mike240

going off what alfadog said, you may be on your own BUT you'd probably be the pioneer for this and pave the way to another option for Z-ers looking to do a quality, but inexpensive(well, cost yet to be seen) seat swap project. i'm sure there would be more than a few of us that would love to see the writeup on it. i say GO FOR IT.

hey bentsen, i am also planning on doing an rb20 swap into my 73Z. you will have to let me know your progress on it. i have a shop that will be doing mine. they have this deal where if this is the first time they do a swap with a particular car and engine, they don't charge for the fabrication items in the swap. i would like to take them any documentation i gather from all the Z sites as possible. one thing i noticed you mentioned is a longer fan shrould...think about this(which is what i'm going to do, take the clutch fan off and get an electric fan. you can fabricate a mount to mount it right in the middle of your current fan shroud, AND, taking off the clutch fan will free up a few(just a few) horsepower because it has a little less parasitic drag.

hey arch, what is the max hp for an rb20 on stock internals? someone mentioned like 275 or so and that just doesn't sound right considering it has 215 stock. i had a 240sx that i was going to put in an sr20 and i'm pretty sure they are capable of withstanding over 300 hp on stock internals and they are all aluminum. the rb20 is iron block alum head if i'm not mistaken, correct? i have a 73 Z now and after contemplating a shitload of different options, i have decided to do the rb20 swap, pending some more research. the rb26 is just too much. the shop that is gunna do it charges $2300 for an r32 rb20 front clip and i think their r32 rb26 clips are $6500, so you can see the best deal there. what size is the turbo in the rb20 and what is the stock boost on it? and what is the max efficient daily driving boost you can turn it up to?

is a 3.9 a good ratio to use with the turbo engine or would that be too low? if so, what is the best ratio diff to use?

are the webers dual or triple? how much for them? do they include the linkage and manifold?

i plan on getting the intake and head ported and polished along with a mild Crane cam(new chain and sprockets too) and rebuilding the SUs with the better flowing needles(they have a 'one letter and two digit' designation) but i can't remember it. and as far as the head gasket goes, i'm just going to get a felpro. i've heard nothing but good about felpro. they are less than $50 at advance auto. i'm not going to do any bottom end work. i just wanted to tweak it a little bit to get it going/running and then i'll start saving for the sbc conversion. and funny you should mention the cam tower shims as i had a thick convo with a guy over on zcar. i was frustrated because i still don't see why someone can't just increase the tension in the chain vice shimming the towers. i mean, look at the way the rear derailleur works on a mountain bike. it keeps the tension in the chain and can be adjusted for more tension if you need it. why can't that work for head shaving? surely a measurement as small as .050 in could be compensated for by means other than shims. damn. but thanks for the info you did give me. i appreciate it.

hey 2manyZs, on that calculator, it shows the difference in CCs and compression between the HKS 1mm(FELPRO is the same) and 2mm head gaskets...now, would the difference in compression and volume apply the exact same if you were to shave the head 1mm? for example, compression with an E31(head i'm going to use) and a 2mm gasket(11.3 cc volume) on an L24 is 8.49:1, the same with a 1mm or felpro gasket(5.7cc volume) is 9.37:1. the difference in compression is .88. now wouldn't it stand to reason that given the E31 head and a felpro gasket, if you shaved 1mm(which i believe is about .050 in) off the head, it would respectively raise the compression .88(from the amount we calculated earlier) from 9.37:1 to 10.25. does this sound right? i'm trying to see what i need to do to get the highest compression i can whilst still using pump gas(and occasionally race gas for autocrossing). i want to get as much info as i can before i yank the E88 off and get the E31 and start tweaking it so i don't screw stuff up. let me know. thanks.

i would assume that raising the compression on an f.i. engine would be very similar to a carb engine. there is a calculator(can't remember where i got it but i can send it to you if you like) that computes compression for any given head and such. it's very handy. i wish it had a calc to compute compression for shaving a certain amount off a given head because i'm trying to find out that myself, as i am trying to find out how much of an increase in hp you can get for raising compression a certain amount. as far as carbs, if nothing is wrong with your f.i., i'd say leave it be but if you were gunna retrofit it with carbs, be sure to get the round top carbs vice the flat tops that you think you might have. hope that helps somewhat.

hey snootcheez, are they dual or triple webers? i have a set of SUs on my 73 (but they are roundtops off a '72 so they are the good kind). let me know if you haven't found any solutions yet. email is: mike240@zilvia.net mike

did you notice any difference in the quickness it revved or any power gains?

hey, do you have a mustache bar and the diff carrier you want to part with?

what's the difference if any, in the cfm output between the stock jets for the SUs and the ZT jets. it would seem that you could just buy a stock rebuild kit (cause $150 for a rebuild kit is ridiculous...i can buy a new holley 4bbl for less than that. i wonder if board members of car part companies get together at meetings and find different ways to bend the average consumer over and have their way with them...with no lube). sorry. i digress. anyway could i just buy a stock rebuild kit and get some bigger jets and needles elsewhere?

i agree with both dan and pete. dan, i also think that the 'flat face' look of fwd offset wheels don't look as aggressive as slightly deeper dish wheels and that spacers can cause problems in the sense that if they aren't perfectly round and flat (i.e. not warped). to me, it's an extra piece in there. i'd much rather have my wheel bolted directly to the hub. pete, you are correct in the sense of the center of the track line. yeah, the spacers push the wheel out more but the + offset of the wheel brings the center of the track line back in. it's good to get a spacer where the width is EXACTLY the same as the offset of the wheel. they may work well for some people and more power to them but they just aren't my cup of tea. IMHO, if wheel companies would stop being little bitches and make it where you can specify the backspacing and offset of the wheels when you order them...W/O having to give up your firstborn to pay for them. the last time i checked, they were here for us, not the other way around. too bad we can't boycott them.

hey rob, thanks for the info but if you'll notice that all those wheels have a +42 offset and you know that the Z requires an offset of 0. i also forgot to mention that i refuse to use spacers. even tho some will disagree, i believe that spacers are bad for your bearings and i like the deeper dish look of a lower offset wheel. most fwd wheels have a 'flat' face look about them and i don't think it looks very aggressive. i hate front wheel drive.

Does anyone know, for the love of God, who sells and/or where I can find some 16 or 17" thin spoke five or six star wheels (like Konig's Rated R or Toxxin, or the Cobra R) that offers(or even special makes them for the 240Z)? And the ones that do(like Revo Wheels, require you to mortgage your house to pay for them. If anyone here is from Revo wheels, I'm sorry. I love the 17"RZX line for the Z, but I'm not about to pay $225 a wheel for those. $150 or LESS per wheel is what I'm looking for. I am ready to kill somebody. Pleeeez help me. Thanks everybody.