Patcon

@SteveJ I was Ohming out the radio antennae cables today. They have some areas that seem damaged and I wanted to make sure they were ok. The outside of the jacket rings out but the center conductor of the antennae cable shows as OL. I tested two different cables the same way and both did the same thing. Should the center core show continuity?

I think evaporust is much more predictable. It removes rust with out the really acidic pH levels

I suspect the problem is a rust problem. Inside the pivot there is a steel bushing. If the rubber seals go bad, water gets down in there and starts to corrode it together. When the metal rusts, it expands. A penetrant oil might help but I suspect the rust will have to be dealt with

Do not hammer on them! They will break. I would heat the outside of the pivot and add a lubricant like dutch suggested. Use some soft jaws or some copper padding in a vise to hold the bottom steel part. Heat the pot metal part with a heat gun. Add lubricant. Use some pliers to try to get it to rotate free. Keep rotating until its loose. I don't know if you can use something like Evaporust? It might damage the pot metal of the pivots. Maybe you could use some Evaporust but just apply it with a dropper on the pivot. With some patience I have had good success getting the loose. But no hammers...😁

Well, either you're living a duel life by day and night or your wife's been using your computer! If it's your wife that may work out ok yet! 😉

I agree, beautiful work as always!

That's cool. There are a lot of creative guys there!

So I had a great visit with Steve Nixon today of 240zrubberparts.com. It was a great time and I got to see the progress of his car. He is so close to having a running car. This is what I came home with. All individually bagged and labeled Here are the reproduction seals for the hatch vents They look great! If you ever need parts from Steve just give him a shout. Many orders he makes when ordered. The only things that show in stock are the extras from previous orders. As another point, the large vent gaskets are a little on the expensive side but the counter point is it takes two days to make one of those!! That's why some of the NLA reproduction parts cost what they do. So thankful they are available at all!!

@SteveJ

Not if I don't have an antennae or radio handy...

Nope, not a peep

I was looking for the radio antennae cable today. The one that runs down the left side of the car. I found these. I think they are for the S30. They are 12'4" OA Which end of the cable to which end of the car?

Duplicating the cardboard at the rear strut towers Posted into the resource section

We are getting closer to starting up the frankenstein motor. Does anyone have any advice? Do we have to drive it? Can we just garage start it? How long do we need to run it on initial start up? Any other thoughts?

Here are some templates for the cardboard at the rear strut towers

So I drew out some templates today for the cardboard pieces that go on the rear strut towers under the diamond pattern vinyl. I posted them in pdf and dwg. One of them is larger than 8 1/2 x 11 240z cardboard strut tower.dwg strut tower carboard1.pdf strut tower cardboard2.pdf

Any updates?

Too bad you can't find a donor console. It is much easier to plastic weld something if you have the same plastic as a donor. I have done alot of plastic welding. An old glove box door might work as a donor. You can use a soldering iron as a plastic welder. Then knock down the repair with a grinder. Texture with some SEM spray

Do you have the other pieces to fill the hole?

My only concern about moving the contact pattern is noise. I have read that moving to a new contact pattern in a worn in R&P can cause excessive noise and/or whine. Otherwise I agree with your plan overall

I'll look around

That's a good idea. I will try Michaels. I want something a little tougher than regular cardboard in case I need to peel the leather and reposition

A gallon of epoxy is normally enough to seal a car. With activator it's normally 5 quarts mixed. Looks good Grannyknot! No boom is always good!!

On another note, does anyone have any recommendations for replacing this hard board that goes on the rear strut towers? This is why I don't through anything away. I found it inside the old vinyl I only have one and need to make the pieces for the top of the shock tower too. It looks to be about 2mm thick

Thanks for those! It looks like the auto console would need some pretty serious patching to make work. I will look at sourcing a replacement console