280TurboZX

Yep it blows out fog when started and driven. Plus new radiator is empty. SO up for sale or fix it. May be some stop leak but what Kind works?/

way too funny.

Replaced the radiator with a New one(three core Brass/Copper) from RockAuto.com ($150.00). Perfect fit and looks great, bonus, no more leaks. Made a defrost duct pipe for drivers side(missing when bought car) Took her for a ride and cruised for an hour. Arn't days off fun.(Not)

I did think about selling it before it started costing too much money. Craigslist was on my mind. Good thing I am one of those "Don't be afraid" and dive in and tinker. I could of easily spent over $300.00 to have it looked at or fixed.

I tried those first(re-soldered) and still nothing. SO I turned over the unit and found the curcit board on the back(little-r one) down near the bottom half up about 1 inch or so, Is where I found the loose connections. The wierd thing is my outer Box/covering had that side corner Dented in like it was dropped at one time or another..... Probly the start of the weakend solder joint.

I tore the cover off and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother So maybe I Killed the gremlin.

I tore the cover off my ECU and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother . I also tore out the dash to fix Speaker,Speedo,Clock and radio. I helped the speaker now it doesn't rattle so much. Speedo has an issue in the cable, Clock is just retarded,it has a contacts or something and is a pain. Radio is also a pain, the read out or display doesn't always come on but the radio still works.So I never know what station I'm on. I also found the plug for the re-circulatory air vent was unplugged so the switch didn't work. Now it does. Talk about a day off from work just to spend the day on the ZX

Hey All, I tore the cover off and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother So maybe I Killed the gremlin.

You maybe right on the money. I tore the cover off and started the car(holding the ECU) I pressed on the circuit board in different spots and wallaah.The car died and the pump relay started clicking, I pressed again in the same spot and the clicking stopped and the pump,pumped up. It then would start. I did this numerous times with the same results. So I removed the ECU and hit the solder gun on all the joints around that area. Reinstalled and tried again. But This time the engine didn't die. NO More Clicky. I sure hope that fixed it... Sure sounds like it did, It also ran smoother So maybe I Killed the gremlin.

My 1982 280ZX Turbo has 229,672 miles on it and purrs like a Lion. I wouldn't say Kitten. Sounds meaner. Never been rebuilt yet.

Thanks so far for some input. I've been ripping connectors apart and cleaning them, Even removed ECU, Took apart and visually checked all solder joints and electronic parts. Scraped(To Bare metal) all ground contacts points and screw head bases . Resprayed contact cleaner on the three connections. And now I still have to kick the box to get my pump to operate properly. So now when I turn the key to ON before cranking,my Fuel pump relay starts clicking and I can hear the pump pulsate.Once I hear the relay Stop clicking and the pump goes full cycle(runs striaght for about 5 second,then stop(pressures up)) I know I can turn the key further and crank/start the car. Sounds like I need another ECU box. I have a 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo with Automatic ECU# A18 602 045... Anybody have an extra for sale or give to help out a buddy. Thanks

Hi, I have to kick my ECU with my left foot to get it to let my fuel pump cycle up so my car will start. Other wise when I turn the key to ON before cranking,my Fuel pump relay starts clicking and I can hear the pump pulsate.Once I hear the relay Stop clicking and the pump goes full cycle(runs striaght for about 5 second,then stop(pressures up)) I know I can turn the key further and crank/start the car. Sounds like I need another ECU box. I have a 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo with Automatic ECU# A18 602 045... Anybody have an extra for sale or give to help out a buddy. Thanks

Well I still have an intermitant problem. Seems more likely for the relay to do it's clicking thing more in the morning at first start-up. Once after I give the ECU a bump from my left foot, the relay will stop clicking and I can hear the fuel pump,pump up(about 5 seconds)then I know if I start cranking it will fire.So I have cleaned the three plugs mine has.And used Electric cleaner as well. So maybe I have an internal problemin my ECU and I should replace it. It's very anoying and not very trust worthy. I am almost at wits end and thinking of Replacing the Car. With a simple one. I love it, but would rather walk sometimes. I've replaced Fuel tank(leaked)Fuel Pump(leaked)Spark plugs,Wires,Cap,Rotor,Pump Relay,Mufler and Water pump. Still needs New Radiator but I ain't going to replace that until I get the fuel clicking,thing figured out. Or maybe sell the car for $1000.00 and walk. I found a use ECU on ebay for $75.00 but my money tree is not sprouting this year. So I have no clue what to do. When running right the car is a blast to drive and boy when that Turbo kicks in, WOW. I think too many kicks to the ECU may kill it then I will be thumbing it(walking):tapemouth

Yep, I sprayed all connections with Electric Contact cleaner. And it seemed to help until this morning. While it was running, I jiggled on the wires and at one moment saw my tach/engine take a dive. either still contact points of wires, or like you mentioned possible solder break on circuit board. Reflow sounds like a viable(do-able) idea.

been fighting a clicking fuel pump relay[no run]When lt doesn't click I can drive. But today I did some tinkering and when my relay started clicking I tapped on the ECM near the driverside foot, and it stopped clicking and would run.So I either have faulty wire connection or maybe my box is going bad[internal short] Found a bunch on Ebay for $60-150.

I did some tinkering and when my relay started clicking I tapped on the ECM near the driverside foot, and it stopped clicking and would run.So I either have faulty wire connection or maybe my box is going bad[internal short] Found a bunch on Ebay for $60-150.

I did some tinkering and when my relay started clicking I tapped on the ECM near the driverside foot, and it stopped clicking and would run.So I either have faulty wire connection or maybe my box is going bad[internal short] Found a bunch on Ebay for $60-150.

I bought a FSM on Ebay. A (DVD) for $10.00 and it's the best(cheapest purchased) manual I have ever bought and it's the BEST I ever owned. Boy it shows you how to rebuild everthing on the car,Shows ALL wiring,How to check EVERthing electrical. It covers years from 1971-1983 240,260,280. Wow its the greatest. I thought for $10.00 bucks it would be like a haynes or chilton, But it's like a Full 708 page book for the 1982 model alone. I just hate reading and thought someone on hear might have had the same problem with an easy fix.

I think your right. Now that you mentioned it, I see wear marks on either side of the rear window on the hatch itself. and the holes(4) are located across the lower hatch(2-3inches below glass) about in line where the wiper arm shaft comes through the hatch. That's got to be the answer. I just haven't got a close up look at one that had a louver attached to see the mounting holes..... Thanks for helping me out. I had to plug the hole near the wiper shaft(only one going all the way through) cause when it rained it sent water into the cargo area. Never fun to have wet carpet and puddles of water in the car. Take Care All

Hi sorry I dont own a 240,260or 280z Mines a 1982 280ZX Turbo/Automatic. But maybe you have the answer . Any ideas? I turn the key on(before cranking)and I hear clicking under the dash on the passenger side and hear my fuel pump pulsating. After a few dozen give or take clicks it stops and I hear my fuel pump,pump up and stop,I then can start the car. And occasionally while driving it will go into the clicking mode and die or spit and sputter. I have a new pump.Please tell me a simple fix. I tried a switched hot wire to the pump but no help. Thanks so much.

Any ideas? I turn the key on(before cranking)and I hear clicking under the dash on the passenger side and hear my fuel pump pulsating. After a few dozen give or take clicks it stops and I hear my fuel pump,pump up and stop,I then can start the car. And occasionally while driving it will go into the clicking mode and die or spit and sputter. I have a new pump.Please tell me a simple fix. I tried a switched hot wire to the pump but no help. Thanks so much.

hey Guys I found one($65.00) delivered. No more leaks.Thanks for any help.I also replaced my leaky fuel pump. No More Fumes. Safer ride. Next it's the radiator, boy too bad the PO didn't take better care of this car. But Me being an all original type of guy,I'll get-er done.

Your current engine installed is a Non-Turbo engine,probably from a donor car.The turbo engine's oil filter was mounted at an angle not straight out from the block.The valve cover would also say turbo.(They loved to brag about their turbo)Your car was probably built factory turbo charged but anyone could of stuck in a non-turbo engine. Worst if someone wanted to get creative, a turbo BOOST gauge, Turbo shifter label, To look cool. But besides all that what if stuff. You got a nice car to work with and happy fixin

Could Be. I dont know what the original spoiler would look like. There are four threaded holes on the rear deck lid.

Hey guy's and gal's where does a ZX man find driver side door/window trim? No bodys ever on the 280ZX forum, So I ask You? I have a 1982