Jump to content

Patcon

Subscriber
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Patcon

  1. I would think the cam and valve overlap would play a part in that also... Charles
  2. Welcome, the car looks good. where are you gonna start? Charles
  3. As for the old cars and double pumper. Many four barrel carbs and some 2 barrels have an accelerator pump. double pumpers have 2 pumps, hence double pumpers. When the throttle is depressed the pump is operated by a cam and pumps fuel into the carb throat thru a jet. So in actuality you can pump fuel with the throttle on some cars. That is why she stepped on the throttle, to prime the car so it would start. Also on many older cars you have to depress the throttle all the way to the floor to set the choke. Doing it twice can knock the choke off. FWIW Charles
  4. Patcon replied to nismospek's post in a topic in Video Center
    I like the fender flares on that car. Are those Spirit garages or possibly some other vendor. I know Blue was looking when he was in Japan a while back. Maybe he can chime in... Charles
  5. Engine is in it. You can see the alternator in the picture of the coil overs. Also the car would sit higher if the engine bay was empty. From the details it probably has a Nissan L6. Would be nice to see though. Wonder if it has the original EFI or some other setup
  6. Patcon replied to Perth 240's post in a topic in 240K Skyline
    I wonder if heat would help with the glue? Charles
  7. Patcon posted a post in a topic in Internet Finds
    Don't know if anyone is interested. I have enough stuff laying around already but thought someone might be interested Charles 1970 - 1995 240Z, 280Z &ZX, 300ZX parts
  8. Thanks for the lead on the machine shop. I like to drive so a couple hours or so is just a Sunday drive. Charles
  9. So consumer gps is accurate to what 3 yards? How big an error can gps give over a 0-60 distance if 3 yards on either end is the margin of error? This is not for Road & Track just trying to get a number that's close... Charles
  10. I have struggled in my area to find a good machine shop. Many of them are setup like production body shops and don't want to mess with vintage heads. I have even had a chevy 350 block sit in a machine shop for weeks waiting to get my turn. Have gotten frustrated and gone someplace else. So some of my comment is based on whether you can find a competent machine shop and get a decent turnaround. Our engines are really not that hard to machine. The heads can be harder to do because the geometry and wear patterns need to be right. For good head work I would probably look to one of the reputable builders since that is where the power is, but be sure and bring your wallet. Charles
  11. Speaking of moving the car. I have an app on my phone called SpeedView on Android. I got it for ground speed to calibrate my boat's speedos but it will also do 0-60 times...my be interesting. Charles
  12. Patcon replied to 240260280z's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I really believe a pickup truck that was 100% domestic would not be purchased because the price would be too high. MSRP on an 014 F-150 is $25k with no options an F-350 is $31,00. Those are bare bones work trucks, not pretty trucks which can easily reach $50k. Would you pay $100K for a new F350? Trucks are already fairly expensive and the 40,50 or 100% premium for American made would be more than consumers could justify. Just my 2 cents... Charles
  13. It totally depends on your machine shop. The rest of the work you would likely self perform can be done in a long day or two. Charles
  14. Patcon replied to gira's post in a topic in Carburetor Central
    Now I have Pantera envy... Charles
  15. Patcon replied to Burl's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    you can buff the glass with some meguiars mirror glaze on low speed and take that scratch out... Charles
  16. Charlie, I can't tell you exactly because its been a while since I disassembled one, but I believe the after market evaporator is in the way of getting to the heater core. Not an easy job and gets harder as I get older... Charles
  17. Yes, absolutely replaceable but for the most part I believe NOS rails are unavailable as far as I know. Lots of work and you would really want to do it on a frame rack to make it easier and straight. Lots of spot welds to cut out and reweld. Several hundred I would think and you would have to take a lot of the interior out of floor boards to deal with the heat from rewelding. It would have to be a very special car for me to be willing to do all the work. I have done welding projects half this ambitious and have learned I hate cutting spot welds! Charles
  18. I enjoyed it. Amazed at the amount of money it took to set the car up and 270Hp sounded great. Would love to know how they made that power... Charles
  19. Ah, now that makes sense... C
  20. Just be careful of the bright flashes and weird thoughts.. Oh! Different LSD, enjoy the curves C
  21. I love BMW inline sixes and currently own 4 different BMW's with sixes. The engine is bullet proof because it has been around for years and an M motor makes great usable power. As I typed this though I had a thought. At one time our Z's were a dime a dozen now a number of years later they are starting to appreciate in value. If you keep your car whole and wait for all the other guys to part or crash their cars, yours will appreciate. I hate to see a nice car parted unless its a rusted out hulk...the same way I hate to see a classic Z parted or crushed... Charles
  22. I am more on the 26th side. Real wire wheels, most of the details look original. of 38 million 100k is only .2% that seems pretty cheap for a decent looking replica Charles
  23. Cool Charles
  24. Some more info on parts numbers or source vehicles would make this thread more valuable in the future...when shims are needed in the future. Charles
  25. I agree with ajmcforester, it will be hard to keep the heat down enough to weld it without turning the chrome blue from the heat. Also I agree why did it break? Did it rust and break or break from stress? If you want to risk it and try welding it you might be able to buff the chrome and polish the blue back out. I am assuming the blue is a form of oxidation so it shouldn't be very deep. Whether the chrome is thick enough to allow sufficient buffing I have no idea. On second thought if the break is not directly on the back of the chrome face bar and you have some distance you might could place it in water or on top of an ice pack. Can you get a picture of the break with the bumper off? Charles

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.