Patcon

Do the Nissan heads not use a pressed in cam bearing? I have never looked that close...The one with the deep grooves are pretty deep. I wouldn't think sanding them out would be a good idea. If there is no bearing then replace the towers or have them line bored and add a bearing sleeve.

Did you ever try the Eastwood forum or Kevin Tetz "Paintucation" forum. Either one can probably get you pointed in the right direction. Also Isocyanates can be dangerous. Good respirator and ventilation are important!

That little stirring feeling I have deep inside may be machinists lathe envy...

Absolutely, particulars would be great! How long did you yellow chromate? Did you use any blue chromate? What was your prep routine?

I believe there are different plates available...You may need to check to see which one you need.

If you're not gonna autocross or do anything crazy, why go coilover at all? It is one of the most involved suspension mods available...

The cars you see peeling are normally from other issues. Poor prep or faulty products. Buy good products and you will be ok.

Zup's got a 300zxtt???? What else is he hiding?

The 3M stuff is good. It's a little pricey for a hobbyist but I will probably go the same route when I start blocking.

There is a fairly new product for guide coating called dry guide coat. It is a dry powder you spread on the surface. There are several companies that make it. I agree with Chuck buy good plastic filler. Evercoat makes several different ones. I buy the most expensive one I can afford. There is not that much difference in price in the big scheme of this. I think I am using Rage Gold Extreme currently. Works well and sands easily. You can guide coat with cheap black paint too. If you buy dry guide coat, one can will last a hobbyist forever.

There is another thread about rebuilding these using a similar pump. I would find it but lost all my subscriptions

The tank looks great

Looks great. I am 5 years in and just a little behind you. You are doing great work. Looks good. I hope to be wheels down in the spring. I am even in the same color family...

But when you look at the video there are never any black streaks behind the Z like he has no brakes...

Is your return line hooked up? Have you tried pumping fuel into a container to check volume and flow?

Wanted to be sure you saw the last post...

Be sure you have the capacitor on your points or they will scorch quickly and kill your spark.

Let us know if that does the trick...

Check your belts. That is normally a belt squeaking. If you are pulling a lot of power its the alternator belt squeaking. Check that the belts are tight and not old and hard...

Thanks

The problem is I'm getting old and can't even remember what I had subscribed to. Bushing threads, motor threads, I can't even remember them all of them...

CO is right, moving the spindle may make things harder for you. If it is set properly then it is not overly important to correct right now. When you reclock the spindle the timing will have to be totally reset of the engine won't start. Look in the FSM under setting timing. The light is hooked to spark plug one and flashes when it fires. Shine the flashing light on the end of the crankshaft. The strobe effect will show when the spark plug fires relative to the timing marks. Set per the manuals instructions.

I am trying to find my thread subscriptions so I can look at some older threads that had good info in them. On my personal profile, I assume my subscribed threads are under "content I follow" but when I go there, there are almost no subscribed threads. Did I lose all my subscriptions when the website moved over to the new format? That would really suck as I had 30-40 really cool threads I had saved over the years...

Andreas, Thanks for that. It sounds great. What is your engine setup?

Sometimes the sway bar is in the way and has to be lowered. It is easier with two people. when you lower the oil pump, oil is gonna want to drip every where. You will need a catch pan. The spindle rotates as it disengages, so you have to lower it to disengage and rotate it some then push it up to reengage, until it is in the correct position like Lumens posted in #19. Once it is clocked correctly reinstall the oil pump bolts. The you will have to reset the ignition timing.