Patcon

Once the heat shield is polished is there a way to keep them from reoxidizing? I would think clear coats would yellow or cook... Charles

Is the area in the picture the problem? Is the problem aesthetic as it appears? It doesn't seem to be rusty. Most people that have a car with a really clean frame rails are driving them. Most cars that are available to cut are already heavily rusted in this area... Charles

Pig nose rings...Ouch!

Also I would think you would want to add the hose mount to the frame of the car. I had to add it on my car. It holds the connection from the hard line to the flex hose on the frame side of the car, below the battery on the inside of the frame rail. C

I used the Eastwood internal frame coating on the Z I have on the rotisserie. It is a thin green material that runs very easily. It also dries very fast. I sprayed it into every area I could think of and rotated the car around to get gravity to help coat everything well. I bought several cans but sometimes things wait a long time before I get to them. Two cans sat for about a year on the shelf, when I went to use them they acted dead and I couldn't get them to work. Eastwood wouldn't do anything for me. I think 30 days is there limit. So if you buy some, use it, don't let it sit. Also I have an undercoater gun I bought from them and some bulk internal frame coating in a quart. That was a waste of money. The air running through the gun dries the material in the nozzle!!! I even tried thinning it and never could make that setup work. A total waste of money. The undercoater gun works ok because I used it to apply Lizard Skin in the interior. The aerosol cans work good and with the long hoses you can reach most areas. I did in the structure of the hood, especially the nose, the rockers and doglegs, up over the wheels arches, the structure sections under the rear floor and the frame rails out front and under the floor... Charles

Alan, I wasn't trying to suggest he designed the car. I was thinking more along the lines that he would have had some input into the products that were created and what they would look like... I may be wrong. Charles

What a great full life. Designing great cars, 105 years old, just great... C

I had a Stahl header on a 70's BMW six. It was beautiful and sounded great. Loved it... C

If we are talking about the same thing. They probably come through the front upper frame rails, like they do on the 240Z. The black accordion boots that pass through the radiator support on each side funnel air into the frame rails that comes out through the footwell vents. Charles

I like the idea but I have less than no free time. It would also be more fun if I had a running Z... Charles

What kind of cost? It will vary regionally but it might be nice to see what State Farm offers for !5k of coverage. If you don't mind sharing... Charles

Got sub $2 for a little while here but has edged back up recently. C

What would be the best method to verify. Micrometer in different areas on both edges? How would you verify consistent curvature? Does that matter? C

That sounds fun, too bad I am on the other side of the US. C

PM sent

Thanks Zed Didn't know about the change... Charles

Absolutely. Also a "DWG" file posted would be great too. I don't know that I can handle an AutoCAD 13 file but I have an older version of AutoCAD LT that I use all the time. Some of the other technically employed people probably have access to large format printers to make a nice sized copy. Charles

I have a question. I was thinking of coming up on Friday and Saturday. Unfortunately I wont have a Z running but it would be nice to meet people in person and see some nice looking cars. Should I register or not? What will be the difference? C

I have all the tools you are talking about but would never attempt to straighten my own car. The frame rack gives a great datum line to work off of and has zero flex. So when you pull or push against it the measurements are correct. The welds you put into the car to do floorboards or sheet metal repairs are harder than the original metal. It is probably best to get the car checked and straight then do one side at a time. Be sure to put the transmission crossmember in so the tunnel doesn't move on you. I commented on how I did my floor boards on another thread. When they were done they looked factory. At the moment I don't recall which thread and am too tired to figure it out... C

Thanks, Steve I googled it but the link I came up with was just a white page... C

I am having trouble getting on the Zcon website. Diseazd where did you register? Do you have a working link? Thanks, Charles

Nice looking 280... Charles

Yeah you would hate to spend that kind of money and not have them last... Charles

Very good. Enjoy the pretty weather. 102 mph on the water is "hauling the mail"! Charles

Zed Head I looked at that link and went well $725 is more but not terrible, then I realized that was for the L4 and that the L6 price was $1040. So it is substantially more but for really great rockers maybe, but from my first glance it is interesting to me that the profile of the new arm is so much different from the original. I am making some assumptions but I would think the original factory rockers would have been fairly heavily engineered since they are pretty crucial and have a lot of stress on them. The thickened section on the original near the pivot side of the pad suggests that is where the maximum bending stress is in the rocker, so it was made deeper to resist that bending or out right failure. So can the redesigned rocker arm survive with out that extra metal? How? Better metal? Harder? Just curious... Charles