pacemkr

thanks a bunch.

i need two, do you have the part number handy? My canadian dealer is useless for any oem parts, numbers, etc. they couldnt care less.

just a thought, its off topic from the carb issues, but i was having similar problems on a car recently. the contact that takes the voltage from the high tension lead to the rotor, inside the cap, is a graphite nib that is held in place by a very tiny spring. the car i was dealing with, the spring had corroded and would not handle proper levels of voltage. car would start but that's it. its a long shot, but worth a quick check. saw that you checked your condenser, etc but this spring is so hidden it would be easy to miss. cold winters really bring out the hidden skeletons in every car, stay positive you will fix it.

gave these a good hand polish and decided to brush paint the inside of the webbing with a satin black thought this might be good to post if anyone is considering the final outcome. at least now anyone can take a look and decide if they like it or not before actually painting their own rims. They still need a final coat, and a good buff with a terry to bring in the shine a bit more, but i think i like the results so far. new tires coming soon. before this is after,

It's been a while since i updated this post, but ive been trying to stay busy and making some progress. just wanted to share a few pics and findings. basically got the back end all back together now with new struts,springs, and eurathane bushings, etc. popped in a few new flex lines for the rear brakes and a new diff isolator and strap. Hind-sight, I would have liked to take everything down from underneath, clean and repaint because the Earl Shive paint job overspray is just ridiculous but I really want to save time in case i hit roadblocks elsewhere in the car refresh. I think the car will need a quality repaint at some point and I suppose I'll have more time to refresh the paint surfaces underneath at that time. couple findings, I replaced the rubber lines for the gas tank with new ones. I found they were really dried out and cracking so i chose to cut one open. 'My Goodness', what a mess inside. The whole rubber line was absolutely full of degraded rubber, chips, flakes,powder. What a case to point for checking this on any s30 purchased. that new age fuel really does make a mess and i can only imagine what that refuse would have done, left unchecked inside those gas lines. Otherwise, I think the rear end is done. Im loving the look of the lower right height already, and have'nt even done the front yet.

yeah, noticed that about the lower valance on the 240 being a little tighter than the later models. thanks for all the info guys. really too bad there is not a sportier tire available in the 195/70 category because once i polished up one of these appliance mesh mags I've really started to like the look of them.

hi folks,\ my mind is buzzing after reading all the posts i can handle on rim/tire issues. I'm about to order some tires for my appliance wire mesh 14x6 as I've decided to keep them. currently i have 195/70 R14 on there now. Im half way done lowering the car with the eibachs and added blue tokicos. wondering if anyone has run 225/60 R14 or 205/70 R14. looking at the BFG's cause i like the retro big bun look, but could use some input on what others have experienced. I have a stock front facia but would like to add a 'spook' spoiler in the future. current 195's are good for clearance but would like to increase width as long as it does'nt look too bulged out, or cause rubbing issues. pics would be great if anyone has any. thanks

thanks again, did'nt know if the homemade approach would be adequate for the diff. but here it goes, OH, and Eurodat, thanks for the FSM link, got it! "much appreciated from Canada, egh."

just putting my diff back in and realized my rear diff cover gasket is not useable. since ordering one in will take a few days, wanted to know if anyone has tried the homemade approach here, or possibly gasket maker compound. did a quick check on prev posts but didnt see anything in first couple pages would love to get this thing back together and move on to the next issues. thanks for any input

thanks, i have the other side to do still. i will try this for sure. thanks

anyone know if this number was painted on from factory or does this mean it has been replaced with an oem part?

wanted to post a few pics of how i've found removing the stock rubber bushings from rear points. this technique worked well on the spindle pin bushings also. just drilled a series of holes around bushing with proper size drill that would guide the bit through while just skimming ODandID steel sleeves. seemed to work well and saved alot of time trying to burn them out completely. basically just drilled them out with a hand drill, then heated up a bit to soften remaining rubber, then just popped them out with a prying instrument. main reason for this update,,, does anyone know what these numbers on the moustache bar are? just wondering if maybe they 'tell' that this is a replacement part or what? anyone have any ideas?

I operate a snow removal company here in ONtario. I Suspect that if i didnt lock my Z away for the winter, she probably would'nt last too long, since at any given time there is two or three tons of road salt sitting in a truck not 15 ft away. I think if i even opened the bay door to my shop, the Z would melt from the shear stress that amount of salt being so close would inflict. It is absolutely criminal what we pour on the roads here during winter. I saw a 350Z driving in 6inches of snow two days ago, made me feel sick to my stomach.

Jerry, mine is a 6/72. here is a pic of what i have. i believe it to be unmolested. hope that helps.

I shopped craigslist for over a year, every city in USA cause i was willing to drive for a car i could afford and was worth the $price. My first thoughts after looking at this car are, looks like a decent start but I agree with previous comments that paint looks suspect. I noticed the painted door handle and wondered also. From other cars i looked at, I would just guess this is a 3000-3500$car. Just off the top, Once you get started on this car. I would guess it will be easy to spend another 2500$ min to get car up and running, maybe some items like tires, brakes, etc. Take the asking price of 4500$, add 2500$ that gets you 7000$. Now type in 7000$ into craigslist and see the kind of cars listed around the states. I would suspect the cars offered for 7000$ are going to be head and shoulders over what this car will be after spending just 2500$ to get it up and going. Thats not to say this car isnt worth buying. just be very sure you know what its going to cost you to morph the car into what you want. If the car as it sits is just what you want needing nothing. start low on an offer. You can always go up but cant ever go back down. good luck, let us know what happens.

hi folks, i thought I would start a new thread with a better, more searchable title. someone made a good point earlier. title should be helpful to people looking for info. previous thread on beginning of my little refurbishing project on my 72 240z was http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread48085.html, aka, "going to try a new thread". anyhow, worked a little tonight on pulling the rest of rear end apart. looks like the diff needs some new seals, ordered some new struts and springs also. take a look at the photos, let me know if you see anything i might have missed. see the very dead shocks. also, shot a little vid in the garage also. does anyone have an idea if that resonator is original? i just noticed it is stamped 'made in japan'. thought it probably is. If anyone wants it, its yours anyways, thanks again for all your comments. nice to have some others to share with.

thanks grannyknot, i already ordered a new msa mount and strap, so i guess i'll keep that approach and save the cash for the next issue i find, surely there will be some more. I'm in newmarket, i see you are Toronto. where about? anyhow, I'm going to start a new thread with a more adequate title, so searchers in the future will hopefully find useful info. new thread will be, '72 refresh'. hope to see you guys there. I could use all the help i can get.

thanks Chas, you following my thread and the comments are much appreciated. i'll look into that.

your thread about your work has been interesting also. was following your bout of 'sell or keep' regarding color. IMO, i love the color of your z. silver is really slick, but yours has a pop that other colors just don't bring to the table. if you have'nt tried 'blaster' penetrate oil yet, i highly recommend. cost me ten bucks for a can here in Canada, but boy it works really well. for the diff mount, i ordered a replacement from MSA along with a new strap. i had seen the solid and the stock design, have'nt seen a RT version. what does that entail? thanks for the reply,

yeah, i was thinking that thread topic was a bummer. sorry guys. just a newbie to the forum stuff. maybe i'll start again under a new thread topic if i cant change this one. also, thanks to all who have shared input on things to do and look for, much appreciated.

had a good productive day, thought some of you might like to see how bad my diff mount was. i didnt help this at all, it's exactly how it came out of the car. suprisingly, after using some good penetrant, I didnt have any issues with rear control arm pins. but, i will say that i dont think there is a piece of rubber under this car that isnt dried right out. one more thing, I will most likely sell these rims and tires at some point as i kinda fancy a different style. pm me if you might be interested. thanks folks for looking, please share comments and suggestions, and let me know if you see me making any mistakes too.

hi guys, now that the winter is here and i have time to tinker in the garage i was planning on starting this new thread. hopefully the process of me posting pics of my project will help keep my garage organised knowing that people are going to be looking. bought this car about 4 months ago, drove it a little bit but car needs a bunch of work and a good check-up. some of you folks suggested checking certain things immediately, so i've added them to my list also. starting at the rear of the car and moving forward is my plan so far. first major items would be, bushings and drop fuel tank to check gas lines. tonight i finished a good tune up process, another oil change, and drained the coolant for the winter (planning to pull rad to have it checked). started to prep rear of car for new urethane bushings, shocks, and springs. i had removed the bumber and a few light lenses to refurbish also. hopefully my bushing kit and other parts come before christmas. thanks for reading guys, feel free to share any thoughts.

not looking to hijack this thread, but i would love to hear more input on this colortune item. online info looks interesting.

That is too much for that car. IMO i'm in Canada, just learning the ropes on the z scene, but after watching the incredible prices people ask for the rust buckets up here, even I say that's way too much. most cars i've seen at that price point are show stoppers. It really is a shame when folks ask too much. case to point, I sold an older rust bucket for 1500$ as a parts car. Buddy threw it together with chicken wire and bondo, sprayed it black, threw ZG flares and some headlight covers on it, six months later it was for sale for 8500$. i almost threw up. I felt sick for the poor person who might have bought it

my wife is a red head, i dont go there. i better go buy one. thanks for everything