Patcon

Was there a problem running at 3 psi? I don't totally understand how your fuel is plumbed. I would start with the old fuel pump if that's easy. See what you get. Replace the regulator and see what you get. If it showed pressure before with the old setup then one of the items you changed broke it. Does it run at 0 psi?

I think Grannyknot was suggesting using the seam sealer to hold the metal channel in place sorta like glue to usher the water to the back of the car.

Still it looks great. Thanks

That's a good guess. That would change the throttle linkage position as the motor rocks.

lumens Did a powder coater do that for you?

I do it the same way. Load leveler makes all the difference. My load leveler has a nut I welded on the front so I can adjust it with an impact gun. Much easier than turning the crank by hand.

I totally understand about the wife part. Glad you're doing ok. You would need a good frame man to pull the chassis straight. It would probably cost more than its worth.

I have seen this system in other hotrod type magazines. It's a neat system and if I remember correctly you can add more than one power distribution box. So one could handle the front of the car and one could handle the rear or however you wanted to break it up. Found this: Isis Power At the heart of the Isis Power system is a completely new paradigm for automotive wiring, so for the moment at least, try to set aside your current understanding of what's involved when wiring any car. The brain of the Isis Power automotive wiring system is a completely solid-state unit known as the Mastercell. It accepts the actual On and Off switching of each electrical function and is fully programmable. It can receive input from as many as 50 different switches, sensors, and the like. The Mastercell in turn signals up to five Powercells that control the actual distribution of power. Each Powercell is a localized hub that can be placed in the car as needed. One in the front, somewhere in the engine compartment, and another hidden in the trunk will be adequate for most applications. Each Powercell is wired with two eight-gauge, 60-amp, fused leads from the battery and can supply power for up to 10 different functions. The obvious benefit of this arrangement is that the taillights, fuel pump, trunk popper, stereo amp, or whatever don't have to be wired all the way from the dash but only to the local Powercell in the trunk. There are no battery voltage leads connected to any of the switches. Mastercell current to each switch is less than 1 milliamp. With that little bit of power you couldn't start a fire under the dash if you tried. PARTS DESCRIPTION PN PRICE 3-cell starter kit ISIS3BOXZ- Isis $999.00 inLink RF control module ISISRDFMZ- Isis 179.00 inMotion motor controller ISISMRSCZ- Isis 369.00 Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/ccrp-1105-isis-power-system-automotive-wiring-systems/#ixzz3bXtc6g9B Follow us: @HotRodMagazine on Twitter | HotRodMag on Facebook

Good find

It looks beautiful in the Google images I have seen.

Good find. What car and year?

Soda normally costs more and it doesn't touch rusty metal. Also it needs to be neutralized before painting. Be prepared for the paint estimates. When I was looking to get a price for doing a Z they were all over the place. Some as high as $8-9k. The guy I wanted to do it was gonna charge $6k, it just seemed to never get to the front of the line. I don't think he wanted to do it. He mainly does older American iron. I ended up just doing it all myself. Still in progress...

My local blaster does everything from cars to blasting paint off old buildings. I think he charged me $950 for a 240Z. He has a tow behind rig with a diesel compressor. He used sand on my car and it came out fine. You will not have good luck doing this at home. It takes ALOT of air like over a 100 CFM to do a good job. The way it was explained to me, it is about air volume not pressure. He keeps his pressure pretty low like 70 psi and lots of volume and media. This keeps the metal cool and prevents "work hardening". He also never blast straight at panels always at an angle. I have a fairly large home air compressor 60 CFM or so and a 90# pressure pot. I use it for little stuff, but Site is correct it makes a huge mess and is a pain. Normally if I can't fit it in the blasting cabinet I think about farming it out. Charlie Osborne's floor boards work pretty good but I reworked them a little to make them fit more like OEM. Cheaper to sub it out than buy the equipment and do it yourself. Don't get the idea you can do it with a cheap 100 Amp welder; it will just frustrate you.

Can you not remove the turn signal bracket completely or do you need it to support the grill? I would think a few spot welds drilled out and it would come out.

That's a nice looking car, one owner with records.

That's not too bad. I was just thinking it would be nice for them to hear it in person...

How far are from Rebello's shop?

Doug, How is the neck? I saw the xrays which is never a good sign. It's too bad about the car. It looks like you made quite the jump judging by the pictures. I am surprised the car isn't more heavily damaged than it is from both the fire and the jump.

Just remember media blasting works best with the car totally stripped, and the media gets in every little nook and cranny. If you strip the car down and do your work and the car is staying inside you don't need to rattle can. I use Eastwood after blast and the car doesn't rust if it stays dry. If you are gonna drive it you will need to keep the metal coated. Also remember a bad media blasting job will ruin a Z, the metal is very thin!

Blue, Are you in Fiji? My son will be going there for some missionary training soon

Also if it's in the floors, I would be surprised if you don't find some elsewhere. Doglegs, under the battery, wheel arches, inside the rear wheel archs on the front side behind the doglegs, behind the gusset plates on the front frame rails. Look for paint bubbles. If there is a paint bubble, then there is a hole from the back side of the panel.

Auto body painters are at risk of inhaling isocyanates, which include two-part coatings, paints and paint pigments that use a hardener in combination with a catalyst. Sprayed airborne paint chemicals include chromium, cadmium and lead. Primer and sealer paints contain aliphatic isocyanates and ethyl acetate. Clear coat paints contain toluene, petroleum naphtha and mixed dibasic esters. Metal cleaning and body trim work contains epoxy resins, methylene chloride, styrene and adhesive fumes. All of these airborne chemicals can cause respiratory inflammation or disease, as well as skin rashes and inflammations, allergic reactions, nerve and brain damage, nausea, organ failure, headache and vomiting. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_12171111_health-risks-associated-auto-body-painting-materials.html The solvents are explosive so be careful with fans, water heaters and other flame sources. The bigger risk in my opinion are the carcinogens and toxic chemicals. I have done a good bit of body work over the years and I have made my self sick more than once. Respirators help, but a fresh air system is better. Also remember many of the chemicals are absorbed through the skin. Wear gloves and a tyveck suit. That will also help with dust in your paint. I went epoxy instead of self etching. I believe the epoxy is tougher and more rust resistant. Most of the auto restorers I have researched use epoxy on their bare metal. Then buildable primer from there. I am older and my kids are getting grown. You appear to be a young man so you should be even more cautious. You need to stay healthy longer than me.

Chas, Are you gonna put the front signals back in the grill where the bars are shorter? I wanted to do a grill similar to this when I put the airdam on the car I am working on. The factory grill doesn't fill the whole area up when you add the airdam.

If you have rust on the car there is no good way to avoid cutting and welding. I am not talking about the surface rust on the rear quarter, that can be sanded, converted and primed. I use epoxy primer on my projects. It's good stuff, tough and waterproof but you need to be careful with commercial paints. They can be very dangerous!!

The frame rails up front run from part way under the floor boards up to the front of the car. They tend to rust from the inside out or around the gusset plates behind the struts. They didn't seal these areas really well so water gets between the layers of metal and rusts it out. The true factory front rails are basically NLA. You might find some but they will be quite pricey. The "Bad Dog" rails deal with the biggest problem which is the reinforcement of the firewall section of the front frame rails. The Bad Dog rails also go to the back of the floor pans and tie to rear frame section. It is a nice product. Look at Careless's thread. He installed those rails on the project he is working on. I don't know how much shock tower braces stiffen the car but they have to help just because they limit movement of the towers.