Patcon

Has it ever run right for you with these carbs? Or said another way is it a new problem or is this how you got the car? If it is a new problem I would check: fuel pressure, clean fresh fuel, dirt in float bowls. If it is an old problem I would check these same after I cleaned the carbs....the new fuel does not store well and may have gummed up the idle jets... Charles

Leon, The thought was along the lines of pinging is a lean condition so more fuel eliminates pinging and gets a mixture ratio more in an acceleration range or 12.5-13.5. The larger displacement of the 2.8 requires more air which is easier to accomplish thru three dcoe type carbs than two single bore carbs without raising velocities a lot higher. It seems triples tend to run some what rich and at the DCOE Yahoo group that is the way they suggest running them. Lastly gasoline is being converted to power, so to make a lot of power it takes more fuel. That is why even new cars with crazy amounts of power with modern systems don't get fabulous fuel mileage because the engine needs a certain amount of fuel. Just my deductions... Charles

If I break a hidden nut loose the only good fix is like you did where you get access to the back and weld it back on... Charles

I thought those were very reasonable numbers too for a moderate build. I would think you will put down some more power on the triples because they should tend to be a little richer and power requires fuel... the pinging would indicate that too. Charles

Dip the new tap in cutting oil or motor oil and don't force it. It will cut better if lubricated and they are very hard which tends to make them brittle. As you have found out they don't bend they break. If the other bolt breaks in the other rocker drill it out and even if the hole gets a little off center or a little too large as long as the tap has something to bite it will cut new threads. If the new threads are not full depth just don't over tighten the new bolt so as not to strip them. Also this is a good location for anti-seize... also I have found if you use too much force on these hidden nuts you can actually break them loose from the panel which is also a pain... Charles

That's too bad you missed out. Did someone on the site buy it? It would be nice to see its progress. As for restoring with out the early parts. Most could be replaced with later parts until suitable early parts could be found to take their place. IE steering wheel, front glass, rear hatch, vents, emblems, etc. I do hope it went to a good home and is not getting parted... Charles

Not very much the way it sits. Most people would consider it a parts car unless the rust is limited to the floors and no where else... C

I assume that HP number is at the wheels...? C

Make sure the slave cylinder is returning all the way. If the fluid can't flow back freely it will cause that clutch slippage... Is there supposed to be a return spring on the 73' cars? Charles

I would love to take that car on and have seriously thought about it but just can't do it right now. Charles

That's a neat color it aught to look great. Charles

I'll look in the shop and see what I have. I may send you some pics... Charles

In one of the other threads Blue posted one of the guys found a similar discrepancy in the rear frame rails... C

Thanks for the help last night Blue. I picked the car up today. He had it all squared up and level. The bolts for the front bumper are not exactly right but if he pulled that section it would throw off the fender. I'll make the bumper work. He said the car had been pulled before and that it had been hit in the front from the drivers side. The dimensions of the factory diagram are "more like guidelines anyway..." the tension rod sockets were different from the diagram by 10mm but both were even and he said they hadn't moved. Also the shock towers were 10mm higher than the diagram. There evidently were some fairly large tolerances on frame assembly as long at it was all even. Charles

If I read their web pages correctly F-102 is for all Nissan models up to 1989. I like the idea but I hadn't heard of them before... Charles

How good does the hatch need to be Blue? C

That's great. Since these cars are so light adding just a little power goes a long way. Gearing helps too. Charles

There are several lower dollar upgrades. Some very good stickies over at Hybrid Z in the brakes section that are very comprehensive. Then there are some higher dollar upgrades like Wilwoods. The stock drums are evidently very good but I plan to switch to rear disc. The only problems I really ever had with my Z's back when I had one that actually ran was brake fade in the mountains when they got hot. I plan to upgrade to drilled disc with Toyota calipers with 15/16ths master cylinder to start with and may go with vented Toyota calipers if needed. Charles

Steve, Watched your video, it sounded like you chirped 3rd gear. Looked like a lot of fun. Do you know what you are putting down at the wheels? Charles

So the line you high lighted in blue must be the hump in the floor board which comes back near the rear seat supports. That would also explain the little angle at the rear of the frame rail coming up to the dashed line you high lighted because it comes up into the hump at the rear. Agree? C

I think I would upgrade brakes in there somewhere before pretty parts. It is good to be able to go; it's better to be able to stop! C

Ended zero bids. Car looks really complete... No bondo, some Evercoat "Rage" but no "Bondo". Passenger fender looked rusted on the inside lip above the fuel filter... C

Ewwww. That's a good place for a "stick up"... Charles

Spring compressors are cheap compared to medical bills and I obviously don't heal like a young man might... Charles

How do you know which line is the floor line? I guess I can measure from the tranny support and compare that to the 86 mm to determine what the reference is...? C