Patcon

What black paint are you using? Rattle can? 2k?

It's $12. Buy a set and try it. Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't. Its a cheap option

Use an extractor and a adjustable wrench. Use a mirror or the selfie options on your phone to get a good look at it. Put the extractor in the hole and turn it to the left, ccw. If you can't get a 2" extractor in it because of access, it's gonna be really hard to weld a nut on whats left. What happens when that red hot blob or weld comes in contact with the oil in the engine? What happens when you get solvent or water in the engine trying to get it clean?

Stock with the vise grips! The tapered extractor is the first thing to try. The less you tear it up, the better. If it will start at all it will pull itself into the hole as you turn it. I would not attempt to weld down there in all that oil. It's not going to stick anyway Harbor freight has a set $12. Do not snap the extractor off in the remnants of the pressure gauge!!!

If the valve train got hot due to low lubrication, you would probably lose all the lash. Double check it stone cold

So got the glass down out of the shop ceiling today. Its been above the spray booth since about 2010. Unfortunately the windshield was broken in two places. 😞 I had it stored on two 2x4s with the curve turned up . Concave side down. The inner sheet of glass broke on both sides just out side the 2x4s. I guess the weight of that inner sheet broke itself Thankfully I have a spare. Hopefully it will clean up

Yes, perfect Thanks

@SteveJ The six pin shells are available at vintage connections? Can I buy them separately; not in a kit?

Has anyone heard from Jim Daniels (Zup) or Jim Smirlies (S30driver?)? I PM'd them a few days again and texted Jim Daniels today. They haven't been on the forum in over a year! I wanted to be sure my favorite Jim's were ok! C

I actually printed that picture today to use as a guide in the shop! :)

@SteveJ Thanks for looking around. I found some at Pelican parts and have it coming this way. On another note, I pulled out some wiper assemblies. Is it possible to jumper out the plug and make sure the wiper motor works before I put it in the car?

If the bleed screws on the calipers are on the bottom, you will never get good brake pressure!

That's good. I have an account with them so I can get that coming. They are pretty prompt about shipping... Never mind, they are out of stock of the 8mm and 10mm braided

Working on the fuel and vent tanks some more. I believe my fuel sender is bad so I ordered a cheap one off Ebay. We'll see how it looks. I bought a bunch of braided hose for the vent system but I let Cody use some of it for his car and now I don't appear to have enough. Trying to sort that out Where does the upper port on the left hand side (maybe 8mm hose) of the vapor tank go?? Does it just go through the floor and vent to the outside? Or does it connect to the vent line that goes to the front of the car? I think I know where the other lines go. I am looking for springs to work on the one molded hose. I may try to heat that in the oven to thermoset it... On the diagrams I have seen it seems to go through the floor and vent but if it connects to the vapor line to front of the car, it isn't shown right...

Trying to clean the rocker vinyl pieces up. I may have to vinyl black them to make them look right I haven't seen these available any where new ?

So I worked on the radiator support some this week My grill brackets were either bent or broken off. So I took some off a parts car a while back. Marked around them with tape because the spot welds are in different places between the parts and the weld through primer would erase the pencil layout. Then I seam sealed around them. Taped the car up and sprayed it black. Then I primed and blacked my air dam support and welded it on today

If you use some starting fluid will it fire over? If it won't then it's spark or compression

So there was a thread about vent lines in the not too distant past. The OP had found braided vent lines somewhere (VW site maybe?) spec'd out the lengths etc. I have tried to find it. Anyone remember that thread? On another note is the search feature on the forum working? I always get zero results...

I had that one time a long time ago... Valve lash was too tight.

A small thing. I wouldn't call that a sway bar. I would call that a strut tower brace. Sway bars are normally connected to the wheel swing arms

I think you're right. That looks like the real deal. Very unusual

Thanks for that. I read all 7 pages last night. Lot's of good info

Do you ever post up a thread or how to on how you did this?

I'm not sure I have the time to devote to that.

@cgsheen1 I think you covered a lot of what I had worked through in my own mind. I like EFI! Get in it and it starts and idles no matter the weather. Great fuel delivery control; coil on plug; all of that. I figure a stroker motor will cost $5-6k without head work. Add $2500 for port and polish. Long term I would want ITB's. $4k for the ITB's. $2-3k for a stand alone ECU. It starts to get expensive... All in $14-20k... It might make 300Hp, it might make 225Hp. Lots of variables unless I have Dave or Eiji build it. Which adds even more costs I have 2 complete with harness L28ET's in my shop. I sort of have an EFI fuel tank, once I get all of the dents out. Would probably go stand alone ECU at some point, unless I can't sort the factory EFI and get it to run properly. I would think for now I would run stock internals and not get too crazy with the boost. If I need to upgrade the internals, I could build the other block and just swap them out. All in, this route seems like it would be significantly cheaper than the stroker...? Now, don't get me wrong, I love the look of ITB's and I have obviously collected stroker parts for a reason. But I don't have limitless resources, either time or money. So the turbo seemed to make the most sense in my mind. The reason the question comes up now for me was timing. If I were going to take a stab at the stroker, I might build the engine before Tampa Zcon and drop it in. If I go turbo, then I would get the car running on another engine with some carbs and do the turbo motor after Tampa. I don't think there is time for me to swap to EFI and sort it before Tampa. It just adds too much work to an already crowded schedule