Patcon

A ladies mind can be a scary place best avoided if at all possible...

Eastwood is an acid for sure, you can smell it, but gets sticky like urethane if you let it sit too long, don't know what all is in it. It does work good though.

Yes. the contacts get burnt. try the search for one of the switch rebuild threads. There are some that have very good pictures. Headlight relays and parking lights relay are a good idea to protect the switch from the high current draws...

Butt weld. Do it right the first time and forget it. plus like Chuck said no edge to collect debris...

Wheee! the picture in post #427, the reinforcement plate right above the frame rail is gonna have a hole behind it. I did sort of what ksechler did by shooting Eastwood internal frame rail coating in every space I could find until it ran out every where. I even shot it inside the concealed areas in the hood Consigli summed it up pretty well acid dip gets all of it but must be neutralized well, typically costs more. Media blasting is more common but can damage a car if they get careless. My blaster used sand on the car I am doing now. It is hard to get all the media out of the car. Wheee! If you blast to clean metal get some "After Blast" from Eastwood. Spray it on wipe it down, the metal will store for years if its kept dry and won't flash rust. If you use self etching primer you can't use epoxy and vice versus. After talking to the guys at the paint supply they advised me to go epoxy. It's tougher, sticks better and is more water resistant.

that may be ok too...

It's a small, not my size. Couldn't own it if I can't wear it...

Reply, reply, reply I would go look at it but it's too far, seems like a good price for any sort of complete car that's not swiss cheese...pull it together a little and flip it if you need to

I have not heard good things about black dragon fenders..don't know on the hood unless it has the louvered vent holes

I am not sure Outdoorsman is still monitoring this. It would be nice to resolve the issue just to know what it was...

How much are you asking for the 70 240z? What is the vin number of the car? Thanks, Charles Vin was HLS30-02675 $2k and it's all yours or make an offer

I agree with Zed Head. While most of this 280 EFI is out of my expertise, if it won't run on ether then the issue is not fuel related. Ignition timing, spark or plugs provided compression is good. Is your valve adjustment good?

Better want them bad though...

The epoxy primer is very tough and sticks really well, plus if you stay with the same manufacturer you don't have compatibility issues. I wouldn't base coat clear the bottom of the car unless it's need to make your paint look correct. I would single stage the bottom and base/ clear what matters. When I jambed out my car, I sprayed the engine bay, interior, door jambs and inside of the hatch with single stage and will shoot base / clear on the exterior. Base clear costs more than single stage.

It was the "so long folks" part that was worrying me. As guess as a mod you can change all kinds of things...

blodi Car looks great and a quadcopter and an rc plane in the background even better...

Wheee! The primer under you car looks pretty good. I wouldn't remove it unless I suspected it hid issues. I wouldn't POR over it either. I would treat any exposed metal with a phosphating product. Scuff it up good and shoot epoxy primer over that. Then color it or undercoat it. No need to POR 15 what isn't corroded. I had a patch panel on a car that was only covered with epoxy primer and sat outside for 2 years and didn't rust

Is that Blue?????

What color was the car originally, green or the lighter color?

If I remember correctly, Zed head had a car that wouldn't run without the tachometer plugged in. Don't know if that is definitive though...

Steve, Is this the same BRE that was in Memphis? I made lots of detail pictures of that car...

Very cool. Love all the milling equipment. I would really have too many projects if I had tools like that...

I figured it was because you are so precise, just surprised it was black...

Steve, Is black the proper color for the bracket instead of yellow zinc?

I think I have 2 pairs of originals in the shop some where. I plan to use them on the yellow car if I ever get it finished. I also have a pair of 260z Euro's too some where but don't own a 260/280... They still look good dusty...