Patcon

Thanks for the good pictures. I thought the light brackets would come out like that. Much easier than having to work around them. So the vertical with the slots is Aluminum? Is the all thread stainless or Zinc?

Siteunseen, I was in Northern tool the other day and they had a lot of blast media. The had crushed glass no free silica for like $11 for 40 or 50 lbs. Would cut a little faster than beads but not quite as smooth. They also had "Black Diamond" which I believe is coal slag.

Very good. Glad you figured it out.

I was highly motivated at the time. It was the thing of it can blow up or not but I need to go faster. I was young and dumb, fortunate to be alive. Sort of like all of Site's reconstructions.

Excellent

I made myself sick welding on a late model truck one time. Between the zinc and left over paint burning, I felt ill for weeks. Respirator under the hood would have been advisable

That depends on whether my speedometer was accurate that time I was running flat out. I got above 120mph for a while...

Very good. Like Zed said verify the ports not all of them plumb the same way.

There, that's it. That was exactly what I was thinking of doing! Well done! What did you fab your vertical bars out of, Aluminum?

Werup, That looks great. Very well done

That's funny. I would love to know what the VW had under the hood.

Was there a problem running at 3 psi? I don't totally understand how your fuel is plumbed. I would start with the old fuel pump if that's easy. See what you get. Replace the regulator and see what you get. If it showed pressure before with the old setup then one of the items you changed broke it. Does it run at 0 psi?

I think Grannyknot was suggesting using the seam sealer to hold the metal channel in place sorta like glue to usher the water to the back of the car.

Still it looks great. Thanks

That's a good guess. That would change the throttle linkage position as the motor rocks.

lumens Did a powder coater do that for you?

I do it the same way. Load leveler makes all the difference. My load leveler has a nut I welded on the front so I can adjust it with an impact gun. Much easier than turning the crank by hand.

I totally understand about the wife part. Glad you're doing ok. You would need a good frame man to pull the chassis straight. It would probably cost more than its worth.

I have seen this system in other hotrod type magazines. It's a neat system and if I remember correctly you can add more than one power distribution box. So one could handle the front of the car and one could handle the rear or however you wanted to break it up. Found this: Isis Power At the heart of the Isis Power system is a completely new paradigm for automotive wiring, so for the moment at least, try to set aside your current understanding of what's involved when wiring any car. The brain of the Isis Power automotive wiring system is a completely solid-state unit known as the Mastercell. It accepts the actual On and Off switching of each electrical function and is fully programmable. It can receive input from as many as 50 different switches, sensors, and the like. The Mastercell in turn signals up to five Powercells that control the actual distribution of power. Each Powercell is a localized hub that can be placed in the car as needed. One in the front, somewhere in the engine compartment, and another hidden in the trunk will be adequate for most applications. Each Powercell is wired with two eight-gauge, 60-amp, fused leads from the battery and can supply power for up to 10 different functions. The obvious benefit of this arrangement is that the taillights, fuel pump, trunk popper, stereo amp, or whatever don't have to be wired all the way from the dash but only to the local Powercell in the trunk. There are no battery voltage leads connected to any of the switches. Mastercell current to each switch is less than 1 milliamp. With that little bit of power you couldn't start a fire under the dash if you tried. PARTS DESCRIPTION PN PRICE 3-cell starter kit ISIS3BOXZ- Isis $999.00 inLink RF control module ISISRDFMZ- Isis 179.00 inMotion motor controller ISISMRSCZ- Isis 369.00 Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/ccrp-1105-isis-power-system-automotive-wiring-systems/#ixzz3bXtc6g9B Follow us: @HotRodMagazine on Twitter | HotRodMag on Facebook

Good find

It looks beautiful in the Google images I have seen.

Good find. What car and year?

Soda normally costs more and it doesn't touch rusty metal. Also it needs to be neutralized before painting. Be prepared for the paint estimates. When I was looking to get a price for doing a Z they were all over the place. Some as high as $8-9k. The guy I wanted to do it was gonna charge $6k, it just seemed to never get to the front of the line. I don't think he wanted to do it. He mainly does older American iron. I ended up just doing it all myself. Still in progress...

My local blaster does everything from cars to blasting paint off old buildings. I think he charged me $950 for a 240Z. He has a tow behind rig with a diesel compressor. He used sand on my car and it came out fine. You will not have good luck doing this at home. It takes ALOT of air like over a 100 CFM to do a good job. The way it was explained to me, it is about air volume not pressure. He keeps his pressure pretty low like 70 psi and lots of volume and media. This keeps the metal cool and prevents "work hardening". He also never blast straight at panels always at an angle. I have a fairly large home air compressor 60 CFM or so and a 90# pressure pot. I use it for little stuff, but Site is correct it makes a huge mess and is a pain. Normally if I can't fit it in the blasting cabinet I think about farming it out. Charlie Osborne's floor boards work pretty good but I reworked them a little to make them fit more like OEM. Cheaper to sub it out than buy the equipment and do it yourself. Don't get the idea you can do it with a cheap 100 Amp welder; it will just frustrate you.

Can you not remove the turn signal bracket completely or do you need it to support the grill? I would think a few spot welds drilled out and it would come out.