Patcon

That exhaust is aluminized. It will rust given time. It is not stainless steel and would cost twice as much if it were...

Power doesn't come from pressure!!!! Power comes from fuel! If it flows enough fuel then the pressure is irrelevant. Figure out if it is pumping enough fuel. Do the flow test from the FSM. These are not large engines they don't need a ton of fuel. 30 GPH is overkill.

It's not that plug-n-play. If you want to go turbo you are gonna have to do some more research. You either need everything off a 280zx turbo motor. Sensors, ignition, harness, injectors,ecu, everything or you need to build a standalone system, Megasquirt, Haltech or other. The fuel maps in the 300zx ECU won't work properly for your setup...

I tend to be a glutton for punishment but that car needs a lot of metal. I hope you get to spend a lot of quality time with your grand parents.

My wife is from Fredericksburg, Texas so we make it back that way once a year or so.

The pressure on the 8016 is sufficient. The real question is flow. Nobody specifies how much that pump flows. You need to do a flow test and calculate how much fuel it flows. It may or may not be a fuel issue. Mark is right there are other possibilities.

There were several sets sold on ebay for $100 or so. They were pretty rough. There were also several rebuilt sets complete with linkage and factory air cleaners that sold for $400 - $500+ dollars

I love beer and steak is good too. I like road trips too. You never know... Looked it up. It's only 37 hours each way

I understand. I saw the vendor at the peoples choice show. He had a few units still in the paper. I look forward to meeting another Texan...

That's great. Are you done yet??!

That's a great piece and $50 was a good price. I can think of several cars that could benefit from that piece. The swiss cheese low number car someone is redoing here on the forum or Blue's low number car, depending on if he needs it...

Wheee! You look like you have a good size welder. That will make your life easier too.

I don't own any Clecos but they would work. The 1/4" zip screws like heating and air contractors use work great, are cheap, no predrilling and you end up with a small hole to fill either way. I use a magnetic 1/4" bit holder so it can be set with one hand, leaving the other hand free for panel placement. For what a few Clecos cost you could buy several hundred zip screws and the bit holder.

Moelk Did you see this http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47109-chinese-dcoe-130/ Would love to know how they work...

Lon, Were you in Memphis? I would hate to think I failed to meet anyone else besides Cliff...

The last 240z I had stripped cost me like $900. I would do that all day long before I would spend 40 plus hours in paint stripper. I found my blaster by asking at my local automotive paint supply. They gave me a list and I started calling people and seeing where they work. This particular blaster does work for the local Mopar restorer who is doing 6 digit cars. If they trust him with that expensive iron my Z will be ok.

Find a vendor in your area that supplies media to the local blasters. I know my guy locally and he has products like Amber blast in multiple grits. That guy will be the best resource for finding the right media for your project and equipment. Just remember even with a booth the dust goes every where, sort of like drywall dust. Let us know how it goes...

Normally the number engraved on the car is the most important VIN number it supersedes all removable plates. I agree with CO on what happened. Leave the DMV alone, don't beat on that hornets nest. Get plates that match the title and move on.

I can't take credit for that. I have the Kevin Tetz videos and that is how he recommends fitting panels. Rough cut them, then overlay and screw in place then when you finish cut them they are the perfect size and ready to weld in

I would pull the front fenders so you can look for rust at the inside bottom where they collect mud also the front of the rockers can have holes too. I would remove everything from the engine bay. The lines can be unbolted and pulled to middle so the engine bay can be painted. Don't disassemble more than you have to. Take the straightest path to a nice driveable car...

James I would love to now what you think of the before and after effects of the sound matting..

Cudos Steve and everyone else involved. Jai I hope you have a great time!

I bought a 90# pressure pot from Bad Dog/Boy Blasters?? works pretty good if you do it in an area where you can broom up and recycle the media. Get a media screen so you can filter what you reuse. I also have a 3/4" hose from the compressor to the blasting pot with quick releases. Dont blast straight at any panels always at an angle. Remember the media is gonna go everywhere!!! Stay covered up and a dust mask or you will feel the sunburn...

I used a small air powered body saw and a die grinder with a cut off wheel. Take zip screws and screw the floor pan where you want it. cut a section so the old panel and the new panel are cut at the same time. Butt weld that section then work around the panel skipping from side to side and end to end. This also allowed me to take a hammer and dolly and work the edges of the pan so they matched the transmission tunnel shape. After a little grinding and some primer the repair is invisible.

3 psi shouldn't overwhelm the float valves. Makes sure the floats are set properly and seal when shut. 1st things 1st...