Patcon

Somehow I think when the new owner is complaining about you, at that point you won't care...

Yeah a nice build and I believe it was the 50mm that made the Mikunis rare. I would also like to see the final numbers. I would also be interested in the costs numbers to see how they compare to some of the other performance builders.

Sounds good.

the link through to the engine build is nice. Another great option for a high capacity engine. I would love to know rough pricing for the engine and tranny...

Thanks Bruce. Always nice to get a "Sparkys" input on such things.

The easiest way I have found to do this is "right click" on the legacy subscription link and select "open in a new tab". When it loads put the cursor in the url line. Edit the legacy out with "www". Hit enter, it will reload in the new software and you can click "follow" and select frequency then enter. Only 277 more...

Wow. Well I got in... 278 subscribed threads. This is gonna take a while...

Fabulous!!!! Thanks for all you do, as well as the other moderators...

Many times I will put bolts and nuts back on the part after it is removed so you have the correct size and length in the correct location. On some parts this is not possible but on many it is...

Captain Obvious or SteveJ have thoughts on this?

Make a piece of wood. It will work fine, Oak or maple something hard with few splinters. Like Site said be sure and get a place to tie the rope securely. Pull the head, it is a more reliable way to repair the head with less risk

I have seen Steve's work and it is beautiful. He walked me through it one day when he was plating. I have notes somewhere...I believe Steve is right though to some degree everyone's setup will work a little different but you would think the overall method would be the same with just minor differences

Where were you using the white vinegar? As muriatic or as a prep solution? When 240Nix showed me this he was yellow chromating for about 12-15 secs if I remember right...

Do the Nissan heads not use a pressed in cam bearing? I have never looked that close...The one with the deep grooves are pretty deep. I wouldn't think sanding them out would be a good idea. If there is no bearing then replace the towers or have them line bored and add a bearing sleeve.

Did you ever try the Eastwood forum or Kevin Tetz "Paintucation" forum. Either one can probably get you pointed in the right direction. Also Isocyanates can be dangerous. Good respirator and ventilation are important!

That little stirring feeling I have deep inside may be machinists lathe envy...

Absolutely, particulars would be great! How long did you yellow chromate? Did you use any blue chromate? What was your prep routine?

I believe there are different plates available...You may need to check to see which one you need.

If you're not gonna autocross or do anything crazy, why go coilover at all? It is one of the most involved suspension mods available...

The cars you see peeling are normally from other issues. Poor prep or faulty products. Buy good products and you will be ok.

Zup's got a 300zxtt???? What else is he hiding?

The 3M stuff is good. It's a little pricey for a hobbyist but I will probably go the same route when I start blocking.

There is a fairly new product for guide coating called dry guide coat. It is a dry powder you spread on the surface. There are several companies that make it. I agree with Chuck buy good plastic filler. Evercoat makes several different ones. I buy the most expensive one I can afford. There is not that much difference in price in the big scheme of this. I think I am using Rage Gold Extreme currently. Works well and sands easily. You can guide coat with cheap black paint too. If you buy dry guide coat, one can will last a hobbyist forever.

There is another thread about rebuilding these using a similar pump. I would find it but lost all my subscriptions

The tank looks great