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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. Patcon replied to ColoradoZ's topic in Help Me !!
    Find a good frame shop and have them put it on the rack. If it's not too bad it should be an easy fix.
  2. Stanley That makes perfect sense and the lighter driveshaft is always good.
  3. Patcon replied to westpak's topic in Introductions
    I have gone a very similar route but it has taken me 3 years longer...
  4. Thanks, Steve. So if you have that many and the other guy had 3 do you tell the software how many pulses make a complete revolution?
  5. What exactly are you looking for?
  6. So you just have to dimple the flywheel to get a tone, not drill all the way through? Who drilled it for you? Machine shop? How accurate do they have to be and was rebalancing necessary?
  7. Patcon replied to glassguy's topic in Help Me !!
    Very cool. Glad you fixed it.
  8. Thanks Steve. I will look for links
  9. The kits are expensive. Just call a windshield repair guy. That is your cheapest bet if your windshield isn't covered by insurance.
  10. Steve The sensor is in the backing plate, but what triggers the sensor? Can you get some more pictures of the setup as it goes in. I like the idea of this type of trigger wheel.
  11. If I remember correctly the water tubes are steel threaded into aluminum intakes. With water inside you get terrible galvanic corrosion making them hard to separate later...
  12. Cork gaskets do not like to be over tightened. That is many times the reason for failure.
  13. He was evidently 54. I hate to hear that and his knowledge will be missed. That is going to become a bigger and bigger problem as these great vendors get older.
  14. I wouldn't replace it until I was sure it wasn't original. Jim's car has an E31 but it is 2000 units earlier. Start there...
  15. www.240zrubberparts.com Have you checked his site. I believe it will be fairly up to date, knowing Steve...
  16. Patcon replied to glassguy's topic in Help Me !!
    I wouldn't think a clutch would be toast after 2500 km unless you were doing high rev launches over and over. That's like 1,500 miles even a sorry clutch aught to hold up longer than that. I think you are looking in the right area from the sounds of it.
  17. I agree with Jim, also in the future instead of buying a new driveshaft. We have a local company that rebuilds shafts and balances them. It's a pretty common thing for heavier trucks and racecars. I am sure you have a similar service in your area. Cheaper than a new driveshaft. Like $60 for 2 u joints and a balance
  18. I am no engine expert but I would think you would want zero leakage past the valves. If the intake or exhaust valves leak then you won't reach 9:1 compression or whatever as the build up in pressure will bleed back into the intake or exhaust manifold, whichever is leaking. The need to seal really well which is why valve lapping is sometimes necessary
  19. I am surprised you didn't pull the shifter before removing the engine. It makes it easier to get the chunk out without damaging anything. I love the 6" trench drain. The metal grate is nice too. Looks good
  20. Thanks Site I wonder if I have one of those lying around, I mean I wonder if I can find one of those I have lying around...
  21. No "thread jacking" please...
  22. Looks good. I love new parts. So clean... So shiny...
  23. Site That's pretty glossy. Obviously glossier than the crossmember and dust shield. I will aim for the gloss finish I already have. That will prevent so much rework. Thanks Guys
  24. Cliff, Is "gloss", really glossy or sort of glossy?

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