Patcon

Looks great. I am 5 years in and just a little behind you. You are doing great work. Looks good. I hope to be wheels down in the spring. I am even in the same color family...

But when you look at the video there are never any black streaks behind the Z like he has no brakes...

Is your return line hooked up? Have you tried pumping fuel into a container to check volume and flow?

Wanted to be sure you saw the last post...

Be sure you have the capacitor on your points or they will scorch quickly and kill your spark.

Let us know if that does the trick...

Check your belts. That is normally a belt squeaking. If you are pulling a lot of power its the alternator belt squeaking. Check that the belts are tight and not old and hard...

Thanks

The problem is I'm getting old and can't even remember what I had subscribed to. Bushing threads, motor threads, I can't even remember them all of them...

CO is right, moving the spindle may make things harder for you. If it is set properly then it is not overly important to correct right now. When you reclock the spindle the timing will have to be totally reset of the engine won't start. Look in the FSM under setting timing. The light is hooked to spark plug one and flashes when it fires. Shine the flashing light on the end of the crankshaft. The strobe effect will show when the spark plug fires relative to the timing marks. Set per the manuals instructions.

I am trying to find my thread subscriptions so I can look at some older threads that had good info in them. On my personal profile, I assume my subscribed threads are under "content I follow" but when I go there, there are almost no subscribed threads. Did I lose all my subscriptions when the website moved over to the new format? That would really suck as I had 30-40 really cool threads I had saved over the years...

Andreas, Thanks for that. It sounds great. What is your engine setup?

Sometimes the sway bar is in the way and has to be lowered. It is easier with two people. when you lower the oil pump, oil is gonna want to drip every where. You will need a catch pan. The spindle rotates as it disengages, so you have to lower it to disengage and rotate it some then push it up to reengage, until it is in the correct position like Lumens posted in #19. Once it is clocked correctly reinstall the oil pump bolts. The you will have to reset the ignition timing.

Drop the oil pump and re-clock the spindle.

Video ^^^^ Let's hear it...

Thanks Philip. I have a lead on a parts car. If we don't pick that up I will definitely be in touch.

I agree with both ^^^^^ Tire issues would be my first check on the vibration at speed. Run the old gas out and get good fresh high octane gas in and see if the running improves Exhaust fumes are almost always bad gaskets or rust holes in the rear of the car. Taillight gaskets / hatch / and vent hose gaskets... Horsepower comes later when everything else is right!

Then why did you buy a vintage air??? You could have just source the dealer ac system off of Ebay...

That's a very interesting solution. Thanks, Jim We will now return you to your regularly scheduled programming...

Jim, before we return to our regularly scheduled programming, can you post a picture of your gauges? I don't totally understand...

Love it!! I would do that all day long. Bookmarked...

Wasn't California recently considering moving the date up to something like 1979 for smog? Sorry for the "thread jack"...

Have you checked the timing? The popping or dieseling when cutting it off could be timing related...

Antifreeze has antirust properties. That is why it is important to not run straight water.

Congratulations. There was a lot of rust under the car.