Patcon

Yes, I believe you understand. I would try to do three pieces about 6' long. You actually don't have to pick the whole side up at once if you can't. The building will "flex" some if you pick it up in one area and not another. You can get it jacked up and then cut temporary studs to length and then you can move the jacks around. When you want to set it down you can drive each stud out a little at time so they all come down evenly or you can use the jack again to lower them. A 2x6 as a top plate works better than a 2x4. It's wider and stiffer...

A bad back is no fun! If the rafters and celing joist are tied to the wall plate well enough, you can setup a temporary wall inside the existing wall about 12-16". Use bottle jacks and temp posts to jack up the ceiling structure. It should take the wall with it. Be sure you have all the studs free from the plate. You dont need a lot of movement to have enough gap. You may have to replace the sill on shorter sections to get it in there.

Was the new cable the solution?

That was a fabulous car!

It would be nice to see a reproduction but I bet they would be surprisingly expensive. They are more complicated than they look

Maybe a refrigerator hose went through the grommets?

I suspect the rubber seal on the vent flap is gone. When it's intact it adds friction to the closed position so it won't open up on it's own

I believe the speedo end is just a square end on the cable. If it pulls through easy, it should go back just as easy. Now when it gets to the top you will have to rotate it to get it into the the speedo drive hole. As long as the inner cable comes out at close to the right angle it all aught to go right back together, Worst case you have to remove the cable from the speedo and then reattach by feel. It's do-able...

The issue could be anywhere in the sheath. Yes I believe you can pull the drive cable all the way out towards the transmission end. Getting it back in and all engaged might be a trick though. IDK

I am sure I will have to do this. This is something I overlooked until your thread came up.

Yes, I figured out the same thing about the firewall pad myself. You did good getting the original vinyl back in. Mine wasn't in good enough shape to consider

I agree! That car's got pretty much all the options I would want. Will be interesting how high it goes...

Pictures?

I guess the wider rubber might help with ultimate traction as far as throwing the car around bur definitely not enough horsepower to break those loose. I have mixed feelings about wheel flairs but I think I would prefer flares to the work they put in to widen the car.

Are you going to list it on BaT? If you do be sure and post up a link. Will be fun to see how it does

Yes, I agree. That was one of my big dislikes. I am also not sure about the rear edge of the door, but I think I do like the door going to the bottom of the rocker panel

That's got some big rubber under it! 2000 hours at a minimum $50 an hour. $150-200k in the car. I like some of the metal work. Some I don't...

Yes, I will look through it

Silvers are notoriously difficult to match. He has a good eye. It looks much better without the molding!

You're killing me! 😉

They sell a product called mold control at home depot. You could spray that area before you cover it up to try to prevent mold growth. Limiting moisture will help a lot too.

The rubber insulators are square pads of rubber glued to the top of the tank to prevent it rubbing against the car body. If you used 2 gallons in just testing then the car is running really rich. Running better with vacuum leaks, which leans the mixture would make sense. EFI is not my forte. Maybe someone can chime in and tell you what areas need Inspection to see what the PO messed with to make it run with all those leaks. Also the connections at the thermostat housing are important. If they get reversed it will be really rich. An AFR gauge would still be really useful

Looks like the same glass I just put in Lily

Thats an interesting collection of names you've got there! 😉

The Fpr is used to modulate fuel pressure using engine vacuum. With the engine off the fpr is basically inoperative. You should get the max pressure of the system, roughly 36, IIRC