Patcon

Pjoe, Is that a metallic gray color? I was interested in painting components separately but was concerned the flake would lay differently on each panel and look different when reassembled. I would love to know how well they match when reassembled. They look really good in the photos. Did you use basecoat/clearcoat or single stage? Thanks, Charles

I found this link on Scribd. It had the whole manual. Had to pay a nominal fee to download, but glad to have it. http://www.scribd.com/doc/67088157/240Z-Automatic-Transmission-Manual Charles

The 71 supplemental didn't have anything in it. I didn't try any of the others because I don't have Zip utility. I hadn't remembered Xenon... Thanks, Charles

I recently purchased a factory 1971 Nissan Service manual. I was surprised that there was no section on rebuilding the automatic transmission. I have one 240z that is getting redone with the factory automatic transmission. I was trying to find the info on how to rebuild the tranny. Was there a supplemental service manual or possibly another vehicle that had the same tranny and would have the info for the rebuild work. Thanks, Charles

I have a front clip that I can look at I don't know how clean it is? Charles

You can view the page at http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?139-e-brake-emergency-park-parking-brake-cable-repair

I got to messing with this again. I rebalanced the carbs and checked advance. At 800 rpms there is 18-19 degrees of advance. I can't get it to run much below that. If I lift the rear SU piston there is no change. If I lift the front SU piston it starts to stall and will if I don't set it down quickly enough. Is this a rear fueling issue or spark.? Thoughts? Thanks, Charles

Just for info I have bought cars before without a title. there are several title companys that do this kind of work. You can find info on there websites for what they can and can not do. You have to sign a stetment that to your knowledge the car is not stolen. Provide a bill of sale and about $300. They provide a title that you can take to the DMV and get a title for your particular state. FWIW

The vaccum advance is disconnected as most people find that total advance is too much on the 280zx dizzy conversion Charles

Thanks, That gives me a direction to start in. Charles

I don't believe it is a cam timing issue. Possibly valve train but the car had Weber DGV's on it a couple of months ago and seemed to rev much more freely. I am running ATF for dashpot oil. Possibilities that come to mind were timing, not advancing fast enough. Weak spark, mixture, dash pot oil. I just wasn't sure of the best direction to start or most logical. I would expect the 280ZX dizzy to spool pretty quickly because of the full voltage coil and hotter spark. Just looking for ideas and a point in the right direction. Charles

I am working on a 240z with an engine that has very few miles on an old rebuild. I have new Z therapy carbs and have them fairly well sorted now with Scotts's help. I also have the 280ZX dizzy conversion. The engine will rev but not real snappy like I remember. Ideas? Where to start? I will have to double check my initial timing advance but believe it is in the 12-15 degree range. The centrifugal advance is wroking and the vacuum advance is disconnected. Thanks, Charles

"The door is buckled and the rear has been hit but no frame damage"???? Maybe not... $5200 seems kind of steep for a car that needs metal work and paint, but it is a low number car. No pictures though. I always figure if I see a CL add and there are no pictures the seller is not serious about selling the car. Charles

The piece can probably be made in multiple pieces if they get welded togethor properly. You are likely to find when you remove the plate there is a big hole in the frame rail underneath. That area between the plates is not galvanized or painted from the factory and rust in these areas is a problem. I might have a plate I can hook you up with if you are interested, send me a PM Charles

Sorry for the high jack support but if you are going to prime over bare metal, use epoxy primer after metal prep and degreaser. It is available in black, tan and white by most manufacturers. Bonds to almost anything and is water proof to protect the metal. Most other 2k primers are not truly water proof. FWIW Charles Now back to your regularly scheduled program...

Sil-Glyde is a silicone based brake lubricant. The down side to using it on any weatherstrip areas is the painted surfaces that are nearby or come in to contact with it will have silicone contamination, and repainting those areas later will be very difficult if possible at all. The areas with silicone will fisheye badly. Silicone is one of those products that once on the painted surfaces is very hard to get rid of. Rain X is another product that works great on glass but should be used carefully to avoid contaminating paint. Charles

Sorry double post, the system must have Burped... Charles

Does "standard nickel" refer to the finish? Charles

Why can't the speedo be recalibrated with one of the other color speedo drives? If you know what color you have, you have all the info (displayed speed and actual speed) to calculate which color to use, or am I missing something... Charles

I believe the ones in the door jamb are close to 3/32's. I bought a box to put the plate back after paint. I would think the dash is the same size but don't know. The downside is I had to buy a box maybe 50. If you want me to mail you some pm me. Charles

I am not too worried about chipping issues the car will be used carefully. The many Z suspension parts that I have laying around are all 40 or so years old and none of them have any signifigant coorosion. Many of them still have the original black paint that is not nearly as good as the newer catalyzed paints. All of my suspension parts will get epoxy primer then single stage flattened as needed. Just wanted a good starting point for flattening. The car is a total rotisserie restoration. I will deviate in some areas, but many things will be done in a more correct manner. All of the hardware is back from the platers and it is time to start painting and reassembling the supension. Thanks for the idea though... Thanks, Charles

Everything I have read says epoxy first, body work then epoxy again or sealer coat. You could spent some time on the paintuction forum or the eastwood forum if you wanted to get some more opinions. There tend to be a good number of full time painters on those forums... Charles

I have done some searchng and I remember reading some threads where the poster had used gloss black on the supension pieces with flattener added. I can't find those threads but I was wondering how much flattener they used. The gloss black Nason I have is flattened after being catalyzed and reduced. 1:1 reduced paint to flattener is 100% flat. I don't know how flat the suspension is supposed to be and wanted some advise from those who had done it. Thanks, Charles

What type of polish did you use? What kind of wheel speeds with the polish? Did you have any problems burning the plastic while polishing? Charles

Blue, that car looks pretty clean On the CL car is that a big dent in the rear bumper??? Charles