Patcon

It'll be hard to get them to make it right if they dont believe there is a problem... Is it possible to get a good video of the smoke and post it up? It's not an absolute that a good compression motor wont smoke. It could be oil rings or the ring gaps might be too closely aligned. Another option would be to keep moving forward. Get it painted and put some road miles on it and see if you can get the rings to seal better. You could also get a wide band and check the exhaust. Get the mixture dialed in. If it still smokes it's not fuel at that point

I think they make a special set of pliers to do it... I couldn't paste in an image... Google "safety wire pliers aviation"

The hinge seals are sandwiched between the hinges and the chassis with a small metal frame as a washer. They are custom made now and can be pricey. I don't think you will be able to see anything from the interior side. Might help to have the panel out though and try to pinpoint the leak with a garden hose

That also appears to be what carpartsmanual shows too

Yes, typically they are wired to each other Sometimes they are all wired in series. I don't know if the bolts are available already drilled. I know many times racers will drill them themselves to make safety wiring possible. I don't know historically but many modern racing classes require some level of safety wiring

I have one, not sure what they're worth in todays market...

You would think oil in the exhaust would taper off as it burns out, not increase with run time. Does the head have new valve seals?

Does your crankcase/ pcv system work correctly? The oil caps are supposed to have an O ring. At different times they were integral to the cap and then the valve cover

The compression numbers look good. I have heard of people running ATF in their SU's. I don't think the ATF is the issue. It will draw it out if the pistons are overfilled. It will stop once it's pulled down some. I wouldn't mess with the needles yet as they're fresh back from Ztherapy. I might also make it a little leaner with the knobs. I would expect the floats to be right after the refresh too. You could check them but I wouldn't go adjusting them right away. If you restart it, does it smoke a lot and then get better. Typically valve seals and guides will drip onto the backs of the valve stems and smoke heavily when first started. Also wet looking plugs are typically oil unless you have a lot of extra fuel! The smoke would be obviously black at those levels too.

Did the drivers walk away from that roll over? It looks pretty flat...

4 of those are pretty dark

No they didn't. They couldn't have. The marks he made on the flywheel and the pressure plate for where to install them balanced are off by 120 degrees.

Have you tried pulling the plug wires one at time while it's running to see if one cylinder doesn't change (ie isn't firing)? Use a leather glove; getting tagged by the coil is very unpleasant and not very healthy!!

We made a little more progress on the motor today Unfortunately we got stumped today! We started working on the flywheel and pressure plate. The rotating assembly all got balanced including the pressure plate. Unfortunately the machine shop didn't put the dowels in the flywheel before balancing. They must have just bolted the pressure plate up to the flywheel without the dowels. They assumed that the pressure plate could be mounted any of three ways, 120 degrees apart. That is not the case!!! Once the dowels are in there is only one way it will mount up and it's not the way they balanced it. So I'll go by and see what they say. Hopefully it's an easy fix. We'll see... Really disappointing... In their defense I didn't know that either

That's a super find. Do you have an expected home for it?

Is your cold start valve still plumbed in? Do you have a way to measure AFR? Maybe the cold start is dumping fuel in? Maybe blank off the line? Have you checked the plugs themselves for fouling?

I haven't used those adaptors. I have a set already but will try these if those dont work out. CV axles should be a definite upgrade and more durable. They also make it easier to switch to a LSD diff. Likewise the throttle cable should be a nice upgrade. It should last a 100k miles. More than most people will put on their classic z in a lifetime

Nice link to that kit!

Its rare it goes more than a few days without running. Its runs pretty much every weekend and occasionally during the week. I just need to be more consistent or risk an auto drain unit

But its your brand?? 🤣

I plumbed a small ball valve off the bottom of my tank but I don't go out there enough and drain it

If your compressor is somewhere it wont freeze, they make auto drain devices for air compressors. I am also not diligent about draining my compressor but Im afraid to add an autodrain because mine is outside and it would likely freeze and crack

I agree those are easy to break. The long skinny ones in the water pump are also easy to break

I haven't had that problem. They have a small center point and I use a center punch to get them started. You do have to keep them square to the surface until they get started

I prefer this type of cutter. Blair makes a lot of spot weld type tools. I find these aren't as brittle as the hole cutter type bits. I own a selection of both. These also will only cut through the top layer. You will see a change in color that represents the surface of the lower panel when cutting. Like a sediment layer in the earth. They do better if you don't run them too fast and use a cutting oil of some kind