Patcon

I'll look around

That's a good idea. I will try Michaels. I want something a little tougher than regular cardboard in case I need to peel the leather and reposition

A gallon of epoxy is normally enough to seal a car. With activator it's normally 5 quarts mixed. Looks good Grannyknot! No boom is always good!!

On another note, does anyone have any recommendations for replacing this hard board that goes on the rear strut towers? This is why I don't through anything away. I found it inside the old vinyl I only have one and need to make the pieces for the top of the shock tower too. It looks to be about 2mm thick

Thanks for those! It looks like the auto console would need some pretty serious patching to make work. I will look at sourcing a replacement console

If someone has some pictures of the manual console from underneath, that would be great.

I was not sure if all the extra material that holds the auto shifter was there on the manual console? Or whether the manual had that but didn't have the notches where the auto shifter slid through?

So before I started gluing, I made two sharpie marks for where the seams should meet the luggage panel Then I sprayed glue on the top edge about halfway down and put it in Today I worked on the front half. I sprayed both surfaces. I didn't let it tack too long so it was a little easier to position

We worked on his header some today. We spotted the O2 bungs and Cody cut the holes in. I used a spare sensor to check the locations and ended up moving one of them to get a little more clearance. We bought the header uncoated so after he welds it, we will get it coated

What are the differences in the automatic center console and a manual center console? How does the edge of the manual center console compare around the shifter?

Yeah, those are close. I've never measured the stock ones. Half the battle is knowing what search terms to use...

What window kit did you use?

I have most of those caps but haven't seen a source for replacements. Would like to find a source if possible, just in case...

Did you figure out which end of the headlight harness gets the tape marker? Do you have the caps that go over the headlight screw inserts?

Also remember this trim is exceedingly thin! So the closer you can dolly it the better. It's not some thick trim off a 70s Detroit beast. There are limits to how much you can sand with the course stuff! You'll know you're getting really thin if it turns blue easily when buffing

Bear in mind. The paper dulls reall really fast because the trim is so hard! Especially the finer grits

Yes, it probably wont happen this weekend though

Does this match your glass? Drivers side? It does have some light scratches. I don't know how well it will polish up or if it will come up to the standard of your build...

I might have one

So a couple of weeks ago, I worked on the trim for the windshield. I had a couple of sets to choose from, but not all of them were perfect So I buffed this corner but you can still see some light scratching in it. So I sanded at 1000 grit and rebuffed Now they look like this Original condition, I first cleaned with lacquer thinner I had this damage from disassembly. It got distorted trying to pull it out of the old seal So some light dolly, hammer and punch work. Then block sand and buff After my first try, I went back and used a little courser grit, worked my way up and rebuffed So I had this dent to deal with. Started with dollies and punches Gets you to here Then block sanding. A little piece of wood square block. I started with 600 grit. Then 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 Then jeweler's rouge This is where I ended up. It all looks good unless you get really close

I started an install thread for the leather interior to separate it from the earlier part here.

So I am going to start a leather interior trim thread. I bought the pieces from Interior Innovations and thought it might be helpful to document how I went about the install So I've been procrastinating on this a little bit. The factory vinyl laps up onto the luggage panel a little bit, I believe. I thought that would be hard to do with the leather thickness. Also it really needed to be shifted as far forward as possible to line up well with the parking brake and get under the fire wall mat. There was one set of marks for the seat rib. I will cut these nice and close later I put the original console in the car. It won't be the one I use long term but it shows whats covered up Outline it with sharpie I needed to layout the hole for the parking brake. It didn't come pre-cut. So I laid the old one over the new one, snap to snap, and marked it out with a soap stone I'm thinking this will all cover up very nicely when done. The thick hem on the firewall leather will help conceal everything. So I set the tunnel piece all the way to the fire wall but no extra It does lap over some of the center console brackets. So it will probably have to be trimmed there when I get to console install I didn't like this part. Taking the knife to your leather that came half way around the world!! I was going to trace some of the areas with the sewing machine to prevent the diamond stitching from raveling in the areas that I have to cut but I opted for a little super glue on each end instead I sprayed the rear top of the tunnel with Dan Tack. I also sprayed the corresponding area on the leather. I let it tack down pretty good. It sticks like mad! I tried to adjust it behind that brake leather but it was just tearing the jute all up with it. If I had not let it tack so much it would probably be a little more adjustable.

Update on the pieces I ordered off Ebay. So what I received are two pieces of rubber maybe a 1/4" thick. They are not very compressible. I don't think I will be using them. I am planning on getting some reproductions from 240zrubber

So I will update this thread so it's all here too. I did some plating a few weeks ago and it blistered badly. I'm not sure why. I could have been my plating tank was heating properly or too much brightener. In any event, I stripped it all down in citric acid and reprepped them for plating. This time instead of using tape to protect the chromed shafts, I used heat shrink. They did ok this time but some of it came out really pink. I left them in my blue chromate a little longer and only left them in the yellow for about 20 seconds. I was using a heat gun to dry and cure them. The last one I let air dry to see if the heat was causing the blushing. I believe the one on the bottom is the one I allowed to air dry The one on the far right is the air dry one. I do believe it changed when I allowed it to air dry but I was changing my chromate time too so it's hard to know the cause definitively. One point is, if you use heat shrink or even tape, it needs to be cut off ASAP. I had one that had some liquid still in it and it corroded the fresh plating where it leaked out later. Since all of this is concealed in the cowl, I'm not going to worry about it.

Cody also went and vapor honed his carbs