280TurboZX

Yep it blows out fog when started and driven. Plus new radiator is empty. SO up for sale or fix it. May be some stop leak but what Kind works?/

way too funny.

Replaced the radiator with a New one(three core Brass/Copper) from RockAuto.com ($150.00). Perfect fit and looks great, bonus, no more leaks. Made a defrost duct pipe for drivers side(missing when bought car) Took her for a ride and cruised for an hour. Arn't days off fun.(Not)

I did think about selling it before it started costing too much money. Craigslist was on my mind. Good thing I am one of those "Don't be afraid" and dive in and tinker. I could of easily spent over $300.00 to have it looked at or fixed.

I tried those first(re-soldered) and still nothing. SO I turned over the unit and found the curcit board on the back(little-r one) down near the bottom half up about 1 inch or so, Is where I found the loose connections. The wierd thing is my outer Box/covering had that side corner Dented in like it was dropped at one time or another..... Probly the start of the weakend solder joint.

I tore the cover off and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother So maybe I Killed the gremlin.

I tore the cover off my ECU and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother . I also tore out the dash to fix Speaker,Speedo,Clock and radio. I helped the speaker now it doesn't rattle so much. Speedo has an issue in the cable, Clock is just retarded,it has a contacts or something and is a pain. Radio is also a pain, the read out or display doesn't always come on but the radio still works.So I never know what station I'm on. I also found the plug for the re-circulatory air vent was unplugged so the switch didn't work. Now it does. Talk about a day off from work just to spend the day on the ZX

Hey All, I tore the cover off and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother So maybe I Killed the gremlin.

You maybe right on the money. I tore the cover off and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother So maybe I Killed the gremlin.

My 1982 280ZX Turbo has 229,672 miles on it and purrs like a Lion. I wouldn't say Kitten. Sounds meaner. Never been rebuilt yet.

Thanks so far for some input. I've been ripping connectors apart and cleaning them, Even removed ECU, Took apart and visually checked all solder joints and electronic parts. Scraped(To Bare metal) all ground contacts points and screw head bases . Resprayed contact cleaner on the three connections. And now I still have to kick the box to get my pump to operate properly. So now when I turn the key to ON before cranking,my Fuel pump relay starts clicking and I can hear the pump pulsate.Once I hear the relay Stop clicking and the pump goes full cycle(runs striaght for about 5 second,then stop(pressures up)) I know I can turn the key further and crank/start the car. Sounds like I need another ECU box. I have a 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo with Automatic ECU# A18 602 045... Anybody have an extra for sale or give to help out a buddy. Thanks

Hi, I have to kick my ECU with my left foot to get it to let my fuel pump cycle up so my car will start. Other wise when I turn the key to ON before cranking,my Fuel pump relay starts clicking and I can hear the pump pulsate.Once I hear the relay Stop clicking and the pump goes full cycle(runs striaght for about 5 second,then stop(pressures up)) I know I can turn the key further and crank/start the car. Sounds like I need another ECU box. I have a 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo with Automatic ECU# A18 602 045... Anybody have an extra for sale or give to help out a buddy. Thanks

Well I still have an intermitant problem. Seems more likely for the relay to do it's clicking thing more in the morning at first start-up. Once after I give the ECU a bump from my left foot, the relay will stop clicking and I can hear the fuel pump,pump up(about 5 seconds)then I know if I start cranking it will fire.So I have cleaned the three plugs mine has.And used Electric cleaner as well. So maybe I have an internal problemin my ECU and I should replace it. It's very anoying and not very trust worthy. I am almost at wits end and thinking of Replacing the Car. With a simple one. I love it, but would rather walk sometimes. I've replaced Fuel tank(leaked)Fuel Pump(leaked)Spark plugs,Wires,Cap,Rotor,Pump Relay,Mufler and Water pump. Still needs New Radiator but I ain't going to replace that until I get the fuel clicking,thing figured out. Or maybe sell the car for $1000.00 and walk. I found a use ECU on ebay for $75.00 but my money tree is not sprouting this year. So I have no clue what to do. When running right the car is a blast to drive and boy when that Turbo kicks in, WOW. I think too many kicks to the ECU may kill it then I will be thumbing it(walking):tapemouth

Yep, I sprayed all connections with Electric Contact cleaner. And it seemed to help until this morning. While it was running, I jiggled on the wires and at one moment saw my tach/engine take a dive. either still contact points of wires, or like you mentioned possible solder break on circuit board. Reflow sounds like a viable(do-able) idea.

been fighting a clicking fuel pump relay[no run]When lt doesn't click I can drive. But today I did some tinkering and when my relay started clicking I tapped on the ECM near the driverside foot, and it stopped clicking and would run.So I either have faulty wire connection or maybe my box is going bad[internal short] Found a bunch on Ebay for $60-150.