Patcon

How long is it noisy? Is it noisy only on the first start up or for several start ups? More details? C

Bad grounds would be my first suspicion. One of the grounds on the front end of the car is corroded and the current is finding the path of least resistance. Going through the other light to ground is easier than going through the corroded ground. Just a thought... Charles

You don't have to paint the areas you strip if the car doesn't get wet. Ospho or Eastwood "After Blast" will prevent flash rust as long as the car isn't exposed to the rain. It also means your don't have to deal with the rattle can paint which can cause problems later. FWIW... Charles

If I were gonna do it. I would drill out the spots at the rear apron to the quarter panel and cut through the floor to separate the quarters and the rear apron from each other. I would separate the floors from the rockers by drilling those spots as well. Separate the front clip in the same way or just cut it off since it is damaged. My 2 cents... Charles

The drivers side frame rail would probably be a hard fix. The bowed frame could probably be pulled by a good frame shop. We buy a good many salvage cars and rework them. We have a frame guy that is amazing. It would be interesting to show those pictures to a good frame man in your area to see what they think. If I were going to do it myself I would replace the front frame rails or front clip entirely. If the car is really clean every where else it might be worth it, otherwise use what you can and recycle the rest. I just hate to see a Z that isn't all eaten up with rust get scrapped, but they can't all be saved. Charles

How bad is the frame? We straighten frames all the time. Where is it damaged? Charles

Steve, Looks great as always... Charles

3m makes a lot of body shop epoxies many of the late model cars are actually assembled with some panel epoxies. That would probably work to patch a sunroof especially if you flanged the new panel with a flanging tool. It would require less filler that way. I don't know about longevity though. But there would be no heat, sparks, warpage or possible fire and would be easier for the do it yourselfer. Charles

Always good to be legal and road worthy. It will be good driving weather soon... C

To be quite honest I have never seen that part in person. I have worked on a number of Z's. Do they all have it? I know someone who is going to want them if they belong there. Would need some to copy though... Did you try "buynissanparts.com" use the part number Charles

I hate spending the time but I have never cared for sunroofs in a Z. Will it bother you is the question... Charles

You ought to be able to get floors for about $350 a pair with the correct stampings... C

I would use a thin flat putty knife and scrape the foam loose from the roof skin. Check that its big enough to reposition and reglue with spray on headliner adhesive. I don't think heating it is a good idea... C

Lots of good parts. Hate to see another car get parted especially a fairly low number car. Too far for me... C

It appears you are in Arizona so I would think evaporation is working against you and the mechanical pump takes a while at cranking speeds to fill every thing up... Charles

Although I see you are in the UK shipping might be an issue for such an inexpensive item... C

They appear to still be an available dealer item. A couple of bucks. Use the part number and check Courtesy Nissan online... Charles

The roof skin can certainly be replaced. You could patch in the sunroof area but it will be hard to weld it all up and not oil can (warp) the roof panel. To replace the whole roof skin the windshield and hatch would have to come off. All the spot welds across the top of the windshield and the top of the hatch and the drip rails would have to be drilled out about a 100 or so. Then the new roof skin welded in. You would actually leave the subframe of the roof in place which would hold the shape of the car. It is not that complicated but it is a good bit of work. Patching is easier but bondo will be necessary to make it look good... Charles

Thanks John but I don't know that either. I understand the other two aspect of front end alignment but not what the tension rod length affects. Charles

How does caster adjustment affect a 240z? Charles

Rockauto I looked up an 83' turbo I couldn't find what car you're working on in your profile, but there is a large assortment of boots under the drivetrain tab... Charles

Some how that makes me happy I treasure nice quarter panels these days. As they get rarer and rarer every year... Charles

I also second Madkaw's question. I assume you assembled the bottom end did you plasti-gage or mic your clearances? C

I agree the head sounds flat but is the block flat, clean, true. Are all the head bolt holes tapped and chased. Did you use any lubricant on the head bolts. I don't know what the FSM recommends but ARP bolts require lube to get the right torque values. A small dose of stop leak might be an easy way out... Charles

I hate that. I have built a number of engines Z's and others. I agree the bearing clearances on a polished crank running standard bearings should be on the loose side not too tight. I am curious to see which bearings or whether it's all of them. Take some pictures of each bearing and keep them in order. I have had motors destroyed like this but from different circumstances. I have one motor I built that has excessive oil pressure that I have yet to identify. I tend to agree that you had a blockage or partial blockage somewhere, junk out of the filter, a piece of gasket or a loose piece of RTV something. If the bearings are evenly worn and cooked It would have to be a serious blockage to blank the whole crank. Remember that you may not be able to remove the bearings from the crank. I had one fail like that too, they were welded on. I really feel for the loss of time, parts and machine work. Charles