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Using Lead or body filler on quarter panel seam
today's body filler (if used properly) does not and should not shrink nor crack. so i'd go with body filler. in particular, Evercoats products quantum if you're willing to shell out the cash, if not the rage line works just as good
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New Z owner in SoCal
Great choice on the car bro.... im from the LBC also. would love to come see that RB25DET some day
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Rechromed bumpers
I am jealous. they look reallllyyyy good. better then brand new. i would love to have a set some day
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primer choice for rocker panel replacement
thats a good idea. Use the self etching/epoxy/por15 the area around the welds. then use weldthru primer for the weld areas. as long as you get as much of that bare metal protected iwth something.
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A late Xmas gift from my brother- 1970 240Z
nice brother!
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240 # 22
i wonder what is reserve is.
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started body work on my 280
i hate putting the small things back together. its not that i cant, i just lose patience fast. like with door handles aligning stuff etc. of course when everything is said and done you can take a step back and enjoy the fruits of your labor... but anyways, the Z looks great!
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Hats Off to My Fairlady
i would like it more if the text only said "My FAIRLADY" i like the graphics though!
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what would you do?
well either way EScanlon, i agree with you. Even though a die hard enthusiast may want to color match the interior to the exterior (i would like to also) i believe it isnt the most important thing as far as repainting unseen areas But, would it be best to brush on por 15? or spray it on with a paint gun? I was thinking of getting a harbor freight paint gun to spray the por 15, but i dont know if the product is a thin or thick product. I like that they made it brushable, that lets me know that its a true DIY-er for those that dont have compressors. And does this product lay out smooth, or is it really texturized? thanks again!
- Crack in the Body
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just got my 15x7 rota rb's
classy!
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Best way to seal rear hatch vents?
I was thinking about welding in a patch but leaving the grille vents as remnants that its a series1 Or for sake of saving time and labor, just finding a series 2 hatch without the vents all together since my rear hatch appears to have a giant patch of bondo that is extra thick anyways =( looks like its been there since the early 90s.
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Last Cruise of 2010
Love the Z Oiluj! is that 306 silver?
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what would you do?
this is very true, and will be taken into total consideration. i gota factor in time into this. because i can fix a rusty spot, then por15 that to get it out of the way. the rest of the interior will take some time to clean, prep, clean, spray. so that could be addressed later. for sake of not having to buy two products (por15 and epoxy) i could still just por15 the whole area when i get to it as well. would you say for purists or period/era correct restoration-ists, matching the interior to the exterior is not much of a concern? i would like to do the best job i can as far as asthetics and protection thats why. but if i can save money on products and not paint the interior, then why not that is very true. many people make the mistake of stripping a bigger area then they can work on be4 rust starts forming again.
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what would you do?
the problem that causes concern for me is a lot of threads that i've read concerning Por15, i've never gotten a solid answer. Whether it be ClassicZcars, the hamb, the samba. there are many that swear by por15, and there are many that claim it has failed them. And although you argue my statement about epoxy primer not being the best corrosion and adherance product. Sooner or later, i believe mother nature will do her duty. no matter what is protecting the substrate. As far as bare un-rusted metal goes, i still believe epoxy primers to be the strongest and best product over a rust encapsulator. It is used to cover bare metal all the time. No one uses por15 and like products as a basis to paint a vehicle. Maybe i was wrong when i said it may stop or encapsulate rust, or convert light rust, but i do believe for clean bare metal, it is the closest thing we will come to a factory E-coat. It is an industry standard to spray a bare panel, or a whole car that has been sand/media/bead blasted with epoxy, not por15. but maybe the comparison between Epoxy Primer to rust encapsulators should not be made. in the end of the day, these products will always be up for debate. but i was not here to argue the fact. i know what I want to do with my car. and thats to restore it as close as possible to factory condition. thats why i mentioned Por15 as not being a complete option for me. small areas of rust sure. But not the entire interior. If i am still ill-informed, feel free to correct me.