yakhopper

Thanks Freez74, Unfortunately, they only have 1 available. Does anyone know of another suplier that might have 2 in stock? Also, still looking for a master rebuild kit. Thanks for any leads, Eric

Thanks for the info Bruce, Defiantly will watch for pitting. Just want the brakes perfect before I fire my girl up. Been working on her for a while and se eshould be back on the road by spring ;0)

Looking to refresh my break system, but can't seem to locate kits for master and wheel cylinders. anybody know of a good suplier? Located in Fresno, Calif. 3-71 240z Any help greatly appreciated Thanks for looking ;0)

Finally got my car back from the body shop, and wanting to add fender mirrors. If anyone has a set avail that they are willing to sell, please let me know. Thanks for looking ;0)

Might take a closer look at the tires ;0)

Thanks for the quick replies, I will check the out in the comming week

Well I have been doing a lot of work on my 71 240 and getting ready to finally put her back together, but really want to have the trans gone through. I have gone through the engine (complete rebuild) rebuilt the carbs (SU type), replaced all bushings on suspension, had complete body re worked and painted, new window seals, and windshield. It's been a long two years, and now I need to go through the stock 4 speed, but am a little hesatent to tackle the job myself. I have worked as a mechanic for several years in the past, and have worked on many different types of automotive and marine engines as well as marine lower units I would like to do the job myself, but I've never worked on a trany and was thinking this might be best to leave to a specialist, question is who knows these and what qualifies them. don't want to go to Aamco and get a headache in the end. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm located in Fresno, Ca. and don't want to travel too far for service, but want it done proper the first time. Will post pics of rebuild after the car is complete. Eric

What about the Cam Oiler Tube, I know someone came up with a great design, but never got a definite response if he was willing to produce. This part seems easy enough to produce, and almost all 2400 motors have seen this fail.

Sorry - read that wrong :stupid: but could still work out a deal if anyone else was intrested.

"Ask your friend if he could coat the inside as well." He is a good friend of mine and I'm sure I could get a fair price for you. As we talked today he seggested also doing other parts as Cermakrome is much easier to clean than pollished aluminum. If there is enough intrest I could look into a group discount on coating, his company does porcilan, ceramic, ceramakrome, plasticoat, sand blast, soda blast, etc., etc.

Thanks ajmcforester, I'll send a pm later this eve - on my way to work right now. Eric

Thanks for the info guys, Being as he is offering to do them for free I guess it's the best way to go. It's nice to have friends in the right places.

Just curious if anyone has done this. I have a friend who owns a coating company and seggested that while I have the head off being rebuilt I give him the exhaust manifold and down pipe to ceramic coat. I have done this on other vehicles and it really kept the heat in check but havent seen any Z's with this done. No performance mods just stock 71 240 with a L24 and E31 head. This will be a daily driver for my doughter and mostly looking for dependability. Also the price is right Eric

I'm in the process of having the head reworked and believe I should replace the head bolts when I reassemble. I have a 71 240 whith a L24 and E31 head. I am having new valves, seats, guides, seals and springs installed so as to allow the use of unleaded without issue but am having questions about the head bolts. Since I can't find the factory originals - what mfgr should I trust? and is this absolutley necessary? Thanks for any info avail. Eric

FYI, The main braces of this part are made of some kind of magniesum so not able to braise without melting, however it apears that J.B.Weld works wonders for this kind of stuff

After having issues with the oil spray tube it looks like I will have to have the cam reground (may as well do valves also). My question is that I have heard of others who have swaped heads with later model motors (L28). After looking in wrecking yards I noticed that the later L28's have internal oiling for the cam. Would these heads work on my L24 and if so what mods may be required. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Eric

Just a thought, When I lived in Colo. (Aurora) my 200sx had the same issues as you are experiancing. Would run rough and have trouble starting and if it got below 15 deg. would not start. After several trips to the dealer I found an older DATSUN mechanic who poped the hood, removed the wire from the temp sensor and the vehicle started and ran without problem. He said this was a common problem with many Nissan / Datsun vehicles from out of the area. He instructed me to do this when it was below 35 deg. and let her warm for a couple min. than replace the wire. I never had a problem after that. Aperantly the problem was in the area of the comp that recieves the signal from the sensor. Not shure this will work for you but worth a try. Eric

Thanks for the heads up, I will be trying another wrecking yard again this weekend. If I am not successful than I will try to order one on line. This has to be one of the most helpful group I have ever met. Thanks, Eric

I am new to this form so I hope I'm doing this right, I have recently started working on a 71 240Z with the original L24. The valves were ticking so I decided to check the clearance. when I removed the cover I imediatley noticed the oil feed tube above the cam followers was bent at the cast brace and the back section of the tube was not connected which obviousley wasen't allowing for proper lubrication of the last 2 followers. My qusetion is since the vehicle has been sitting for many years what could have caused this (possably heat)? And where can I find a part # or more importantly where can I find this part? I have already checked the local wrecking yards but no L24's to be found and the L28's didn't use this tube. Thanks, Eric

Thanks Dave you've been a great help. If you're ever in central Calif give me a shout and dinner is on me. Eric

Thanks again, I really appreciate the help and advise I have recieved here. I will be doing the light mods as I get past other issues. Looks like I have another problem I need to tend to first - The valves have a loud tick so I was going to adjust them but found a problem when i removed the valve cover. The oil feed tube above the cam followers has come off on the end piece and may have caused a flat spot on the cam. I will try to get a pic tomorrow of the damage but the cast part that holds it to the head is also bent. I have looked for a part # but can't find a mention of it anywhere. So I have a couple more questions: 1. Does anyone have a seggestion of where or how I can get a replacement oil feed tube? 2. If the cam needs work should I have the valvers done also? 3. why are January's always so cold and gloomy in Calif.? :disappoin Thanks again, Eric

Thanks again for the great info. Dave, If I'm understanding you correctly the adaptor should work fine in my 71 240. If this is the case will I still have to connect the yellow wire through the switch. Also I will be mainly just changing bulbs and flashers - is there still a need to upgrade the harness? Yes the fuse block and all wires are in great shape. I will however be upgrading the headlights in the future as time and money allows. Eric

Thanks for the insight guys, I'll be ordering the adaptor tomorrow and doing the mod next weekend (weather and shipping permitting). Is there any others mods to improve the electrical system (looking for future projects) that I should seriously concider. I already plan on going with the LED lights but that will have to wait for now. Thanks again, Eric

I decided to swap out the alt in my 240 for the more efficient 280 model but before I ordered the adaptor I read a post about a problem with such adaptor. My questions are: 1. Have they remidied these problems and it is working fine? 2. Is there another (better) way to convert the alt? 3. Would it be best to stay with the original setup at this time (till all the bugs are worked out)? 4. If I do this swap would it compromise the rest of the wiring harness? I would like to keep her mostly stock with only mods that would make her a more dependable as a daily driver as my doughter (18) will likley be driving her also. Thanks for any insight into this swap, Eric

Thanks, I'll be pulling the wheels this weekend to check the brakes and make what I find avail. here. I don't have the desire to do a full restoration so if anyone here has a desire for any of the parts mentioned please send me a message and I'll be as fair as I can be on the price as long as the shipping is covered. Thanks for all the info, Eric