Patcon

I have ordered several things out of Australia. It is normally not a problem if you are prepared for the freight charges. You gotta pay to play...

Mitchell If there is a next time you can use mine. I might even deliver it,,,

I have found carriers are much more careful with packages that are insured. If you ship something and want it taken care of, insure it...

That picture was perfect Cliff

I like the muffler too. What is it?

What are you valve clearances? Could you have lost some adjustment and not be getting good valve sealing? I would think it would be noisy with less lash...I would redegree the cam and see if it meets spec. Also Zed may be onto something with the ignition route. If it won't start with ether I almost always rule out fuel. also your AFR was reading fine, so unless it is bad too?? That would also rule out fuel. Can you verify your afr is reading correctly somehow? Swap to another race car or one of your cars?

I don't know. Just send them an email and ask...

That actually looks ok...

The standard rear crossmember hits the finned cover. You have to get something like an Arizona Z car rear crossmember to clear the finned cover

Is it an open diff or a Limited slip? That would be my first suspicion for why it was changed. Jack up the rear of the car and turn one wheel forward. Does the other wheel turn forward (LSD) or rearward (open diff)?

The 81d C is right about where it should be. Look for a short somewhere in the harness or behind the temp gauge...

If you can't source the hood are you gonna be good if I make you one??? I will check on a hatch...

Bruce, I understand, totally...

^^^Yes, Contact Dave...

Take the interior panel off the hatch. The push button just has a metal tab that sticks out to one side inside the hatch. When it is unlocked it hangs out over a release lever, when you push it down it pops the hatch. When it's locked the lock is rotated 90d so it is no longer over the release lever. Reach up in the hatch from the inside and find the release lever. Trip it by hand. A small mirror and a light might be good too... I hope that makes sense...

These cars will take hot weather. I have run them hard in the deep south of the US in 90-100dF temps. I would think if she doesn't like high temps there is another issue somewhere...

I would not do what he did. Have you contacted vintage air about recommended installs for a 240Z? Look at "240z air conditioning" and "240z AC" for what the "stock" evaporator box looked like

Let me get this straight, your opinion on whether a product is good or possibly the best is whether the cheapest parts suppliers in your area carry it???? They carry what is cheap because people want things a cheap as they can get them. That doesn't mean there isn't a better product out there. It's hard to sell a more expensive product if people don't see the value... but many times you get what you pay for... No offense intended.

Love the sound but have to view them sideways...

Leave the heater core alone! If you ever start running hot you can use it to keep from destroying the head. Drill the holes it's what all the older 240z's with AC have. You will have to drill a drain hole for the evaporator anyway, what is a couple more. Also there are some threads from another forum that suggest it is a bad idea to delete the heater hoses or bypass them. I already knew you had an AC system... If you want the factory pod you will have to look for a factory ac system on Ebay. I would think you vintage air system would come with some kind of controls... I don't see how you can control the add-on AC from the factory controls. If it's possible it would be a lot of work!!! With the mechanical help you have been able to get so far I would rule it out...

Looks great Bart! C

Blue, Can you elaborate or add pictures so I can ID the idiosyncrasies of these parts. I may have some of this...

On the 240z's I have worked on that had air, the refrigerant lines were brought through the firewall down low on the passenger side. You just have to drill extra holes. The ones with the dealer added air have a small pod screwed to the drivers side of the center console with a switch that started the compressor and a knob that controlled temperature. Most of them use the existing ductwork to provide the air so the existing heater blower moves the air through the evaporator to cool it. I would not delete the heater even where you live...

No problem. I am glad for him to have the business.

The closest I appear to have is 77,000 or so. Have you considered milling the block and having it re-engraved with the correct numbers. You can't represent it as the original block but you can call it a remanufactured block at least here you can. You would need to match the font. I once saw a early 50's block for a vw that had no numbers on it and that would be the way to handle a block like that. Also do you have the engine bay tag that has the motor number on it. What number do you need? Maybe, by some great odds, one of us has it...