ksechler

I live in the DC metro area. The drivers around here tend to be pretty rude. I'm not sure if they are tail gating me to get a better look or they are just jerks. Most likely the latter. My car goes like a scalded get, though, so if I'm lucky enough to find a break in traffic I can drop any tail gater pretty quick.

Nice! GT40's one of my dream cars.

LOL! I wish.

I used a 240 air dam and bumpers. If this floats your boat I can give details. You should search Eurodat up too. He did a nice detailed post on the conversion.

Matt: Nice progress. Sorry about the blasting and flash rust frustrations. When I did my car I always painted after blasting with an etching rattle can primer. That way I never left the metal bare for very long. I like the way you plumbed the shop. I wanted to do something similar with mine but I was too lazy. Keep at it!

Awesome! Looks like your system is well thought out. thanks for entertaining me. i had rotator cuff surgery yesterday so aside from the internet and binge watching on Netflix I don't have much to do.

Nice work. You may have answered this but i'm curious what your plan is. You're keeping the injection, right? Are you regulating on the return or supply side? I think you are doing nice work but I'm a little concerned about the hose clamped connection for a high pressure (FI) application. Hope I'm not coming across as critical. You have done a great job and I'm dying to see the finished product. Another suggestion as long as I'm being a pest... and a g-sensing fuel cutoff. safety first!

madkaw: That definitely looks good. It occurs to me that I had a lot of extra wiring associated with my electronic ignition which accounts for more clutter in that area.

Makes sense. Let me know if you want me to shoot any other under hood pictures to help you place things.

You might find that fuel regulator location will give you grief. You're going to have battery cables and a lot of wiring very close by. I enclosed a picture of how I ran mine in case it helps you with the placement. I was really concerned about putting things where something else might need to go later. I was pretty lucky - no major conflicts.

What ends are you using for the fuel lines? Are you keeping the stock FI? Somewhere I found a high pressure 5/16" compression fitting to AN-6 that worked well. Maybe Summit Racing? If you go that route put them on now! It's harder to get the wrenches in there to tighten them properly with all the suspension stuff back in. Your fuel lines look real nice. Good job! Do you think you will be able to get it going before winter or will this one be seeing the road next spring?

This debate comes up every so often. Some say they rub some say they don't. I run 225's in my '76 280z and they rubbed in the front and back. Fixing the valence was easy but the back still rubbed even after I rolled the fenders. My car is lowered about 1.5" and I had 0 offset. I cut the fenders and put on flares. Honestly, I sometimes wish I hadn't. You could easily get by with a pair of sticky 205's. I believe that's what Eiji from Datsun Spirit runs on his white z. That car has more than 300 hp and goes 0-60 in 4 seconds or so. I know, I drove it.

I admire you for sticking with it. What kind of boost are you expecting to see?

You've always missed some darn piece. A hose clamp, or some other odd bit of rusty metal.

Lol! You're about to enter the hell of small parts restoration. It goes something like this.... "I think I'll put the <fill in the blank> back on the Z tonight... Gosh, those <fill in the blank> are awful rusty. I better clean them up first." Four hours later you have five cleaned up parts with paint drying and nothing has been bolted to the car... Couple of useful tools: blasting cabinet, parts tumbler and zinc plating supplies (you can do this easily). Once you plate the parts throw them back in the tumbler with corn cob media for a nice satin finish!

Cool! I might have to check those out.

It's easier to add now and run it full open then it is to add later. It is very hard to flare lines on the car!

I think Arizona Z sells them. http://arizonazcar.com/brake.html

Brilliant! You're off to a good start. Are you using stock brakes? I forgot. If not, you should add a wilwood proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I put mine in under the hood near the master cylinder.

Yeah, I agree with you guys. I can't imagine someone spending 75K in that car. There are a lot nicer cars out there at that price point. I'd be in at maybe $20K

I have that tool too!. It rocks. It'll flare stainless steel too. You just have to pull on it harder.

I don't want to bash, but does anyone think the price is a little steep? https://classiccars.com/listings/view/994526/1973-datsun-240z-for-sale-in-ruskin-florida-33570 There was another '73 listed on that site for $40K. Do people really get those prices or are they trolling for suckers?

Yes, I've been known to flare a line or two without the nut... Good luck! Doing the lines is rewarding but also a big PITA.

Why? I was able to source the jets. I'm properly jetted and have a drawer full of various sizes if I want to experiment. Eiji can get them, too.

How much you looking to spend and how much trouble are you willing to go through? You good with tools?