Patcon

We made a little more progress on the motor today Unfortunately we got stumped today! We started working on the flywheel and pressure plate. The rotating assembly all got balanced including the pressure plate. Unfortunately the machine shop didn't put the dowels in the flywheel before balancing. They must have just bolted the pressure plate up to the flywheel without the dowels. They assumed that the pressure plate could be mounted any of three ways, 120 degrees apart. That is not the case!!! Once the dowels are in there is only one way it will mount up and it's not the way they balanced it. So I'll go by and see what they say. Hopefully it's an easy fix. We'll see... Really disappointing... In their defense I didn't know that either

Is your cold start valve still plumbed in? Do you have a way to measure AFR? Maybe the cold start is dumping fuel in? Maybe blank off the line? Have you checked the plugs themselves for fouling?

I haven't used those adaptors. I have a set already but will try these if those dont work out. CV axles should be a definite upgrade and more durable. They also make it easier to switch to a LSD diff. Likewise the throttle cable should be a nice upgrade. It should last a 100k miles. More than most people will put on their classic z in a lifetime

Nice link to that kit!

Its rare it goes more than a few days without running. Its runs pretty much every weekend and occasionally during the week. I just need to be more consistent or risk an auto drain unit

But its your brand?? 🤣

I plumbed a small ball valve off the bottom of my tank but I don't go out there enough and drain it

If your compressor is somewhere it wont freeze, they make auto drain devices for air compressors. I am also not diligent about draining my compressor but Im afraid to add an autodrain because mine is outside and it would likely freeze and crack

I agree those are easy to break. The long skinny ones in the water pump are also easy to break

I haven't had that problem. They have a small center point and I use a center punch to get them started. You do have to keep them square to the surface until they get started

I prefer this type of cutter. Blair makes a lot of spot weld type tools. I find these aren't as brittle as the hole cutter type bits. I own a selection of both. These also will only cut through the top layer. You will see a change in color that represents the surface of the lower panel when cutting. Like a sediment layer in the earth. They do better if you don't run them too fast and use a cutting oil of some kind

Some nice parts but I would have to have a special car to justify the costs

Super! Thanks C

Maybe the return orifice is blocked?

Where did they use a pointed bolt like this on the car? I believe it is 8mm x 1.25

@CanTechZ Thanks MIke! Those are just what I needed!

Yes

He's changed a lot in 5 years! He's 6'7"+. He's a Caterpillar heavy equipment field mechanic

Yeah, that would be a nice picture to end with. Definitely getting gray. Might get my kids in that one too. They've changed a lot too

Also, there is a ground to the chassis above the fuel tank. Is dielectric grease the way to go on this connection or copper antiseize?

So I started pulling the rear body harness in. There are two branches that go up. One for the dome light. One for the defroster. The dome light is self explanatory, but how does the defroster route? All in the structure or only internal until its under the plastic?

Looks great! Happy Easter!

Carolina Driveline Inc Howard st, spartanburg They do it all. Common through Nascar... I agree, it does seem cumbersome but I can't come up with another teason for the asymmetry you've seen.

I hate to say it but maybe the mismatched rings are an intentional balancing technique. Which would be impossible to replicate without a drivline balancer. If you find it's necessary we have a very good and regionally know driveline specialist here in Spartanburg

You can use a spot weld drill bit. I have found a round headed metal rasp in a die grinder works better. It's harder on the removed panel though. Make the metal thin and then wiggle it until it breaks loose. Then a die grinder with a 2" rolok to dress down the spot welds.