gorillaFart

today's body filler (if used properly) does not and should not shrink nor crack. so i'd go with body filler. in particular, Evercoats products quantum if you're willing to shell out the cash, if not the rage line works just as good

Great choice on the car bro.... im from the LBC also. would love to come see that RB25DET some day

I am jealous. they look reallllyyyy good. better then brand new. i would love to have a set some day

thats a good idea. Use the self etching/epoxy/por15 the area around the welds. then use weldthru primer for the weld areas. as long as you get as much of that bare metal protected iwth something.

nice brother!

i wonder what is reserve is.

i hate putting the small things back together. its not that i cant, i just lose patience fast. like with door handles aligning stuff etc. of course when everything is said and done you can take a step back and enjoy the fruits of your labor... but anyways, the Z looks great!

i would like it more if the text only said "My FAIRLADY" i like the graphics though!

well either way EScanlon, i agree with you. Even though a die hard enthusiast may want to color match the interior to the exterior (i would like to also) i believe it isnt the most important thing as far as repainting unseen areas But, would it be best to brush on por 15? or spray it on with a paint gun? I was thinking of getting a harbor freight paint gun to spray the por 15, but i dont know if the product is a thin or thick product. I like that they made it brushable, that lets me know that its a true DIY-er for those that dont have compressors. And does this product lay out smooth, or is it really texturized? thanks again!

Can you just post pictures of it? visual aids are worth a thousand words.

classy!

I was thinking about welding in a patch but leaving the grille vents as remnants that its a series1 Or for sake of saving time and labor, just finding a series 2 hatch without the vents all together since my rear hatch appears to have a giant patch of bondo that is extra thick anyways =( looks like its been there since the early 90s.

Love the Z Oiluj! is that 306 silver?

this is very true, and will be taken into total consideration. i gota factor in time into this. because i can fix a rusty spot, then por15 that to get it out of the way. the rest of the interior will take some time to clean, prep, clean, spray. so that could be addressed later. for sake of not having to buy two products (por15 and epoxy) i could still just por15 the whole area when i get to it as well. would you say for purists or period/era correct restoration-ists, matching the interior to the exterior is not much of a concern? i would like to do the best job i can as far as asthetics and protection thats why. but if i can save money on products and not paint the interior, then why not that is very true. many people make the mistake of stripping a bigger area then they can work on be4 rust starts forming again.

the problem that causes concern for me is a lot of threads that i've read concerning Por15, i've never gotten a solid answer. Whether it be ClassicZcars, the hamb, the samba. there are many that swear by por15, and there are many that claim it has failed them. And although you argue my statement about epoxy primer not being the best corrosion and adherance product. Sooner or later, i believe mother nature will do her duty. no matter what is protecting the substrate. As far as bare un-rusted metal goes, i still believe epoxy primers to be the strongest and best product over a rust encapsulator. It is used to cover bare metal all the time. No one uses por15 and like products as a basis to paint a vehicle. Maybe i was wrong when i said it may stop or encapsulate rust, or convert light rust, but i do believe for clean bare metal, it is the closest thing we will come to a factory E-coat. It is an industry standard to spray a bare panel, or a whole car that has been sand/media/bead blasted with epoxy, not por15. but maybe the comparison between Epoxy Primer to rust encapsulators should not be made. in the end of the day, these products will always be up for debate. but i was not here to argue the fact. i know what I want to do with my car. and thats to restore it as close as possible to factory condition. thats why i mentioned Por15 as not being a complete option for me. small areas of rust sure. But not the entire interior. If i am still ill-informed, feel free to correct me.

Zealous: is your 71 Z in a condition that may not be worth keeping? i plan to: drive my car more. fix all the little things so i know she is reliable. replace all the little things that need replacing. in other words give her all the TLC she deserves.

There is no ignorance in your question at all. The reason why putting por15 in the whole interior isnt an option is because my whole interior is not rusted. I would rather use an epoxy primer that provides superior corrosion protection and adhesion. The por15 is more for converting light rusted areas where lets say, you could not access completely to remove all the rust. And while Epoxy primer can cover up very light rust, i wouldnt risk using epoxy for that. Thats where my option to apply por15 or an equal rust coverter brand to the small areas of rust, then epoxying the rest. Also, Epoxy primer is the closest thing we can get to a factory E-coat (even tho our cars were not in those early days). Does that clear up any hazy questions you may have had? Also, its piece of mind for me knowing that even though you can not see the floorpans etc when they're covered, I like knowing they are painted to match. But at the same time thats why I am asking for the opinions of everyone on what they think would be the best protected and asthetic route.

This topic might appear to have been covered many times before, in many different ways, but in all my reading I feel that there still wasnt one that answered my dilemma So, the thing is, i stripped my interior to bare metal, in preparation for paint and I removed the factory tar sound deadening. And it is not so much that i dont know what to do next, but what i would like is advice and/or opinions on how to achieve the best results as far as protection and appearance goes. I am somewhat lucky enough that my floor pan area is not badly rusted. There are minor areas of rust, but the majority of the floor pan is in tact and needs no major work. So my question is, now that i am down to bare metal what would be the best next step? there are many ways to go about it, no right or wrong option1: i have been thinking about epoxy primering the whole floorpan and interior, then adding an undercoat type material on top of the epoxy (i.e. rhino liner/lizard skin etc), then laying dynomat/sound deadening sheets or spray and leave it as so. and replace carpet option2: i was thinking about laying por 15 (or an equivalent rust converter) on the whole interior on the bare metal, then just attempting to top-coat it to match the exterior, then replace the carpet option3: Lay por15 (or an equivalent rust converter) on small rusted areas only, then epoxy the rest of the interior and floor pan, and then top coat and replace carpet option4: lay epoxy then sound deadening spray with or without topcoat then replace carpet im sure theres a few more combinations i could think of, or i can just redo the factory process which appears to be epoxy primer, topcoat, sound deadening sheets. but por15 the whole interior/floor pan is not an option, thats why i have different processes and options in which I would like to explore Any advice, or opinons are welcomed. All help is very much appreciated, thank you!. :classic:

To add to EScanlon's post, make sure if you use a metal prep solution such as the phophoric acid (which smells strongly like rotten eggs) make sure you surface clean the metal thoroughly with the proper surface cleaner, or else your primers will react to the acid and fail. Self Etching is particularly for bare metal only. and i would really only use it on spot repairs where bare metal is showing. And although Epoxy primer can be sprayed over areas of filler, it should be used over bare metal only because the idea is to protect bare metal. Epoxy primers are formulated to be the closest thing we can get to mimic-ing a factory E-coated car. so if i were you, to make life easier on myself, i would work on each panel from begining to end, one at a time. Meaning i would take the fender for instance down to bare metal then epoxy it, add the filler, sand/shape it, then add the high fill primer, sand it and shape it, then add your seam sealer...and not till im completely done with doing that will i move onto the next panel. if you are trying to sand the whole car down to bare metal at once, you'll be fighting surface rust everywhere. Doing it this way will prevent that. after the whole car is in primer, you can base and clear it all at once. hope this was of any help

i will try to stop by one of these fridays!