Patcon

I thonk I would look to copy the original rally size tire for the proper look. Maybe one of the forum members with more knowledge of that will chime in.

Seam sealer sticks to almost anything! You can wipe up excess with lacquer thinner Silicone will seal and bonds pretty good but isn't paintable Silicone can be wiped up with denatured alcohol

I agree, this is not a 3 digit problem. Mark makes a good point trying to find the extent of the damage. Your repair estimates will be more accurate the more you uncover. And yes you could section the pan and only replace the areas that need it. Flat metal is not ideal because it can oil can. The stamped sections of the floor pan help add strength

I replied in your other thread

I would recommend going to some of the automotive paint supply stores in your area (finish masters?). Ask them for some names of shops that do classic car work. Dont do it in front of other customers! Collision shops don't like working on classic cars. You need to find a restoration shop. The guys who sell the paint will know who's in your area. Go to more than one paint supply house. Their customers tend to shop at only one shop. So it's sort of Balkanized. Once you find a restoration shop they may not be interested or have a long backlog, ask them who they would recommend. It's gonna require some networking. I would drive the car. The car will still maintain its shape even with no floor pan. I wouldn't thrash on the car though...

These cars were driven pretty hard through the rally years. Even wrecked; rolled back over and run some more! I suspect a properly developed suspension and some minor chassis work would make the car fair just fine. Provided it's not abused. If you take this route, start a build thread. I would like to follow along.

I was wondering if they were used in multiples on other cars, did they mess with a balance tube?

Were they ever used as multiples on any vehicle?

I put the trim back on the rear finishers For the most part it went on by hand. I tapped it a little with a soft rubber mallet. Thanks so much to Jim for the excellent recipe! @jfa.series1

Did you mention in a previous post what system that is?

I might experiment some...

These cars are known to lean out with age. It's why some people add a resistor pot between the temp sensor and the ECU. Set mixture with the turn of a dial. @siteunseen

Silver brazing might work. Especially if you dish both sides to lock it in. I only welded the back side on the second attempt. It seems to be pretty strong but it's going to see some significant force, so we'll see ...

I worked on the headlight buckets some more A little heat and the caps will come off Then I noticed that the buckets were different. The older ones with the caps and then I assume a newer style that the plastic adjuster thing is all one piece. I tried to get some of these out of the buckets but that wasn't going to happen with out destroying them!

So I started on the emergency brake cable redesign. I've been procrastinating on this So I pulled it back out of the car, which is a pain with the differential in place! Cut off the factory end Welded the pin When I welded the back side of the pin, I burned through the cable. So I had to redo it

I also did some parts in citric acid and they turned black or had black clouding on them. It comes off on your hands. After they had been dipped, I bead blasted them again and they looked fine

Worked on the Goon some today First time outdoors in a while. It's filthy... So the engine is in and I will start trying to help him get some of the misc pulled together. One of the big things is fabbing up an exhaust. I also need to try to figure out the float levels. I'm not sure if I can set them to the same height as standard SU's?

I agree leaks into the bell housing aren't great. They can contaminate the clutch but that's probably getting replaced anyway at this point. I guess my main point is, if it has sufficient oil in it, transmission and engine, then it can still be driven. It'll leak but my old Ford diesel did too, for years & years, I just kept on driving it. 😄

Did you check the transmission fluid level yet? Check it with car level. Leaks aren't the end of the world. As long as it has enough fluid in it. Heck, on some cars leaks are how you know it has oil in it!! 🤣

You could call L japan auto services 232-1533 I don't know if he works on anything that old

Does Belmetric carry that type of fastener?

Thats an excellent use for the ash tray!

That's progress though, and progress is good!

I love what you engineered for a fuel tank!! I think I would switch back to the main tank and verify the problems return. It's possible your other repairs solved the previous problem.

I would want molded if I could get it. The molded should fit better in the corners if it's done properly