kjohnson2444

Doug, I've thought about the lift. The problem is the garage door tracks. I'd rather have a barn anyway. The daily driver is another Altima ('05 SE-R) so it would have fit. The truck lives outside. It knows its place.

I cleaned up the garage, moved things around, and now my 240z has company in the garage. My wife claims that we've never had two cars in the garage at the same time. She may be right. Unfortunately, my daily driver has to live outside.

What are these door bumpers of which you speak? I must be missing them.

There is not a replaceable gasket on the brake booster, but there are rubber seals. I don't think they are serviceable. I recently replaced my brake booster with a rebuilt one from NAPA. Also, regarding only your rear brakes locking up, have you bled the master cylinder? Use those bleeder valves on the side of the master and bleed them right back into the master.

Thank you.

I'm confused.

I recently struggled with a non-starting 240z and it turned out that my points gap was so far off that it never actually closed. Readjusted and it started right up. Just a thought. Hopefully it is something that simple.

I went to check the timing on my '70 240z (all stock ignition) because it starts and idles fine, but stumbles under acceleration and completely breaks up over 4500 rpm. The timing notches on the pulley are over an inch below the pointer. I moved the distributor all the way in both directions, but could not get the nearest mark any closer than about an inch from the pointer (but could move it further away). Any thoughts? I've searched the forums, and there is a lot about timing, but I didn't see this particular issue. Any thoughts?

Perfect timing for this thread. I'm having the exact same problem. Runs better with the choke at about 3/4 and starts to break up around 4500 rpm.

Better rust protection. A little more adjustment in the seats.

That is sad and scary. I am not looking forward to that day.

I'm attempting to replace the flexible brake hoses on the front of my '70 240z. on the wheel side, I removed the clip and slid the hose out. On the body side, I have disconnected the brake line from below, slid the clip off of the mount, but the hose is held on some other way and I can't figure out how to get it off. I've thoroughly soaked it in blaster, but it won't move. Additionally, the new hose looks like it has a different type of end on it. Will it fit the old mount? Any thoughts?

Thanks guys. Knowing the complete ground path was helpful, and I did not know that when the points were closed I should get 12v to the negative terminal of the coil. I discovered that I was getting 12 volts to the negative terminal continually. I watched the points and they never closed! I adjusted the gap all the way down to get it closed (there is no more adjustment possible). Put the rotor and cap back on, and bingo! The car started on the first tap of the starter and purred like a kitten. I guess I should have been more careful when I replaced those points.

OK. I'm stumped and I have searched the forums and and tried everything that I've found, but I cannot get my car to start. It is a 1970 240z with the stock ignition. I recently pulled it into the garage, running rough, shut it off, and now it won't start. I first checked for spark at the plug, but there was no spark, so I checked at the main wire from the ignition coil. No spark there either. I do have 12v to the coil when the car is switched on and when cranking. BTW, it cranks over strongly. I have replaced the coil, points, condenser, ballast resistor, rotor, wires, and plugs. (Not the distributor cap. Couldn't find one locally.) I even purchased a second coil in the event I had a bad one out of the box. No luck. With power to the coil, I don't understand why I would not get a spark out of the coil. Any thoughts?

The time had come to replace these wires, but I'm definitely holding on to them...

I feel your pain.

I think Adam knows what he's talking about when it comes to racing Datsuns. The Camel GTU series required cars to have under 2.5 Liter engines, so even newer builds (after '73) used the original 2400cc engines bored out (and/or stroked) to 2500cc's. The Brad Frisselle car is still for sale (http://www.autotraderclassics.com/classic-car/1974-Datsun-Other+Datsun+Models-396948.xhtml?conversationId=19324) where it clearly states that the chassis is from a 1970 240z.

That is a thing of beauty!

Mike, Welcome to the wonderful world of Z cars in Ohio. You will want to join ZROC (www.zroc.org). There are a lot of great knowledgeable people who are willing to help. I've seen the photos in your other post. You're right, it looks scary, and you may want to try to locate another complete body. If you are able to do the work yourself, you have yourself a project. If you do not have that set of skills, tools and determination, you will spend a fortune having someone else fix it. You could be better served by looking for a solid car for sale in California where they are in much better shape and actually cheaper! I just got my car back after 6 months in a body shop and it was not as bad as yours. For what I paid, I could have bought a pretty nice California car and had it shipped to Ohio.

It looks great!

I've never heard anyone say "turn on the car." My kids are between 16 and 23, so I think they would be saying it if it were a popular term around here. And we do have a push button start Altima.

I recently rented "Grand Prix" on DVD. I obviously did not expect to see any z cars since the movie takes place in 1966. However, on disk 2 there are bonus features about the making of the movie. There is an interview with Bob Bondurant and he's sitting in front of a 240z!