bavarian06

does that trim piece come off? it seems to be held on by a plastic screw and washer. i tried to remove the washer but too afraid of snapping off the screw. can anyone confirm thats how its removed?

there is there a cheaper alternative? cant understand why two vinyl sheets should cost $245.

well done. i'm debating if i want to respray my center console as well.

How do I remove the cables? Should I disconnect it from the HVAC or from the other end? I'm afraid of cracking or breaking these filmsy plastic pieces. Yesterday I made a slight tear in my lower steering column cover cause I didnt see there was one more screw buried deep inside the cover.

I looked through the manual but it doesnt specifically tell you how to remove it. I ordered the Haynes Manual so hopefully that will serve its purpose.

thanks. as the OP was mentioning about replacing 1157 with LED bulbs, would i get the hyper blinker issue? i do have a late model '70 and the turn signal blinks extremely slow compared to modern day cars. i would actually prefer a faster blinking turn signal (i would imagine the hyper blinking problem would speed up the factory blink rate).

question, are the REAR brake lights/turn signal dual or single filament? 1157 or 1073? how about the reverse lights? i notice when i hit brakes, all three bulbs go on and the same applies when the turn signal is on (makes me think someone put single filament bulbs in the car i just bought). i actually dont like the fact the entire tail light section blinks when the turn signal is on. is it possible to make it where the top section is strictly just brake and parking light. and the bottom half is just brake, parking light, and turn signal? i wonder if this can be accomplished by merely putting single filament on top section and dual filament on the bottom section (i'll laugh if this is the original setup and i just had the wrong bulbs installed).

i think someone jacked up the car from that part. they were better off lifting it by the differential (although i wouldnt).

some form of pressing is involved. guess that answers it, i rather spend the $200 to get it done.

thanks for the link. i didnt know it was a cartridge setup for the shocks. its not necessary to remove the entire hub/rotor assembly is it? looks like a pain if that is the case.

funny, i found this on amazon as well: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO8AFG/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER it has an inline fuse so it still runs a mild current through the fuse it remembers your car stereo settings.

Can anyone recommend a good terminal I could use in which it 1) prevents the battery from draining while the car sits in the garage 2) where I can remove a quick release pin so without it in-line, the car wont start. I saw a few options on a website but cant locate that site again for the life of me.

In terms of priority, what bushings should I swap out first? I believe I have the complete poly MSA kit and looking to get some of the bushing replaced (trying to tackle it according to importance/definite have-to-do/bang-for-the-buck-performance advantage). My local shop said they could do the complete front (steering rack included) for $200 in labor. They want $300 for the rear (including the mustache bar mounts) since the lower rear A arm bolts are a pain the butt. Is that reasonable? I was thinking of doing the fronts by myself when I install new springs/shocks. Does the front components require pressing some of the bushings in place? If that is the case, that rules out the DIY. $200 is not a whole lot of $$$ if it isnt really difficult and time consuming to do.

question, how do i pull out the center dash HVAC controls? i want to re-adjust my vent/heater cable and also work on my headunit. thx!

ok, thats a shame. its freezing without the vents blow at you. at stoplights, i put my hands over the top dash vents to warm up my hands.

i dont want to start a new thread and clutter the forum so i hope the OP doesnt mind if i post my question here. i know my heater works, but for some reason i cant get the heat to blow out from the center and the two circular vents on the side. all the heat is directed up from the dash vents and cold air from the three forward vents. was this how the car was designed or is something wrong with my heater HVAC?

thanks for the tip! i love this forum. i should disconnect the positive terminal correct? once the fuse box is removed, it would grant access to the choke and defroster switch connection? how do i remove the choke cable; is it held on by a screw, a nut, a clamp?

i wish i took pictures during the install but i think it will serve its purpose. i'll keep monitoring the vents. its unlikely this car will see the rain since it will be a garage queen. it was done mostly to seal out the exhaust fumes. but the rust issue, if you think about it, series 1 cars had the inner hatch vent area untreated, rain constantly leaked in and down the snorkel. that area was in constant contact with water. ideally the best thing to do is swap out the hatch but i like the fact it’s a series 1, despite the design flaw. on a side note, my inspection lids have vents (another dumb idea back in the day -.-). i had to fabricate a rubber drainage system to protect the battery terminal.

it's an old thread but i want to refresh my center console as well. how do i actually remove it? i removed the three screws from the rear, the four holding the center dash, the one holding the cigarette plug and i still cant pull the console out. i have a '70 Z

thx, my next step is to slip an extension tip that bends down onto the muffler. surprisingly my car still has the original exhaust system (interesting factoid, there is a Z emblem stamped onto the pipe leading down from the header). normally the first thing i do is replace the exhaust but im going to hang onto the original one unless someone tells me for sure a new one would prevent the fumes from smelling so bad.

it has been an exhausting 4days. i spent the entire long weekend stripping down the car down, removing parts so i can what needed to be replaced. i took off my tail lights and the gaskets are solid. there are no cracks, tears, or brittle from age. i was really hoping that was the culprit. i can replace them but that would be a waste of money (i'm thinking the PO replaced them since there was silicone holding the gasket to the car). i sealed the vents with foam/rubber and waterproof tape (what i use when i need a quick fix for my surfboard). its been raining here so i intentially left the car out in the rain and so far it works. only thing i would do differently next time is treat the inside of the hatch with some anti-rust coating and then tape it up. on a side note: does anyone know where i can purchase a new inner hatch lining? i contacted MSA and the aftermarket version of the rear hatch weather stripping isnt available. i noticed i am able to slip a credit card between the gap of the weatherstrip and the rear hatch. i believe this is the main reason why i have fumes leaking in. i stuck door weather stripping (like the kind you can get at home depot) on the existing one on the car and that closed out the gap. the unfortunate part is it doesnt look original and now its harder to close the hatch since there is too much padding. thanks for all the help; members contributions and the information on the forum really helps with my restoration process.

I have a 1970 240z with the rear hatch vents. I personally think these vents were the dumbest things ever and I want to get it sealed up ASAP (water seepage and major fumes). Without completely fiberglass the vents shut, has anyone stuck something from the inside to seal it up? I was thinking of sticking a layer of neoprene to fill up the gap behind the vent and then secure it with waterproof tape. Thanks in advance.

on a somewhat related matter, has anyone used MSA Parking Light Relay Harness? http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=12-4652 Its suppose to divert more volts to the interior dash lights. Wondering if I should get this or swap out the bulbs like the ones mentioned from PlanetBulb or both?

I havent picked one up, I know I just want a Nardi (always wanted to own a car where a wood steering would suit it, now I do). Can you send me a msg with pics and price?

I'm looking to put a wooden Nardi steering wheel in my '71 240z. Does anyone know where I can find a Nardi hub adapter for the car? I did a search on the forum and the part number is 4301001003 but apparently its been discounted. I read somewhere I can buy a MOMO hub and then use a MOMO/Nardi conversion adapter. Is this the only route? I plan to install some form of a quick release as well (NRG) to protect my car from thief. Do NRG make quick release in Nardi bolt pattern and pitch? I'm afraid after the hub adapter + the conversion adapter + then the quick release would build up the steering column and make my steering wheel too close to the chest (no to NASCAR style ). Thx!