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The repeating theme of this build is definitely "two steps forward, one step back". Whenever i start to work on something, i realize there is much more work required than expected. Remember that nasty weld on the LH Door upper front in the previous post? I thought it just needs a bit of an attack with an angle grinder and some rust protectino primer. Well - once i started grinding, i realized it was a pretty cheap repair from the past, and once some of the covering layers were ground down completely, rust appeared underneath. So it seems like it was just a simple "patch-up" work rather then a proper repair. It's just a small area and i expect it to be no big deal for the bodyshop to fix, but yeah, another small little area with an hour or two of paid labour required. Even if it's only a small area, which most people wouldn't be able to see, it would hurt my heart to just leave it like that. Also it would be just a matter of years before rust bubbles appear in that area. so better fix it now! I kept up my motivation and decided to install the hood tension rods instead (yeah, i thought i'll sand them only before they go to the paintshop). Before: And after: It honestly took me a minute to figure out how this al goes in, but then it was a fairly easy install, even with the hood and hinges already installed: Now i can work with the hood open safely again and do not need any supporting bars or anything and don't have to fear it falling on my head. Obviously, the hood allignment from the bodyshop is completely off now with the tension rods installed. thats why i do this - so it can be aligned and corrected PRIOR to painting. Next i hope to be able to work on the front fender area. some smal tasks are pending there 🙂

Today it's all about the details. I finally found some time to work on the 240Z project again. I wanted to install the door frames but while looking at that area, i noticed the drip rails were a bit messy. Therwe was some surface rust in the unprotected areas and the rail itself was a bit bumpy. So first i got out my trustworthy hammer and a piece of wood to straighten it Nect i decided to whire-weel the entire area to remove the remaining surface rust and old primer which probably covered some more. You can clearly see this area had some rust in the past, which is not uncommon: After that i gave it a good shot of rust-protection chassis primer: So now it's straight, clean and protected. Time to get back to what i had originally planned. quickly install the door frames. Well for some reason, things didn't really line-up. i quickly realized that one of the holes semed off, as there was no way to move the frame further in the direction of the hole. It even had an "extension" which seems to be done in the factory. I didn't really like it so i removed the exess metal and cleaned it (right foto doesn't show the finished solution) plus added primer. Also not sure about that other nasty weld. i might want to clean it to calm down my OCD. Not even sure if it's from factory or not. it's barely visible when the door is installed. During the installation i also noticed that the upper door skin part didnt really seem to be straight: Nothing a bit of directional force with a hammer can't solve. (note these are just dummy door frames for alignment, i will use NOS ones so i don't care if i sprayed primer on them *lol*) And here we go, both door frames are in: Another thing to check off from my task list. And a new one to add (that nasty weld) PS. Sorry for all Photos being 16:9. Not sure how this happened

Yoiu were probably as excited as me to see big and regular updates now that the car is back from the bodyshop. Truth is I have a lot of work and i'm in the final phase of some massive projects which have been going on tor two years at my work. The good thing is, in about two weeks these should be completed and i can go back to my Daily business and should have more time for my project. Nevertheless, i found some minutes here and there to get some stuff done in the recent weeks. 1) The first thing i did is clean some welds and primer all unprotected areas in rust protection weldable primer: I might have gone a bit overboard, but yeah, better safe than sorry. 2) I started preparing the spare Trunk spoiler by sanding it down back to shape and giving it a test fit on the trunk. 3) Test-fit the front grille hood emblem and front bumper. 4) Did some rear-end test fit mock up 5) Also got a bunch of nice magazines from Japan 6) and got basically gifted this nice NOS cigarette lighter from a good friend, but still need to check if it's the correct one for the Z. 7) I also managed to get the old nissan FAST / E-Fast software running again on my computer. so i can look up parts and stuff: 😎 I hope i can go back to work on my cars and drive them in about two weeks. so far this is the to-do list for the body: Oh and i'm also negotiating about a litle Parts lot which i hope i can get. let's see. expect a bit of silence in the next 2-3 weeks, but i hope i can get back full-on after that!

If things turn out well, i have the great honour to meet a few very special Z-related People in a few weeks. For this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, i thought it would be nice to have them sign a part of the Z. Either it will end up in the car or i'll hang it somewhere on the wall. For that i came to the conclusion that the best part would be the glove box door lid, so i decided to prepare on of them properly: First i removed the back cover, locking mechanism and hinge etc from the plastic front cover: With some gentle heat and some soft hammer-taps, the logo came out too: As you can see the surface had plenty of dirt and some mild scratches and fading: So first it was time for a proper wash: Then it was time for a proper plastic clean with my trustworthy "Novus" plastic repair kit: I used Stage 2 for light scratches and stage 3 (clean and polish). To further reduce fading, i decided to pull out the heat gun and use my old "heat treatment" trick (see here) The one big flaw in the middle is still viseble slighty, but ither it's a bigger damage or a manufacturing flaw and i't only visible under the right light. the overall rsult is quite good. So i'll have it (and the gold paint pen) ready to have a special signature on soon, hopefully.

So now that the car is back at my shop. I thought i'd do a little inspection of all the details, to check if i see any need for rework in some areas. Overall i'm super happy. they did the best, especially since they have never seen a 240Z in their shop before my project. Some areas need a bit of work, and the first task of me will be to cover all the bare-metal spaces in rust-protection primer. They wanted to do it but when the trailer was available they weren't able to finish it, so instead they left me two cans of primer to do it myself. I'm happy if i don't have to pay them for something i can easily do myself. And considering it will be a few months in my workshop before going back for the final adjustment, it's a must to protect it against new corrosion. I don't want to describe every photo in detail, so here's just a gallery with random details. On this side the body line has been hammered back in already by the previous bodyshop: Optional footrest reinforcement, as on the japanese cars (that weld needs a bit of a cleanup, to satisfy my OCD). Luckily something i can easily correct) Floorpan reinforcement brackets on the rear, as on the original cars: That's it. I'm now in the mock-up phase of the car, where i have to prepare and test-fit everything and i'll show you some updates soon.

I guess you're right, because i found thin leftovers strips of the KFV panels in the scrap metal box 🙂

Thanks. On the other side previous panelbeater already did it by hammering it back in by hand, as far as i unerstand. I guess it's tricky to stretch shrinked metal again. probably they have to pre-heat it. We'll see when it's back at the shop 🙂 I thought it was worth taking the time to lay everything on the floor for a quick snap. The car looks still more or less the same then it did a few years ago, but now all the details are better and there is no more rust. I still think it's incredible how many parts were replaced 😁 Yeah i guess so. I think they did it this way to cover up the welds from the previous bodyshop and give it the OEM look. Honestly i don't know exactly how they did it, but the results are great. If you ask me.

Those who follow my Instagram already might have noted that the 240Z ist back at my home. The bodyshop have speed up things to "finish" phase 1 of the bodywork. As far as my limited knowledge goes, i have to say they did an excellent job. They spent quite some time getting everything right, finding the required information and aligning with me, whenever needed. Here are some random photos of the process, which i haven't shown you yet: Floorpan replacement passenger side (2nd time, after the first bodyshop messed it up and with the new KFV panels): Done, with footrest installed: Roof installed and dents removed: New fuel lid flap surrounding area (the old lid would not line up with the body, since the previous bodyshop messed something up): US rear side marker holes closed for correct euro-spec look: One of the many random small areas which they had to fix.. Lower door area got a rust repair: Overall all these small little areas took up 600 hours of work. The project is far beyond reasonable, but i still like the idea to properly safe and restore a "rare" euro spec car back to former glory. This is the current state at the Bodyshop: you can see the side bodyline is still missing in the fender and door (previous owner thought it was nice to "clean" it. But Front end body assembled: Yesterday i got it delivered back in a nice closed trailer: Now it's finally back in my workshop Just in case you wonder: These are all (except the rear end and Passenger side front end) Parts that got replaced on the car. So it's safe to say that aroun 50% of the body has been replaced within the last 5 years. But that was worth it. Now the body is almost back to factory spec. May task is now to install all the rubbers, bumpers, spacers, hinges, remaining panels etc, to bring it back to the bodyshop to have the panel gaps adjusted, the side bodyline hammered back in and maybe fix some areas which don't fit. I'll do a walkaround of the car in the coming days and post it here. and i've already started installing some items. so expect some updates soon.

So since i'm working on the R180 diff, a some nice people here pointed out that there's a special Service manual for this. Luckily one was available for sale just that time, along with another book which i saw recently and was missing in my 240Z reading collection: The differential service guide is an Datsun USA made service manual for various R- and H- Differentials by Datsun and is brilliant. It explains the working priciple, the differences of the manuals and obviously, the service. it comes with calculation tables for settings and a lot of background information about the various diff. It's basically an englisih translation of the original Nissan JP factory differential service manual. But it being english makes it much more convenient to understand 🙂 Registered ClassicZcar users can download a digital copy of the english version for free here: https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/engine/differntial-manual-r115/ The second book which i bought, was a Z-book i haven't seen before. The "Dastsun Z Series - the Complete story" by David G Styles. It made me especially curious because the writer was an Englishman, and the cover features an Euro-Spec Z, so my hope was that there was a bit of a focus on the european cars and market, compared to the usual American / Japanese focus. Well i was wrong. It's honestly pretty much bull****. A LOT of the usual (false) Goertz praise for his achievments, a lot of design comparison to Jaguars and Ferraris 250 GTO and really nothing new or interesting when it came to the design, development, production or testing of the cars. Even though the writer mentions a lot of japanese sources on the first pages, it seems that the Japanese had no big influence on this book and rarely (if at all) a japanese name gets dropped. I didn't expect much, but at the end it wasn't even able to fullfill that. Nevertheless, one more for the "nonsense" section of books in my shelve.

Very interesting photo. thanks for sharing. I've never seen such an installation before. It also seems that in your case the bar itself has been welded to the bracket, which is obviously more rigid comparded to the original detachable design. Thanks for your inputs, i appreciate a lot. Here is the example i took for reference. Rear installation plates are welded in, upper ones are only "laid on" (No visible welds or bolts): The Mizukami rollbar claims that it's close to the original design but has some modifications for easier installation and better fitment. The upper side mounting brackets come with the three holes for the inner wheel well bolts you mention. and including the three bolts on each side: This (terribly google translated) installation manual from the Factory race and rallye preparation "yellow book" shows that the also the upper mounts should get welded, if i get that right. As shown in the Photo by Alan. Unfortunately it is not very well visible in the upper left (black) picture how it is installed, but if i look at the picture in the original Print, it seems to be welded, as in Alans photo. Anyway, as Alan mentioned, i think there were different ways to install those and everybody came up with their own solution. Many probably never had or didn't read the intsallation manual either. Overall the fitment of the Mizukami rollbar is very nice, and i like the way they designed it. I guess it's close enough to the original design to convice the MoT guy to approve it as an original rollbar. Otherwise it can be quickly removed by it's smart design. Overall i like it a lot. If you want to have it closer to the original design you can of course close the three holes and weld the bottom plate to the inner wheel well, that should fix the main difference.

My original Front grille was a bit bent in some areas, had rusted bolts and the original outer vertical brackets were beyond repair. I really tried my best to save it, but somehow the results never really fulfilled my expectations. The vertical Aluminum brackets were worn out, i wasn't able to find the long mounting bolts in an original look and it all felt very fragile and "loose" when assembled. So when i recently stumbled across the resurrected classics reproduction grille, i thought i'd give it a try. Today it arrived, so lets' have a closer look at it vs the OEM grille. On the first glimpse lit looks very good, down to all the small details. like the bends and shapes of the edges on the fins, down to the way it's assembled with that long bolt in the vertical brackets. Also those mounting brakets on the side are very close to the original ones: The main difference is that this one is made of all-steel, whil the original is made out of steel fins with aluminum vertical brackets. I didn't weight them, but holding them in the hands at the same time, i couldn't really feel any huge difference as the main weight is in the steel fins anyway. Another small difference is that the original outer mounting brackets are originally riveted to the vertical aluminum brackets, while here they are spotwelded (since here everything is from steel). It's of course not original, but it gives it a smoother look and more rigidity. Also note the square vs oval mounting hole of the bracket. As you may know, the grille came in different shapes over the years. I have this odd one where the top three fins are long (as usual) but then the 4th is extra-short, for whatever reasons, before the three regular short ones come. I think i will cut my resurrected grille with a dremel tool to get the original look. So far this seems to be a pretty solid alternative to the original damaged grille. I know there are other replicas, and used original ones to buy, but this looks like a good solution to me. The few grams in extra-weight and the minimal visual differences to the original will most probably never be spotted by anyone, while the improved rigidity and absence of rust definitely make up for it. Once the Car is back in my workshop, i have to test-fit it and see how it looks and fits and if i'll shorten that 4th fin.

Today marks a bit of a milestone: the 240Z frame / Body / Shell is more or less completed. The rollbar and all the accessories (optional passenger foot bar, etc.) are fitted. And all the panels are installed: The car got new floorpanes, new front inner fenders, rear quarters, rear inner and outer wheel wells, new frame rails, new inner and outer side steps, new roof, a complete new rear-end, new seat-rail mounts, and much more. Many small areas like alle the little brackets got fixed and rectified. I think i can say the car is as rust-free as possible. In the next few photos, you can find some details of how the rollcage was installed, as some were intersted how i installed it. I hope i got it right and close to the factory setup. Welds from the bottom side: Bolts from the other side (inside the inner rear wheel well): So now? They'll deliver the car back to my own workshop, so i can install all the locks, spacers, rubber-dampers, trim, etc. before it goes back for final gap-adjustment and to get the sideline into the doors, etc. Once the car is back in my place, i'll take a closer look at it and share the photos with you. On the first glimpse i'm very happy with their work. but there are still some areas to fine-tune and i'm sure we forgot some small things which i will figure out once the car is back in my place. Meanwhile the next project is already waiting at their shop. A one of four known-to-still-exist Bentley Airline. Something in a slightly different category with wood frame and all.

Great, thanks for sharing. I wasn't even aware this exists. It seems to be more or less the english version of the japanese book shown above, covering the same topics and differential types (R and H versions). Luckily i just found an english hardcopy version for sale and grabbed it. But also the digital version will be very helpful so long. Hat tip for the input to you guys. You just got to love this community 🙂

THanks for you rinput guys, i appreciate a lot. I will try my best and take my time. Also i have the original FSM and the japanese Differential service manual, so i will also try to follow the step-by-step guidance in there.

Over the easter holidays, i had some hours time to work on my project again. First thing i noticed on the Subie R180 Diff, which i bought recently, was that it most probably got painted at some point. A quick scrub with the wire brush made the original silver surface appear again: Same on the Propeller shaft flange: Then it was about time to remove the nasty grease and dirt buildup around the seals: And then give the whole housing a healthy two-hours of wire-wheel peeling: Right: Original Datsun diff, left: Subie diff. Notice the different flange adapters: Surprzingly, the datsun part came off quite easy. While the subie thingy required a puller tool setup. Worked well though: Here we are now. ready to get seals replaced. further cleaning, rust-protection repaint and then assembly everything. Hope i find time again soon to finish this part.

Just a very quick update from the Bodyshop: I got some photos of the Mizukami Auto OEM optional rollbar replica testfit: Looks good on the first glimpse, but i will go and check out the car close-up in two weeks and see the progress on the other bodywork too.

This weekend i was at a swiss Archive place of automotive history. The source of many Experts which judge historic cars and make the FIVA ID cards (hsitoric vehicle authenticity proof), etc.. A very nice place. I was suprised however to find a book about Nissan where goertz has signed the cover during a visit. I forgot to take a photo, sadly, but will visit again. Obviously the experts (in this case they were judges and cars-selectors at all the major global concours d'elegance, so they definitely have some knowledge about historic cars and designers, but the usual lack of japanese cars knowledge) had the opinion that Goerzt designed the 240Z. I collected a few documents to tell them the truth. During my hunt for a few things to prove it, i realized that the original signed letter by Nissan has never been broadly published. Only a transcript of it, without theofficial header, signature, etc. So here we go. It can be found in the german book "Autos die geschichte machen - Datsun Nissan Z-ZX-ZXT" I wouldn't say the book covers the story fully correct, but at least the copy of the original letter is nice: Special thanks to Florian for reminding me where i can find it in my documents 🙂 Also Florian has researched a lot on this topic and you can find all about Goertz and the Z (and involvment in other cars he claimed to be his design) on his special readworthy website only about this topic: http://www.graf-goertz.de/

Today i got a special delivery from Japan with some rare NOS items. I've never been actively searching for these, since i knew they're sold for astronomic prices and are no different from what i already have. But then this nice set popped up for a fair price, so i had to get it of course. 1) A NOS NISMO 10 anniversary steering wheel. It's a factory re-issue from 1884 from the Datsun / Nissan Competition steering wheel, to celebrate the 10 year anniversary of NISMO. 2) A NOS NISMO 10th annivesrary shift knob of the same origin. what make the two NISMO parts a bit special are the fact that they come in the orignal box / Packing and have never been installed before. 3) Additionally i got a nice NOS Choke cable today, which my man Stefan has been storing for me since a while and today we finally met to swap some parts. Thanks mate! 4) And i also got a bunch of taillight panel plastic clips. which i realized were missing and the previous owner put some sheet metal screws there instead. Those are important for my panelbeater to make the right holes and align the rear-end in the bodyshop. Luckily those were still available from Nissan.

So, today i had to bring the bodyshop some parts to adjust the fitment and panel gabs of some areasy and got the chance to check out the latest progress. First the outer LH wheel arch got fitted: At the moment they're working on reinstalling the OEM rear quarter panel: And t hey also created and installed those Floor pan reinforcment panels that came on the cars originally: Now i got some homework: According to the parts manual, the taillight panels are installed with plastic rivets. The upper panel around the trunk lock came without holes. If i look at thetaillight panels the holes seem to be way to big for plastic rivets and i remember that one had metals crews installed. so it was probably a hack-job done by a previous owner. Before we start to drill holes, i'd like to know the original hole size both in the taillight panel and the trunk lock panel. can anybody help me with these numbers? It would be highly appreciated, so we can get this car back to Factory specification. Thanks and cheers.

You can find him on facebook and instagram: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61553353143010 Thanks guys for the link. i will consider this one. Appreciate your inputs a lot.

Recently i saw a new manufacturer "Eingeered 3D" Pop up, which sells these 240Z reproduction fuseboxes. Long-time owners know that the original tends to melt in some areas where fuses might cause overheating due to bad connectinos or moddifications over the years. so i had planned to restore mine to avoid such failures in the future. When i saw this kit for sale, i thought i'd give it a try and see which route i go. The kit is a three piece set and each one can be bought individually. the Bottom plastic part, the clear top cover with the prints and the two-piece lock button clip: The quality and fitment is great, but the surface (especially of the button clip) is a bit rough and seems more of a 3D print than the original plastic injection molding. Also the black base piece has some kind of structure which the original one doesnt have. Maybe it can be sanded away, but it seems like a bit of work to geth the completely flat original surface. I'm not sure yet if i'm going to use it, but nevertheless, it's nice tht somebody came up with such a product after all.

So, with the recent progress on the chassis and body, i thought it's time to kickstart some long-pending projects. One thing i had in mind for a while was to fix the differntial. It was not really broken but i never liked the red colour which the previous owner applied to it everywhere. also the upper plug was completely stuck, there were some strange rubber bumper-things added in some places, the breather vent was closed with some kind of wax or whatever this was and the mean seal was leaking. It's an original European 3.9 R180 Open Differential as standard on all 5-speed Manual Z's (= all european spec cars). I thought when putting in the work anyway, why not upgrade to a limited slip? First of all i disassembled the old one to confirm it's a 39:10, to see what shape the internals were in. I thought i'd give it a test to remove paint with paint stripper from the diff cover. that worked out, but somehow the metal below looked strange. like the outer layer had chipped off, or someone had added a silver layer of powedercoat. I thought i better not use it on the car. At the end, i found a good Subaru Clutch type R180 "K" LSD differential for a reasonable price. so i thought i just go for the whole swap. It's from a WRX STI, and also an 3.9, because it's considered the best "all round" ratio for a street driven Euro-spec 5-speed transmission setup. The only thing you need to do is to install some drive shaft adapters, and swap the propeller shaft flange. Of cour'se it's recommended to replace all the seals and stuff while at it anyway. Left Subaru LSD, right side Original Datsun (Hitachi) Open differential: You can see the big "K" on the Subaru differential which usually differentiates the Subaru diffs from the datsun ones. I also collected various parts. And had bought a cheap kit in the past, so i have all the parts to get them both back together. The subaru one will get the full treatment with all the OEM parts and Keamari drive shaft adapters. The Original Datsun one will get the cheap parts treatment, just to make sure it doesn't leak while in storage. Here's a closer look at the subie diff, Kameari shaft adapters and the NOS parts: And here the original / Repladed parts and additionally some cheap seals. I hope i find some time to get it done soon. I also plan to repaint the Subaru diff, while at it anyway, but need to see how to do this best, first. And i have some more exciting news soon.

Indeed. Nowadays they're sought after cars, but back then they were just cheap and fun sports cars. So most youngsters who got one of those secondhand didn't invest much for repairs and had it done cheaply. If you look closesly at the rear quarter in the background on this photo, you also see the approx 2cm thick layer of Bondo that was applied on the outside of the rear quarter after a repair:

Last week i got a blurry photo from my Panelbeater, asking me to visit them again, since they had revamped work in my Car. I thought the probably had done a few welds and wanted to discuss the next steps. I couldn't have been more wrong. When i turned up, i quickly realized they had been quitely working on the car for the last few weeks and made huge progress! The car even got it's own dedicated workspace now in another building, which they set up only to finish the project without having to move stuff around all the time. They have increased the manpower and got a new teamleader and they seem to push things a bit now. Which i'm more than happy to see. So today i realized they had completely replaced the outer and inner side steps on the RH side. The previous Bodyshop already did this once, but he made all the panels himself since no good replacements were available back then. Since the new green KVF panels are much closer to the original ones (and strangely fit much better on this side than they did on the other side), they replaced it all again and improvad a few areas. On the RH side, the floorpans were finished and the seat rails installed back. They also installed the Japanese Footrest, which is designed for RHD cars, but also fits nice on LHD ones. On my input they also installed the OEM-style "reinforcement-cups" (thanks for showing me these, guys!), on the opposing side of the floorpan. The marked area got fixed later. The previous bodyshop had cut it for whatever reason (probably to install the floorpans) and never fnished it properly. The original battery tray was not too bad, but a bit messed up to be fair, so they replaced this one too. (picture still shows the old one): They also realized that the previous panelbeater has done a bad job around the Fuel filler area, so they reconstructed everything from scratch. You can tell quite a bit of work went into this. (and they also re-did the whole inner part from scratch!). The cas filler door now closes very flush: Aside from a dozen of small areas (which are super time consuming), they also prepared my replacement NOS rear quarter panel, as the original one had a ton of bondo and filler on it from pevious rust repairs. They fixed a transport-damage dent, closed the US-spec rear side-marker hole and modified the C-pillar Vent / logo area from "Series 1" to the newer version. Here is the C-pillar air vent outlet which they removed from the original rear quarter (see hole and bondo on the original rear quarter in the background) and installed on the new quarter panel: The new taillight cover clips and mounts got installed: Then the big work began: The roof skin transplantation. Since the original frame was quite good, they just sanded it down and painted it with rust protection and went for a skin-only replacement, which makes sense. I think one should only cut down the original structure if absolutely necessary. Then they went to work at the rear quarter. It was in quite good shape underneath, so they just cleaned it, removed some surface rust and painted it with rust-protection as well. The Outer wheel arch however was a different story. You can see how many repairs happened here in the history of the car. Almost like the rings on a tree... This is the master at Work when i just arrived. you can see the roof is ready to get welded back in, and the rear quarter subframe has also been prepared. Next up is the replacement of the wheel arch before the quarter panel goes back in. After that it looks "finished" but then the Rollcage needs to go in and all the small cosmetic details and gaps need to be aligned and fixed so it will take some time Also the original bodylines, which a previous owner "cleaned" need to be hammered back in. All these little details require a lot of work and skilled masters of their craft. but will be well worth the result. Maybe not financially. but the fact i am "saving" a messed up car and bring it back to original glory is worth more to me. I'm super excited about the progress and really looking forward to my next visit mid march after they return back from their well deserved skiing-holidays. Oh and i have some exciting news from my side too. so stay tuned for another nice update this week.

Over the past few weeks, i collected random parts from various sellers, which were up for sale cheap or which i was looking for specifically for my build. Let's have a closer look. First of all, Some nice parts for the airbox restauration (Stickers and SU-carb insulators): Then also got a bunch of OEM Bulbs for the dome light: Had to test if my restored dome light works nicely with the new bulb, which it does. Excellent. Found a set of Print "Cliches"- Those are basically negatives used in a print-press back in the days: Will also work nicely as stamps, if you want so 🙂 Also got this OEM NOS Brake repair kit. It only list Skylines and the Laurel C130 on the mark, but i double checked th enumber and it should also fit the S30: Then i got two steelies, which were almost for free. I probably won't use them on my car, but since i already had two, i have a full set now, which makes it easier to sell them, and or use them. The Production date also fits, so that's a pro. You can see the on ein the picture is slightly dented, but easy to repair. Then: Got this super-wobbly OEM front spoiler. It was only 20 bucks and not sure if it is salvageble. But i think a pro might maybe fix it with some warm temperature and bending, but let's see. The reason why i bought it, is because it's probably the only one which i've ever seen where the mounts are not Corroded (yet) inside the rubber and has bloated it up. I'm not sure yet what i've going to do with this, but i thought i better secure it, as those original lips have become rare. Even if i don't need it, it makes a funky looking moustache at my garage wall 🙂 Oh and also got these books. The left one from ebay (which cought my interest because of the euro spec Z on the cover), and the right one from my Mate Florian. While flipping through the book on the left (which came from america), had this photo inside from the previous owner of the book. On the back it was noted that it was taken at Christmas 1998 🙂