Patcon

Thanks for the lead on the machine shop. I like to drive so a couple hours or so is just a Sunday drive. Charles

So consumer gps is accurate to what 3 yards? How big an error can gps give over a 0-60 distance if 3 yards on either end is the margin of error? This is not for Road & Track just trying to get a number that's close... Charles

I have struggled in my area to find a good machine shop. Many of them are setup like production body shops and don't want to mess with vintage heads. I have even had a chevy 350 block sit in a machine shop for weeks waiting to get my turn. Have gotten frustrated and gone someplace else. So some of my comment is based on whether you can find a competent machine shop and get a decent turnaround. Our engines are really not that hard to machine. The heads can be harder to do because the geometry and wear patterns need to be right. For good head work I would probably look to one of the reputable builders since that is where the power is, but be sure and bring your wallet. Charles

Speaking of moving the car. I have an app on my phone called SpeedView on Android. I got it for ground speed to calibrate my boat's speedos but it will also do 0-60 times...my be interesting. Charles

I really believe a pickup truck that was 100% domestic would not be purchased because the price would be too high. MSRP on an 014 F-150 is $25k with no options an F-350 is $31,00. Those are bare bones work trucks, not pretty trucks which can easily reach $50k. Would you pay $100K for a new F350? Trucks are already fairly expensive and the 40,50 or 100% premium for American made would be more than consumers could justify. Just my 2 cents... Charles

It totally depends on your machine shop. The rest of the work you would likely self perform can be done in a long day or two. Charles

Now I have Pantera envy... Charles

you can buff the glass with some meguiars mirror glaze on low speed and take that scratch out... Charles

Charlie, I can't tell you exactly because its been a while since I disassembled one, but I believe the after market evaporator is in the way of getting to the heater core. Not an easy job and gets harder as I get older... Charles

Yes, absolutely replaceable but for the most part I believe NOS rails are unavailable as far as I know. Lots of work and you would really want to do it on a frame rack to make it easier and straight. Lots of spot welds to cut out and reweld. Several hundred I would think and you would have to take a lot of the interior out of floor boards to deal with the heat from rewelding. It would have to be a very special car for me to be willing to do all the work. I have done welding projects half this ambitious and have learned I hate cutting spot welds! Charles

I enjoyed it. Amazed at the amount of money it took to set the car up and 270Hp sounded great. Would love to know how they made that power... Charles

Ah, now that makes sense... C

Just be careful of the bright flashes and weird thoughts.. Oh! Different LSD, enjoy the curves C

I love BMW inline sixes and currently own 4 different BMW's with sixes. The engine is bullet proof because it has been around for years and an M motor makes great usable power. As I typed this though I had a thought. At one time our Z's were a dime a dozen now a number of years later they are starting to appreciate in value. If you keep your car whole and wait for all the other guys to part or crash their cars, yours will appreciate. I hate to see a nice car parted unless its a rusted out hulk...the same way I hate to see a classic Z parted or crushed... Charles

I am more on the 26th side. Real wire wheels, most of the details look original. of 38 million 100k is only .2% that seems pretty cheap for a decent looking replica Charles

Cool Charles

Some more info on parts numbers or source vehicles would make this thread more valuable in the future...when shims are needed in the future. Charles

I agree with ajmcforester, it will be hard to keep the heat down enough to weld it without turning the chrome blue from the heat. Also I agree why did it break? Did it rust and break or break from stress? If you want to risk it and try welding it you might be able to buff the chrome and polish the blue back out. I am assuming the blue is a form of oxidation so it shouldn't be very deep. Whether the chrome is thick enough to allow sufficient buffing I have no idea. On second thought if the break is not directly on the back of the chrome face bar and you have some distance you might could place it in water or on top of an ice pack. Can you get a picture of the break with the bumper off? Charles

I might need a translator for the dyno graph as my German is very limited. I like the TVR it seems to be a fairly new car and I haven't taken car magazines for years so I don't see the newer cars. I love the lines from three sides but don't like all the holes in the rear panel. Very quick though. C

My favorite way of describing these kind of things is "tuition" ie the cost of learning at one of these institutions Charles

And there were some nice cars there... C

Still love em. Seems like the way they should all be... C

What was the car at the end of post number one? I didn't recognize it... C

Looks great. Keep it waxed and in the garage and you could go a long time before paint. C

I would love to see some dyno numbers or some idea of what the engine makes. By the way, love those Euro taillights... Charles