GIchiro

View Advert Complete Electromotive ignition, speedhut gauges New , never installed electromotive ignition with Hoke performance trigger wheel kit/damper, set up for megasquirt pick up. Also speedhut gauges and skillard gauge pod mounts. Prices vary depending on what you want. Advertiser GIchiro Date 12/09/2023 Price Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 1973 240Z hood 1973 240Z hood buyer will have to pay shipping/insurance Will have numerous other parts coming available as I have sold the Z sadly. Advertiser GIchiro Date 11/02/2023 Price $100 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Numerous Z parts I have numerous Z car parts available to include: Complete wiring harness (bought from Wayne Sherman? years ago) R200 non-LSD with all new bearings (Japanese bearings) R180 which replaced with WRX and had no problems Rear tail lights Front strut spindles Disc brakes/calipers Rear drum brakes/backing plates plated vent or fuel line (front to rear) Autotwirler pro, set up to mount 1973 240Z at front bumper brackets and rear bumper mounts Numerous other items email for pics donaldvieira@comcast.net Prices are market rate, unless you purchase everything Thanks, GI Advertiser GIchiro Date 10/22/2021 Price Category Parts for Sale

-I have everything painted. -Install should not be more than an hour? Thanks, GI

I have the rear brake lights in/wired. How much time does it take to install the brake light/license plate bezels that have the little plastic rivets? Thanks, GI

-Is the relay panel grounded by it's mount to the inner kick panel? -I am having starting issues, used the hard start relay, been starting fine for 2 days and now just click at the solenoid. -I have a 25amp fuse for the hard start relay and it is blowing them . -Battery is new and 12.7 volts. -This electrical system is killing me. Thanks, 'GI

Yes, he fooled the hell out of me. He was on the cover of magazines and seemed so passionate. He was meticulous about details, except for my sons car. One drama after another. He swore his painter was the best when I stated I would have someone in central, CA do the paint/body. The car has to be repainted because the bondo is cracking under the paint on the hood and many areas were not addressed as discussed. I even bought a rotisserie and offered it o the body guy so he could get the difficult, but rust prone areas. He refused and even after taking the car back 2 times, not done. As a last resort I called the BAR. They investigated and recommended a full refund. Funny thing is, the items not completed that I paid for, as well as the incomplete body/paint are more than the full refund of over 40K. I may not see a penny but, I will hold a picket sign in front of his shop and show everyone the garbage job he did. As well as talk to the DA about probable fraud/theft charges, because there were items not returned/suspicious double charges/etc. I will also send everything to all the magazines /clubs. Perhaps his ego, or the possibility of jail will make him think about doing the right thing to avoid this.

That is awesome. Thank you. GI

No sir. Only if my case goes to court will I divulge the company/owner since the records will be public record. I am hoping the owner accepts responsibility/man's up for 6 years of ....lies/deception/poor workmanship/taking original parts and not returning despite my many requests. As well as wanting another 10,000$ and not having even completed the work I had already paid for.

Well I may have it solved. -Went to check all the grounds/hard start relay etc. -Turned over the engine and the starter kept running, even with the ignition off and key removed. I had to take off the + batter cable. -Placed in the original starter, started right up, no starter bendix issue. -Did a research on the part number on the starter, being the Z car guru I hired to restore the car has taken every short cut possible to maximize his profit. Low and behold he put in the Auto Zone type starter (16584) garbage!! -I am just disgusted with this guy. Should I have to go the litigation route, he will be exposed for the dirt bag he is because the BAR report will be public knowledge. Thanks, GI

I will tonight and report back. Thanks, GI

It is all like new, with electrical contact grease too. I have confirmed continuity with an ohm meter from the grounds back to the body and to the starter.

I have the gear reduction starter and all was well for about 1 month after taking the car back. -One day the battery would not turn the starter over and I was at 4 volts. Battery was new and needed charge for 3 days which is alot for this type of battery. -Load tested ok. -I made a hard start relay 30/40 amp relay. -The car will not turn over w/o the hard start relay. -When the car does turn over the starter is still turning over for a couple seconds, most of the time. It doesn't happen every time. -Starter is new? -II also have the MSA upgrade alt/diode. I have 14.2 volts at idle. -Is that too high? Thanks, GI

No prices on his site that I could find. Looks like a meticulous guy

If you don't mind, what does it cost to have that gentleman build a 3.1 like that? I paid Rebello 7,500 for a 3.0 less carbs/manifold (I had WCR setup bought and tuned for the motor). He did break in the motor on his dyno.

Trying to get information from the engine builder (Rebello) and the z car specialist I hired to restore/build/tune the car has been a disaster for the last 6 years. I am not going to name anyone unless it goes to litigation at this point. The distributor is stock (as I was told by the tuner/Z car specialist), the points are used pertronix and a MSD blaster coil. Previously I had a Mallory vacuum/mech advance with mallory coil. But when you wait over 5 years for your engine to be dynoed/installed the diaphragm can get dry and not function properly. I also have Bill's racing velocity stack covers and K & N filters on the way for everyday use.

I think having greater control over the timing through the rpm ranges may be best. Over the top. Probably not but over cautious, yes.

The carbs are a little rich at idle 12.8:1, so I need to do some jetting too. But, for what I paid, I feel a stock dist. was a shortcut.

No vacuum adv. All mechanical from stock dist. I had a Mallory dist. but the vacuum adv. pot had some issues while waiting almost 6 years for the motor (not Rebello's fault, but the company contracted to restore the car). With triples is there a base timing for idle that is different from the stack setting?

Hello everyone. -I have a 3.0 motor that red lines at 7,200 rpm with triple mikuni's -I do not like the fact the tuner used a stock distributor and set the base timing at 20 degrees. The idle is not the best. -So I am going to do the electromotive XD200 programmable ignition with Hoke perf. trigger wheel/mount/etc. -Are there any timing recommendations from idle throughout the rpm range to 7,200 rpm? Thanks, GI

Good idea Capt. I will do the contact cleanup and test outside of car

SO I have 1 horn working now (adjustment screw) but the second horn would not work. I took it apart and it has a set of points in it. So I adjusted the screw all the way in but cannot get the points to separate. Are the points supposed to have some separation?

oh I know now. I took those apart and used a Crocus cloth and cleaned things up, bore brushed the bushings and synthetic grease. Good to go now. They weren't too bad. Thanks, GI

Thank you so much. Yes, I cleaned the bronze bushings well. I also bought felt washers and soaked in swepco 80-90 lube. They move well now. Thank you for the crank arm tip. I will do the clothes pin clip test first. I sure appreciate it. GI