Patcon

I believe the resource section has templates for them except maybe the floor mats. Unless I forgot to post my tunnel templates?

The wires aren't very expensive...

Where is the positive terminal on the old battery? I prefer to get one that has the positive terminal away from the fender.

Where did you source that?

Well, you answered one of my questions. You still have the noise on a cool differential. I wouldn't get rid of any CLSD r200! If even for parts in the future. If it was me and I could afford it, I would find a rebuilder to go through it. Especially after reading inline6's thread on what he's gone through trying to do his. Call Rebello, zcargarage or Datsun spirit for a price or a recommended shop to do the work.

I suspect in the speedo itself. I have had mixed results cleaning them.

@chaseincats Being in Texas I wouldn't think smog or inspections would be an issue?

That might be nice!

Testing headlamp bulbs in the shop the other day. Another use for the jump box. I have an LED kit that SteveJ recommended but I figured I would start this way and then add the LED's in later

Cody worked on the parking brake some more. We figured "while we were at it..." So he took it all apart. He bead blasted the black parts. We didn't paint them yet because it's been so cold. He did buff out the brake handle Finished Didn't get the teeth totally perfect but I think it will be ok Used a little Boeshield to protect it

I believe it is Kilo pascals...

So the shims your are changing on the pinion are #4 on this diagram? The side shims are #9 & #18? If so adding shims is going to reduce lash because the pinion gear is conical and as it moves further back in the case lash is going to go down, but that's going to move the contact pattern on the ring. I'm not sure that I would hold to this instruction about overall thickness. You've got a new center section and new bearings. It's possible that a minor manufacturing tolerance has changed the overall thickness needed. I would be passionate about keeping the original contact patch in the same place though.

So you checking sounds correct. Just make sure your indicator is set at the very outside and tangential to the ring. So, from the sound of post #70 you changed two things at once and you are currently focusing on the shims at the front of the case? I had a thought, so I did some research to see if I was on the right track. I have never done a differential, so I wasn't confident in my thought process. I thought you need to set the depth of the pinion in the case and then adjust for backlash. I forgot about preload. That would be second. So it's my understanding that the shims at the front will mainly change patterning. While this will affect backlash, that's not the main purpose. The side shims are used to adjust backlash. Move the ring closer for less backlash further away for more. Here are some things I found. Take all of these with a grain of salt because alot of these are solid axles but most of the info aught to transpose. https://www.randysworldwide.com/blogs/gear-backlash https://www.yukongear.com/blogs/12-tech-tips-for-differential-assembly-setup_1 One of the main things I took away from this thread, was if you move the wear pattern, it can "sing". https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/adjusting-an-old-ring-and-pinion.447201/ So I would try to keep the wear pattern as close to the original as possible. I believe as the lash goes down the heel/toe drive/coast patches will move towards the center of the tooth. Did that make sense?

@inline6 So a question? Quickly, what is your method for checking lash?

Artemis mission, super cool!!! We would love a lake house but Im not sure we'd make time to enjoy it. Just too many other things taking time

Yes, post that in the resources section

No, you could separate the halves of the glove box door and install it like the factory did

I wouldn't cap them off on concern of pressurizing the crankcase and causing oil leaks

There are plenty of people out there where $100k is a nice night on the town. At some level of wealth, time is more valuable than money. Maybe he didn't want to look for another car or it ticked all the right boxes? We'll probably never know unless Alan's suspicions supply feedback at some point.

Yeah, I don't really know either but the guy telling me this has helped me for a number of years and paints cars on the side. Along the same lines, it seems like letting primer coats shrink for an extended period of time would have the same effect to prevent urethane wave

My paint supply told me I should cut and buff within 24hrs. That I would get better results before I let it get too hard. I don't always do that but I have found it easier to get good results that way

That is so cool!!!

They're proud of that. I googled the part number for the 280z and found sources claiming they were in stock for about $95. I didn't check the 240 part number Just checked that part number. Pretty much everybody I saw was cheaper than $308 Courtesy was $254 Amazon was $220 Plenty on ebay from $150- 170

Yes, it's a Z432. Not really comparable to any other S30

Looks like 17312-N4700 & 17208-N4500 are available