Patcon

Before you bend the arm, lift it all the way up. The limit of travel. Shorting the fuel gauge leads tells you your gauge reads "Full" but the sender might not have low enough resistance when all the way up to read "Full"

I have heard good things about their rails

The goods news is you will probably only work on their cars for a few years; then its off to school or get a job. It goes by fast. I have 2 kids leaving this year. During this time I just try to keep them all running, not perfect just functional.

This is sort of what I am seeing in the project car prices too. What I was hedging at in "$4000 for this" thread. I believe the days of a cheap Z car project are coming to an end. Bitter sweet, would be nice to get the recognition of how great these cars are and the dollars to justify saving them, but I like my cheap Z car projects.

I have found the booster can leak and braking can get longer but the brakes work without the booster, just not as well. If your legs are strong it wouldn't be as noticeable, but a vacuum leak could really throw off that carb. What Madkaw said ^^^^^ It's an easy experiment Blues idea is good too, just a little more work

If I am looking at this right your manifold does not have the balance tube connecting all the throats. Correct? If that is the case disconnect the booster off of the #6 intake and plug the port. See if that helps. If the booster is badly blown it may be causing the lack of draw on #6

Thanks, Steve CO That's funny. I laughed out loud. This car has never really been road worthy. It sort of has Fred Flintstone floorboards among other things. My younger son wants it so we are working towards making it good. I have replaced the passenger floor board already. My older son was on firewatch and let me burn the harness. "It was just smoking some Dad..." It has a fair share of rust which I don't like. Some of it in strange places, like the windshield pillars. We will see. The downdrafts came with the car. Not my favorite but they do tolerate sitting for long periods of time well. Site I believe the crud is probably greasy gunk build up. Sort of home made rust preventative Chickenman Thanks for the tip. That may be what was scorched on the points. I believe the condenser was replaced when I had the shop work on it a while back. The points look fairly new. I will probably replace it anyway as they are very cheap.

Did you use "Bad Dog" rails?

I am assuming from the diagram that I should only have one set of points and only one condenser, because I believe I only have one set of points

Thanks Zed. I will look at that

Thanks Steve The points were sparking when you cranked the car but I should have suspected scorching sooner

rossiz, I agree its all Blue's fault, but I'm good with it. Now you need to show me the way, because I would love to do the exact same thing. Lot's of pictures please.

Give us a picture of your manifold setup showing the vacuum taps

I would think it threads on. Cutting it off and welding sounds like a bad idea. Even if you can get it welded back on; which you might not be able to do depending on what it's made out of. How are you gonna keep it from rusting? The original is plated. The new welds won't be.

Do you see anything wrong in this picture? Was messing with the car some today, voltage would be good on the coil with the points closed then weird then good... Finally looked at the gap and they were scorched. A little sandpaper to clean then up and it sparks like it should. And the answer is....... No Condenser. Will have to locate one... Now I need to sort the brakes. We rebuilt a booster but the pedal still travels too far. Might start a thread on that... Thanks for everyones help

Coil on plug, Love it. You should have know someone on the forum could count and would comment...

Zed, I don't know, that part doesn't look that bad... I know, duct tape!!!

I would also try Ebay for the wide coverage. Just be careful, no shipping and no title until funds are delivered and verified. I have sold cars to Europe before and most buyers understand the process. Someone who won't deal with your terms is either ignorant or a scammer. I have heard of people losing their cars to scammers because the funds came back bad.

I think Z's are probably cheaper on the West coast. I almost never see them on the road here and the projects I see all have some rust. I agree with Zed, I have the skills and tools for body work and mechanical work but would much rather do mechanical work. Doing rust repairs can be like "root canal" for me

Many times the issues with the exterior lighting is caused by the switches on the steering column or the hazard switch. They carry full current so they tend to get scorched. Read through Hazmats build thread. He reconditioned his recently

I found this on craigslist. Dash for a 72. Looks pretty good. Probably worth what he's asking... http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4977726287.html

Thanks Mike

Love the throttle bodies. Would love to try my hand at that some time.

I agree with SteveJ. If you are working with a relatively low budget, find the most rust free car you can 240z or 260z.

Love the red.