Patcon

Thanks

Sounds good. Looking forward to pics

Looks good. Like the mods on the rails

SWMBO Had to look that up, that's funny.... ::

You know in the end the automatics may end up being more marketable and possibly valuable than the stick cars. These days fewer and fewer people can drive a straight drive. Even the truckers are starting to get automatic rigs. Another 15 years and there will be many fewer manuals on the road, at least in the US. The future investor is gonna want a car that they feel comfortable driving.

Where did you source your jet drills?

How would straighten it? Shave it flat or some other method?

Glad you found another head. I hate it that the first one was bad. It was good they took care of you. The crank has some markings on it below the bearing journal that looks like old rust pitting even though they are not black.

That car is in exceptional shape and seems to have very low mileage. In some ways I am surprised it didn't bring more

I couldn't figure out how much a complete tub would cost...

Don't know on the color but I like the wheels and love the bullet mirrors. I am gonna use the same mirrors...

Drop the collision but don't ever drop the "comp" coverage. From Allstates website When people hear the word "comprehensive," they might think "all-encompassing"— but in car insurance terms, the word has a different meaning. Simply put, comprehensive coverage protects you against damages to your car that are the result of covered perils not related to a collision. Think of a scenario that could cause damage to your car that has nothing to do with striking another vehicle. In many cases, this can include: •Theft •Vandalism •Fire •Natural disasters like a hurricane or a tornado •Falling objects •Damage done to your car by animals •A civil disturbance, like a riot that results in damage or destruction of your car As with all insurance policies, you should check with your insurance agent to make sure what perils are included under the comprehensive coverage of your auto insurance policy Comp coverage is cheap; collision is not...

I believe most of the areas that can light the red brake light are normally open switches. That means one is closed. A simple test for narrowing down the issue is to start disconnecting the possible culprits. Pull the wire at the parking brake switch, check the light, pull the connectors at the master cylinder, check the light. Keep doing this until the light goes out. I would have to look at a wiring diagram to know where they all are. By process of elimination you can figure out where the problem lies.

With 2 teenage drivers and 5 cars, maintenance is only the bare essentials. The latest is gonna be rebuilding the transmission in the 95 Suburban. Never done that before, aught to be interesting. My oldest son isn't much help, even with all my instruction he doesn't know a dizzy from a radiator. My oldest daughter, now, she is something, the mind of an engineer. She helped me pull the diff and all the rear drivetrain out of her Z3, weld up camber and toe in retro-fit kits and put it all back. If I'm working on their cars, I won't do it if they won't help. They can walk, I have a car that runs.

Before you bend the arm, lift it all the way up. The limit of travel. Shorting the fuel gauge leads tells you your gauge reads "Full" but the sender might not have low enough resistance when all the way up to read "Full"

I have heard good things about their rails

The goods news is you will probably only work on their cars for a few years; then its off to school or get a job. It goes by fast. I have 2 kids leaving this year. During this time I just try to keep them all running, not perfect just functional.

This is sort of what I am seeing in the project car prices too. What I was hedging at in "$4000 for this" thread. I believe the days of a cheap Z car project are coming to an end. Bitter sweet, would be nice to get the recognition of how great these cars are and the dollars to justify saving them, but I like my cheap Z car projects.

I have found the booster can leak and braking can get longer but the brakes work without the booster, just not as well. If your legs are strong it wouldn't be as noticeable, but a vacuum leak could really throw off that carb. What Madkaw said ^^^^^ It's an easy experiment Blues idea is good too, just a little more work

If I am looking at this right your manifold does not have the balance tube connecting all the throats. Correct? If that is the case disconnect the booster off of the #6 intake and plug the port. See if that helps. If the booster is badly blown it may be causing the lack of draw on #6

Thanks, Steve CO That's funny. I laughed out loud. This car has never really been road worthy. It sort of has Fred Flintstone floorboards among other things. My younger son wants it so we are working towards making it good. I have replaced the passenger floor board already. My older son was on firewatch and let me burn the harness. "It was just smoking some Dad..." It has a fair share of rust which I don't like. Some of it in strange places, like the windshield pillars. We will see. The downdrafts came with the car. Not my favorite but they do tolerate sitting for long periods of time well. Site I believe the crud is probably greasy gunk build up. Sort of home made rust preventative Chickenman Thanks for the tip. That may be what was scorched on the points. I believe the condenser was replaced when I had the shop work on it a while back. The points look fairly new. I will probably replace it anyway as they are very cheap.

Did you use "Bad Dog" rails?

I am assuming from the diagram that I should only have one set of points and only one condenser, because I believe I only have one set of points

Thanks Zed. I will look at that

Thanks Steve The points were sparking when you cranked the car but I should have suspected scorching sooner