rfaranda

Any of you guys (and gals) find your way to Central Alabama, the beers on me!!!

Lesson learned: Don't always trust Autozones testing!!!!!! New alternator did the trick... She's running like a champ. Thanks to everyone who helped us out with this. My son and I are very grateful. Even though it ends up that we wasted A LOT of time on this, the knowledge we've gotten gained is invaluable.

Ok, heres what I got: 1. B disconnected 17.85 2. B direct to Pos. 12.36 I'm headed out for a new Alt....

Sorry, I missed your first post. Yes, I've run new wire from S to battery pos, B to starter and jumped ground to neg. L is showing 12v and the charge light works normally. This is the second battery. I am really thinking the new alt is bad even though they tested it (and I watched). I went back tonight and had them test it in the car and it wouldn't push over 12.33v.... UNTIL they pulled the postive battery cable while testing and it jumped to 14.55v. I'm thinking the voltage regulator isn't detecting the battery properly.

I wish it would be that simple... I took it down to Autozone and had them test it in the car. Theiir tester kept telling us to start the car (and it was running) ....

Just jumped the case / negative terminal... Same results...:disappoin 12.4v +/- at S, L and B... I turn on everything, radio, lights, heater.... It drops to 11.8 +/- and maintains.. I pull the negative cable from the battery, the car stays running and you can hear the alt kick in..

Ok, now I'm royally confused..... The alternator tests fine... It acting like my wife, it puts out but its not exciting. (I know, that was weak) I'm at a loss. Everything at the alternator tests out....

Steve..... Just stepped through the hazard/volt gauge circuit.. My money was on the flasher but it wound up being the steering lock switch... Thanks for the help on that one. Got the alternator out and taking her to get tested now...

Thanks guys. I actually have been reading the Fsm and did run their diags. I definitely have a better understanding of the charging system now. I did get caught up on the L voltage today. Thanks for checking that out again Zed, I feel better about that. At this point the circuit in the car seems to check out. I think I may have gotten a dud alternator. I'm gonna pull it and go have it checked/replaced. Now on to the volt/hazard short. Oh, and a little humor. I pulled the steering column apart to check the steering lock switch and was amazed at what I found. The previous owner apparently had an aftermarket cruise control installed. Seems the arm had broken off so they just tucked it into the column. I couldn't believe it!!! Anyway, thanks for all the guidance.

More info... After tracing everything, I took the Volt gauge out, unplugged the t-connector at the alternator and I'm getting 12v at both points on the connector leadint to the charge lamp and the alternator... Also, when the t connector is unplugged and I turn the ignition to on, the fuel pump starts. It doesnt when the t connecter is attached... I'm starting to get confused looking at the wiring diagram... :stupid:

I mistyped, sorry.... Here's what I get: At the B: 12.49v, S: 12.49v, L: 12v

OK, here's what I've got: Pos->Alternator resistance = .1 But the sense wire with car off ign set to on, I'm getting 12v at the connector.....

SteveJ: Thanks, thats what I was thinking also. I'll let you know what I find... Zed Head: Thanks also.. Yes, the L wire is the blue I was tracing. I haven't checked the voltage on it though, I will.... The charge light is working as you described.

Well, I spoke too soon... Fixed the links and everything checks out. 12.49v at both leads at the alternator... Ground resistence looked good. No charge at the battery.... Started tracing the blue (I believe sensor) wire. Continuity tests out at the back of the volt gauge. Also traced it the passenger kick panel near the fuse box... Its just hanging there with a bullet connector, not connected to anything. If I am reading the wiring diagram correct that should go to the brake light warning relay somewhere under the passengers seat. (ran out of daylight at this point) Would that being disconnected affect the alternator? Thanks

SteveJ, Thanks for the direction. Here's what I've got: -2000rpm, no change in voltage. -Verified its the correct alt. -Fusible link.... BINGO!!!! I get continuity from both wires on the alt to the fusible link.... I get 12.49v to the other end side of the link.... Plugged up, 0 voltage at the alternator... "Wiggle" the brown wire and get a hint of voltage at it...... My son thanks you for the help....