ksechler

Here is a resource for paint: https://www.paintforcars.com/auto-paint-car-paint-automotive-paint.html This is what is used. For sequencing I painted the interior and underbody. This included primer, finish color and undercoating the bottom. Then I partially reassembled the car (fuel lines, suspension, brakes). The suspension had been restored (by me) previously.

What about me? I still lurk around here ya know! Knock yourself out!

I wouldn't do 3 or 4. I struggled with what to do with the wiring myself. In the end I visually inspected the original harness and reinstalled it. I had to custom wire most of the engine stuff, though, because I did extensive modifications. What was the status of the original install? Did it work when you got it? You might just focus on problem areas if it did and save yourself some heartache. One problem I had with my resto was fighting the urge to redo things just to redo them. If something worked when you got it then you don't have to do it again just because.

Nice work. I can't wait to see this one done. I insulated my straps with bicycle inner tubes. I like your solution better. Hey, quick thought. When you sealed your tank did you remember to poke through the pickups to ensure you didn't seal them? Ask me why I said that! ;-)

Why not go with something electronic? I use an XDI with a crank trigger sensor. It's so much easier to just whip out the laptop to make adjustments.

Quit jammin' me!

groan.... :-) I have some work to do under there anyway. I'll put the spring in when I do it. Just haven't motivated myself to crawl around on the cold cement floor.

I had one or two flares that I had to crank down on to seal but overall they were great. Frankly, it never occurred to me to loosen and retighten but that sounds like a better approach than risking stripped threads. The classic tube is whatever the OEM threads are (assume metric). The wrench is a 10mm. Get the proper flare nut wrench. You'll thank yourself later.

....hmmm. I think I forgot something.

I used the classic tube ss brake lines. They fit very well. I had to convince the front passenger one a little but nothing serious. Stainless is harder to bend. As far as cracking - I've never heard that one. A quick (and lazy) trip to google produced this quote, "...so that as a general rule ferritic and martensitic types cannot be expected to be as fatigue resistant as the austenitic stainless steels..." meaning carbon steel lines are more likely to fatigue and crack than stainless.

That roof kills it for me. I don't think that is a $14K car. Otherwise it looks pretty nice. If you don't think about the absence of photos for every major rust area on a 240...

I'd buy that in a second if I could come up with an excuse. Good luck!!!

So... based on my own experience I'll offer this. I am not a professional and, in fact this was the first time I ever painted a car. Single stage CAN be cut and buffed to remove minor, um, imperfections, but from what I have read, base + clear coat can be a little more fixable. For example, if a gnat lands in your base coat, you can fix it before you clearcoat and no one will know the difference. Same deal in the clear, if that gnat lands in it now, you can cut the clearcoat and not worry about burning through you color.

This will probably start an extended debate. Are you spraying it or having it professionally done? IMHO there isn't anything wrong with single stage. I did my car in single stage and it looks great.

I'd be inclined to think you're starving carb #2 of fuel. I agree the fuel line routing is unusual.

Would you share the details on the switch you ordered. Does it thread in directly or use an adapter? Which location are you using?

Hmmm... Similar to my own setup. I hope you get your price.

The water in the lower hose is the temperature of the radiator. That doesn't tell you anything about the motor. The temperature of the water in the upper hose is the temperature motor. That's what you want to know. Consider this scenario... Your thermostat is stuck mostly closed. The sensor on the lower hose will see nothing wrong. The radiator is easily able to cool this small volume of water. Meanwhile you engine is roasting. A sensor in the upper hose would detect this condition.

The mods don't bother me. My concern is you want $25K but didn't post pictures of the common rust areas.

A couple options here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic19 I'm using this one: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19j/15-6308 I hate to tell you but z-cars have a reputation for exhaust smell in the cabin. You may find that very difficult to get rid of.

I wish mine looked that good. I think I got it on eBay. It works well enough but the caps look crappy...a project for another day.

No, I'll put something together one of these days... :-)

I used this universal cable from summit racing. I had to actually do some cut and weld modifications at the pedal end of things to make the connector fit nicely. If you want details PM me and I'll take some photos.

Too dangerous. I let off the gas and slow down to EXACTLY the speed limit or 5 below. Then I speed back up to what I was doing. If they come back I do it again. They usually get the message by the second time. Since I usually drive about 5 over the message is, "I could drive slower..."

I found this: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/d/1970-datsun-240z/6275326454.html Some sick part of me wonders if I could save it. Is it worth saving? Of course I've had a couple beers. Think I should offer him $500 bucks and give it a go?