280 wee

all right guys we did it shes running like new now i can move on to the body work tomorow. turns out i had about about 40 psi at the rail the origional FPR was good and a new set of plugs and a timing did the trick.But the real kicker in this is i had to hot wire my brand new fuel pump. I have a battery sitting between the seats thats powering my fuel pump. I think im just going to wire it into the fuse box on a 12v line thats only on when the key is on. but other than that she screamed so fast. I think she is alot faster than when i first got her. thank you coyze for the pic of the cam sprocket and thanks for everyones support i really appreciate it. now im off to address some hatch rust lolololol. 280 wee out. peace.

well guys didnt do much today went and picked up a 27mm soket for the crankpully nut and we removed the fan and water pump. and the timing chain inspection plate. were going to drain the oil tomorow and get the crank pully off and check out the whole chain itself and the tensioner. all i know is for that mechanic to be voted #1 in out town he sure knows how to screw a classic car up.

trust me the only reason i went to him is in the comercial he had a 260z on the lift and when i called he was a little informed on z's. but he doesnt know a dam thing about timing. he set my distributor way past 10 degrees and didnt even replace my water pump gasket or my valve cover gasket. hell i took my valve cover off with a socket on a hand driver they weren't even tight. once the car is running right im driving back down there and demanding my money back for there botched procedure

no i once took the car to a local auto shop to have a tune up performed and the mechanich said he timed it but upon closer inspection he did a horrible job. The car revs great in neutral and park but when i put it in reverse or drive and press the gas it will cut out and try to die and when i let off it goes right back to idle no prob. the thing we noticed about the timing was the cam sprocket and mark on the alignment plate were off at tdc on cyl#1. so once thats corected im hoping that will improve the situation. adjusting the timing back to factory settings. as well as every thing else back to factory settings as what the fsm says. thanks guys ill let you know how the timing job goes tonite.

Ok guys I got a timing lite to it today and we set the distributor to 10 degrees. when we started it up it pured at 700 rpm and reved great very little intake popping. but we noticed that the timing was off one tooth when we took the valve cover off. and the timing chain had a little play cause the tensioner wasnt adjusted all the way. so tomorow were going to pull the rest of the cover off and correct the timing chain and re time the distributor and that should fix the problem. let yall know tomorow.

I orderd an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from jdm but the gauge doesnt seem to work. The last time i took the timing light to it it was set to 10 degrees. not really sure where its at now that we messed with it. I am having my mechanic come over monday to help me replace all the old vaccum lines then well probly test with the origional fuel regulator that origionaly came with the car instead of the jdm one and test the vaccum advance on the distributor. ill let every one know what we find out on monday. thanks every one merry christmas

thanks guys. ill retrace my steps and perform the vaccum advanced test to see if the plate moves like its supossed to. Im a 2 stroke mechanic so 4 stroke is a bit confusing to me. Ill have my friend come over monday and we'll replace all the vaccum lines and make sure every thing is in the right spot as well as do the vaccum tests. sory if i posted in the wrong spot just signed up today not sure how every thing works yet. my bad

Hello. let me start by saying i love my z but right now i would have no problem taking it to a feild, setting it on fire and just walking back home. The car ran great until it randomly started loosing power no biggie just some clogged injectors. I put the car in storage for 1 yr when i had to move from TN to GA. I went back with a car trailer and got my beloved z car. brought it back as soon as it was off the trailer i was under the hood. I pulled my fuel rail and injectors no squirt.no go juice at all. so i drained the tank put new fuel line from back to front. new filters and a new fuel pump as well. I aslo decided it was time for new air sensor, thermotine switch, AFM, and injectors seals and the injector blocks. replaced them and she fired up and sounded good but was idling at 2000 rpm. and when i pressed the gas pedal i would sometimes get a back fire through the intake. so we played with the distributor timing and got a nice clean rev top to bottom. We then proceded to get in and go for a run put it in reverse and she studdered back and nearly died several times. we then tried to go up my drive way it studdered and luged up it and started to pick up power near the top of the drive way so i backed down and tried again same thing happend. me and my friend are trying to figure this out but i figgured i would talk to the people who have owned a few of these cars. My guess is the vaccum advance on the distributor or nasty tank but the gas was clean no sediment and have great pressure on the rail. this car is an enigma i have both the fsm and the efi bible. can i please have some ones oppinion on what this might be. if you need i could shoot a video and post it her of what it does and sounds like. thanks for taking the time to read this andy help would be greatly apreciated.