ksechler

Once or twice a week. I don't have it insured for commuting or daily driving. I get a little nervous driving with the maniacs here near DC. They don't seem to have any respect for anyone. That said, I built it to drive and next summer I plan to drive it whenever I want. She's sleeping the winter out in the garage right now...

Nice work.

Man, those guys in 1949 must've had it easy. The jaded representatives of womanhood we have nowadays would go to war over an advertisement like that.

Let me give you some advice here.... Test fit your door before you finish up with the dogleg. I did not and my repair sticks up a little more than stock. It wasn't bad but it could've been. The gap isn't quite right.

Forget that! Drive them! I drive my 350 during the summer and my truck in the winter. I plan to work my 280 into the summer rotation. I didn't do all that work for it to sit under a cover!

Brilliant! Plus I'll bet your car wont be seeing the road salt and other crap it saw in its first 40 years.

They make a weldable primer. Also the internal frame coating comes with a hose a special spray nozzle. You can shove it inside the frame when your done welding and just hose it down. The progress looks good. It must be a relief to put that rail back in!

correct.

That thought occurred to me. If you hit hard enough to push those back you'd probably die anyway.

Yeah, neither did mine... :-\

So, I'm not trying to be critical. I've followed this thread from the start and think you're doing great work... Do you have any concerns about where those braces might go in a front end collision? Can you notch them so they'll collapse without giving up too much rigidity?

Makes sense. I figured you had it under control. You're definitely bringing that one back from dead!

Looking good! Did you have to reinforce the car to keep it from sagging in the rotisserie once you cut the frame out?

Looks good!

+1 Double flare.

Boy, that's scary! At least you'll know there's no hidden rust when you're done.

I guess. It's more of a decoupled loop than a surge tank. I think I have my mind wrapped around it though. A vent would be a bad idea. It would be prone to overfilling and leaking.

I don't think that surge tank will work as it's shown in the schematic. Doesn't it need a vent?

The question is, "What do you want?" If you have 20K to spend and you want a fast, trouble free car you could pick up a 350 or 370z. I just found a 370z NISMO for 25K on CL in Doylestown. It'll give those Porches a run for their money and spend a lot more time on the road in the next 20 years for a lot fewer dollars.

One thing I forgot to mention about the classic tube kit.... NO LEAKS! I had one joint I had to tighten (a lot), but overall the quality of the flares was good and the lines fit the stock routing without modification.

Stainless is a bear to bend and flare. Classic tube has a kit for $300 that works out pretty well. I used that on my 280z without issues.

Compression fittings. http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/compression-fitting

Put the line in anyway. It's impossible to add later. I don't use my canister or the return line, but the lines are there just in case.

Did you save the old brake and fuel lines? With your new floors and frame rails you will have lost all of the original mounting points. When I did my car I reinstalled the old lines so that I knew where to put the mounting points. Probably one of my smarter moves.... Installing brake/fuel lines was a tough job. I used stainless and it isn't very forgiving.

Gotcha. The reason I asked is that I would be concerned about water getting between the two rails and promoting rust. For what it's worth, I did not wrap my frame rails and my car is stiff as hell. I have a Datsun Spirit motor that is easily giving me 250 hp and don't see any issues. You are replacing formerly spot welded frames and floors with continuously seam welded parts. Your car will be significantly stiffer than stock even without the bad dog rails.