaking where? How?

Try running a temporary feed line straight to the battery just for the memory power. Does it still lose memory when starting? Yes >>> battery / voltage issue No>>> look for bad / corroded connections in the harness reducing the transmitted voltage this would be my suspension for deeper drop when wired to the acc key position worst case, find a good discreet source for memory power and leave it like that

I am not sure, but just guessing, the ring gear may be drilled in a different pattern or it is easier to bolt in a complete rear end then move the parts to a new case and get the mess and gear lash setup properly. It is evidently somewhat difficult to get the preload right. Plus with used parts the mesh would have to be very close to the way the previous case was or you can have gear whine... I would love to learn moving the ring and gear and chunk over from the STi case is possible as for me that seems easier. Another possibility is the output shafts from LSD chunk are splined differently than the factory outputs...

I bought some silver bullet mirrors that I will try to find. They look like the ones people run on the front fenders on 510's and old Z's. I ordered them from someone that came up through the forum. They were ordered from a vendor so I was able to order the passenger side with the wide view lens.

I don't believe drilling the glass is an option. The rear glass is tempered and drilling it will release the tension and explode the glass. I kept the rear wiper assembly from the 280zx turbo I parted out. I think it could be adapted in the earlier hatch fairly easily. You would need to add a switch somewhere...

We had a Miata for a while and the seats never bothered me. The car was so small inside for me they didn't have to be too supportive because I was wedged in there anyway. We had the speakers in the headrest too, and I loved them. They made the stereo so much easier to here at lower volumes

I recommend you get some small 4 oz samples from a paint supplier first. Shoot it on a test panel. You can even change the base color grey, black & white. The color will vary some based on the underlying color, unless you get a lot of color on the car. Then you can see the color in person in the daylight. Pictures on the computer don't always color render well.

It is my understanding, the more current you pull the harder they are to turn...

This can be a problem even for dealers some times. I have to use a broker when buying cars out of Alabama because they don't recognize our dealers license. You also have to be careful if you plan to register the vehicle because many of the cars are parts only and unregisterable but they come as "Certificate of destruction" / "Bill of sale" or some other unclear description. When they quote ACV (Actual Cash Value), they are quoting the value of the undamaged car and then they normally give you an insurance adjuster estimate to repair. Normally it can be repaired for less if you have the resources and are a good scrounger...cars like this get sold for scrap weight. It is just the process they go through for the insurance company to get rid of the chassis. This car is a total burn. They rust like crazy after they burn and typically there will be a puddle of aluminum under them from where the head melted from the heat.

I am a licensed car dealer so we don't have purchase limits, but individuals have to place a deposit to be able to purchase from them. The larger the deposit the more buying power. Like all dealer auctions you bid, you buy it, it's yours! If it breaks in half after the auction pick up your halves and move on. Look at the fee schedule at the bottom of the page. They run about 20% or so plus the internet fee, plus the loading fee. They normally use large wheel loader forklifts to move the cars. I don't know how well that works on old S30's. It doesn't affect modern cars that bad. If you have an account, which you can open for free you can go to the yard and sign in and go look at the car. Only one individual per account number. The auctions run online and the software is pretty good. On old cars it's not a huge issue but not all cars are being offered by insurance companies. Some are what we call "setup" cars where someone made some repairs or took the expensive parts off and are running the car back through the auction on the "greater fools" theory. Also "Run & Drive" does not mean you can drive it home!!! It means it starts and can move under it's own power. Now it may sound likes it gonna fly apart or may not have any oil or antifreeze in it, but it is Run & Drive

I have bought cars from Copart for years. All of those cars are in my watchlist. They can be difficult to deal with and the fees are high but sometimes you find a diamond in the rough. now the secrets out...