Patcon

I have the Hobart 210 or 230 from them. I like it and haven't really had any issues. I find running thin wire .023 or .025 makes it easier to weld on these thin cars. Real thin areas on setting #1 about 20 in/min thicker stuff on #2 at about 25 in/min very rarely up to #3 or #4. Also keep the feed line as straight as possible if it has a lot of turns in it sometimes it doesn't feed consistently. You should have plenty of welder, so with a little practice you will figure it out. Are you using shield gas? I don't like flux core wire....

What welder are you using?

^^^^ What he said. A wire brush will not get you down to clean metal...

Soooo...California, Arizona and NJ are expensive to get your car painted; Florida, Alabama and South Carolina, not so much. I was quoted $6-7000 for all my metal work, epoxy primer, finished in basecoat clearcoat. One of the guys would blast it for that... I opted to do it all myself because I can use that $6000 to buy tools and new parts. I figure I will have about $10 -$12,000 in it reasonably finished. I am not trying to build a trailer queen but a nice driver. One thing you could try, is call Datsun Spirit or another reputable Z specialist and see if they paint or could recommend someone that is not too far away. Even if you have to trailer it out of NJ, for that kind of money hauling it a few hours would be well worth it.

Sometimes the chokes won't come out. Weber makes some specialized tools, one of them is a special puller for removing stuck chokes. The one I had with a stuck choke couldn't easily be driven out. You can destroy the casting if you get too aggressive with a hammer and a drift....

I would think in Panama $4,500 would go a pretty good way. $5,000-$6000 would get you a really well done job here where I'm at...

2 gallons of filler is about 200% of what you should need for a car the size of a Z if it's reasonably straight, even if you sand half of it off on the floor. No primers in your list! Are they supplying primer but not finished paint? That doesn't make sense because they want you to supply paper and sealer... My biggest concern right from the start, is are they planning to fill all the rust holes with filler and then just spray base and color over that and call it done. I would look for a professional shop that doesn't ask you to supply all the materials. I wouldn't POR 15 under any finish paint for any reason, but that's me. Etching primers will work, epoxy primer are better....

You have prayers for Kathy...and wisdom for the doctors...

wheee! Do you have it in hand?

The floors are pretty rough. The rocker panels and inner rail structure that would be my biggest concern. Zedd Findings does have the best floor boards but they will not cover all the areas you will probably need to fix. They don't extend up the firewall very far. How are the front frame rails?

Front clip is cheap, it's the shipping that's gonna hurt... I bought this car years ago just for the fuel tank. Then they passed a county ordinance against unlicensed vehicles, which is rarely enforced, but they came by one day because a neighbor was abusing the situation. So I cut it in half, now it's car parts and the ordinance no longer applies...

This chunk weighs right at 200#'s. I bought 2 cheap scales to keep in the shop. This chunk weighs 389#'s with a little bit of misc weight, glassless hatch, qtr windows, etc. So a 76 stripped chassis is a little less than 589#'s whole. A 240z would probably be a little lighter but probably not a lot.

I googled the numbers checking Courtesy and some other sites. They came up either NLA or superceded. I agree sometimes Courtesy says they can get parts when they may not be able to get it. I would love to find a source for the earlier parts unless there is no real discrepancy...

Looks like 55476-N4300 is available. Everything else seems to come up superceded or NLA

He about ate it a quite a few times. You really can't tell from the video, at least on my computer, but the inside bank is pretty much all solid rock and boulders. He gets squirrely near it a few times and most of the outside turns don't have rails and if you go over you are about 60-100' up in the trees... Don't miss

Both circuits (front & back) work with or without the booster, they just require more effort. If one circuit fails the other circuit will stop the car but over a longer distance. Pulling the parking brake at speed is a fast way to end up spinning out of control

Sort of how I felt. I have 2 waiting on projects but for that kind of money I could probably be happy with less displacement...

So how does it operate?

I was browsing Ebay tonight and saw a V07 crank for $2,000 thankfully shipping was free...

^^^ Ditto, What Mark said...

Congrats. The car looks good. PM me if you need anything. I am local and have lots of sources

Like that! triples...

Cliff, Remember it doesn't get any more southern than South Carolina. The buckle on the belt and the first to start a fight...

the_tool_man I live in Spartanburg, I can probably help you if you need advise or parts. 280's are not my forte but I would be glad to help if you need it... Charles

Remove the existing factory deadener. I would treat the shell with Ospho or some other phosphating chemical, then epoxy prime. Kurby is right most systems don't approve of mixing and matching brand names. although I have done it without problems..